Ruger GP100 or S&W 686

Depend on the model, in my herd the best trigger stock belong to my Super Redhawk Toklat 454 Casull, it's even smoother than my 627-8 both in DA and SA...
Looking forward to test the trigger of my new to come S&W Model 69 44 mag... JP.
 
I own a gp100 and my father owns a 686. I shoot far more than my father, so I've added a spring kit for the whopping 12 bucks and the approx 35 mins it takes to install it and a fiber front sight. I love the way the gp100 looks, I love the way it shoots, and I love the trigger in it now. ive put everything I can get my hands on through it and it runs like an absolute champ....BUT!!!! as far as after market accessories go the gp100 is VASTLY lacking in this department. I had a friend in the states make me a custom kydex holster, I had to search hi and low for comp III speed loaders and pouches only to find that safari land is basically the only people that sells speed loaders for them. I shoot IDPA/IPSC with mine, and as such I've wanted to buy an extra cylinder and have it cut for moon clips, but alas, not even ruger can send me one (and yes i know the gun and cylinder have to fit together by a gunsmith) I've also had a bit of a time finding people that can even cut a cylinder for moon clips. moon clips however are simple to find for some reason.

Now, the 686 has a better stock trigger by far, and i know after market accessories are fairly easy to find, but its god ugly. it looks like the red headed step child that was beat with an ugly stick for years on end, and as far as im concerned its uncomfortable. I've heard great things about them, but i just couldn't....pull the trigger on one..so to speak lol.

TLDR: GP100 is better unless you plan for any sort of mods. in which case id still buy the gp100...but be warned about it.

Side note-the gp100 match edition is not worth the extra money. you can buy a spring kit for 12 bucks and a fiber front sight for cheap also. unless you must have the engraving on the side dont even look at it.
 
In the 4.2 length, for me, the Ruger points better, especially the Match Champion. Which would be my first choice between the 2.
 
Never owned a GP 100 but have owned 4 Smiths, 2 of them being 686's. The older ones are bulletproof, the newer ones are good too, but as others have mentioned QC is a little spotty compared to the Ruger guns (that said I have seen a number of Rugers recently with issues oit of the box). I find the S&W has more elegant lines and feels much more refined than the Ruger.
 
Only thing I hated about the GP 100 was the fat across the back grips.

The pounding from the area of the frame knuckle gave me some bad nerve pain until I sourced a thinner grip, more like an SP101 style.

For me I stick with S&W because the wider variety of aftermarket grips let me find something I love rather than something I merely tolerate.

The DA on the GP was a longer pull, but mine was lighter than any stock Smith, and more controllable

I shoot SA only, though, and out of the factory they are both similar enough, as I recall

Been tempted by a Match Champion GP100, but I don't need another 357

Though if that new 44 special version had a Canadian legal barrel (boo on you, Ruger), I just might get weak.
 
J have a 686 No Dash 105.14MM former US Custom Gun and a Ruger GP-100.

The Smith is stock with a great trigger.

The Ruger has hammer and trigger shims installed with a lighter trigger return spring and mainspring. The cylinders on the Ruger are now all .358. Out of the box the cylinders were way to tight. <.357.

The Ruger weighs LESS than the Smith. The trigger is as smooth as the Smith. Both are great.

The Ruger front sight is an easy change and it now sports a FO.

I prefer the Ruger over the Smith. To be fair there is not an ounce of sunlight between either pistol. The Smith has the benefit of being an older version. I doubt Smith quality today matches that of yesterday.

Buy whichever gun you like the best. The Ruger will likely need some low cost finishing but hey it is a Ruger and you expect that. The Smith might be perfect it might not be. If you can find yourself a 4" former US Custom gun that is registered restricted if you can. They are out there. I have one and one other member at our club has one.

Take Care

Bob
 
I love both my stock GP100 and 686-3. No trigger job needed. Both triggers smoothed a bit over time. Not a big fan of spring kits, they just make the gun ammo sensitive.
Better train your trigger finger to squeeze a stiffer trigger.
 
easyrider604 said:
I love both my stock GP100 and 686-3. No trigger job needed. Both triggers smoothed a bit over time. Not a big fan of spring kits, they just make the gun ammo sensitive.
Better train your trigger finger to squeeze a stiffer trigger.
Click to expand...

My Ruger GP 100 I use in IDPA has the spring kit in it along with hammer and trigger shims. The gun has been flawless using Win, Rem, Fed, Dom, Tula and CCI primers. Rugers are nice guns but kit guns are the best way to describe them. The biggest issue with the GP-100 are the cylinder bores which are typically less than ideal for shooting lead or plated bullets. I had thee that would not allow a .356 bullet push through them. The forcing cone also wants cutting to 11 degrees. To say most are GTG out of the box might be a step to far. Otherwise excellent revolvers. I prefer mine over my 686 No Dash. About a half oz. lighter to boot.

Take Care

Bob
 
Owned both...several versions of each.

Ruger has a double action trigger pull that increases in weight as you pull till firing. Smooth but this stacking isn't ideal.
It is a well built, accurate gun.
Less aftermarket support for sure...especially when shopping used for goodies/holsters etc.

The SW has an excellent double action pull and can be made downright magic.
Older 586/686 are superior in every way as QC and build quality was much better.
Unlimited aftermarket support and availability.

Looks and feel are personal and my opinion is irrelevant.

My 2c worth sir
 
Spring kits helpful, but a diy trigger job is easy and cheap. Just get the stones and patience. Makes a noticeable difference. Brownells sells arkensas stones. My diy was as good as a smiths job both visually and trigger feel wise.
 
I haven't owned a S&W, but have had a GP100 in MC form for about a year now - the MC has some polished internals and a shimmed hammer (along with some real nice comfortable wood grips) right from the factory, that along with a set of lighter springs from Wilson Combat I've added, makes for a very very nice shooter. Gotta love how easy it is to swap those springs on the Ruger too.
 
I just bought that same gun here in Ontario. For me the 686 wasn't really even in the same ballpark for two main reasons and one secondary: 1) The grip and overall feel in hand was better for me with the GP. I have larger hands and the 686 felt really tiny comparatively. 2) The build quality seems a lot sturdier and I didn't like the Smith's sideplates. The secondary reason is I much prefer the look of the Ruger with the nicer looking underlug and the way the hammer area is a bit more "squared off" if you know what I mean.

I may or may not accessorize mine with a Hogue grip and HiViz front sight. I haven't yet decided. Probably won't until I shoot it a bit. If I manage well out to 25 yards, I likely won't bother.

I can't wait to get this thing home.
 
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Kosmonument when you get your new gun do check the cylinders. Rugers tend to have very tight chambers. Reaming all the cylinders out to .358 will have a major impact on accuracy. If you shoot lead bullets have your forcing cone cut to 11 degrees, it will come cut to five. I love my 4.2". Accuracy improved noticeably after I had the work done.

Take Care

Bob
 
Bob,

Can you recommended a smith, preferably one you have used on your own pieces, who can do a quality cylinder throat reaming and cut an 11 degree forcing cone?

I assume you meant cylinder throat reaming, is this correct?

Would you recommend the same job on a 686-3?

A smith who can do the job reasonably quick and reasonably priced would be very welcome.

thanks much
 
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