Ruger GP100 or S&W 686

I like my 686 it works great with Pachmayr Professional Grippers, but the GP100 factory grips are too big for me to handle.
If the GP100s had the grips like the ones that Chadeech has on his gun I would still own one.
I haven't found either guns as smooth as my target M 19, 357.
 
easyrider604 said:
Bob,

Can you recommended a smith, preferably one you have used on your own pieces, who can do a quality cylinder throat reaming and cut an 11 degree forcing cone?

I assume you meant cylinder throat reaming, is this correct?


Would you recommend the same job on a 686-3?


A smith who can do the job reasonably quick and reasonably priced would be very welcome.

thanks much
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Yes in the cylinder throat.

Joe Dlask is in your area. I am sure he could do it for you. I am a bit out of touch as to who does decent work in your area. Contact Slavex on this site. He should be able to direct you to someone who could do it for you. Easyrider here on this site does a lot of work on his guns and may have reamers and be willing to do it for you. The reaming on the throats and forcing cone does not take much time to do and well worth doing.

I am not that familiar with the Smiths. I wold think the forcing cone for sure would need to be cut to 11 degrees. The easiest way to check your cylinder throats on your Smith is to just take a bullet (Lead .358 or plated .357 and see if you can push them through with a pencil if you can you are good to go otherwise they should be reamed.

Let us know how you make out.

Take Care

Bob
 
Canuck44 said:
Yes in the cylinder throat.

Joe Dlask is in your area. I am sure he could do it for you. I am a bit out of touch as to who does decent work in your area. Contact Slavex on this site. He should be able to direct you to someone who could do it for you. Easyrider here on this site does a lot of work on his guns and may have reamers and be willing to do it for you. The reaming on the throats and forcing cone does not take much time to do and well worth doing.

I am not that familiar with the Smiths. I wold think the forcing cone for sure would need to be cut to 11 degrees. The easiest way to check your cylinder throats on your Smith is to just take a bullet (Lead .358 or plated .357 and see if you can push them through with a pencil if you can you are good to go otherwise they should be reamed.

Let us know how you make out.

Take Care

Bob
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I will check my cylinder throats before proceeding. Thanks much, Bob
 
Canuck44 said:
Kosmonument when you get your new gun do check the cylinders. Rugers tend to have very tight chambers. Reaming all the cylinders out to .358 will have a major impact on accuracy. If you shoot lead bullets have your forcing cone cut to 11 degrees, it will come cut to five. I love my 4.2". Accuracy improved noticeably after I had the work done.

Take Care

Bob
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I don't plan on modifying the cylinder. I have spoken to a couple of people with the same revolver and they have no such issues.
 
Kosmonument said:
I don't plan on modifying the cylinder. I have spoken to a couple of people with the same revolver and they have no such issues.
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Check them before you make a decision. Because Ruger gets them tight once in awhile I can assure they don't always. Did you ask them if they ever tried pushing a .358 bullet through their cylinders? Rugers are known to be kit guns for a reason.

Take Care

Bob
 
My biggest issue with new Smiths are the barrels. It’s hard to find one that is not canted or one with a centred muzzle crown :(
 
Yeah one of the things I've heard about S&W lately is that the workmanship just isn't the same as it used to be. Me, I don't know enough to be able to tell ya. But I will say that the GP100 I just took home has a great fit and finish despite what the internet says about these things.
 
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All of this talk about lacking QC in recent smiths is making me glad I bought an older no dash 686. I don't have a basis for comparison, but I haven't seen any issues mentioned here on mine.
 
Kosmonument said:
Yeah one of the things I've heard about S&W lately is that the workmanship just isn't the same as it used to be. Me, I don't know enough to be able to tell ya. But I will say that the GP100 I just took home has a great fit and finish despite what the internet says about these things.
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Have you bothered to check your cylinders yet? Any rub on your hammer due to the fact the gun needs shims to center the hammer. Pretty common issues with the Rugers. Was with mine and the company's that make shims for the trigger and hammer didn't start making them because of the gun I bought. I prefer the GP-100 over my 'smith 686 no dash. They are a great pistol but you might want to check out some of the things you can do to make them even better.
If you just plonk in the general direction of tin cans occasionally don't bother.

Take Care

Bob
 
bigrack said:
I'm sure if you do a search you'll find a lot of info as this has been asked before. My 2 cents, I've owned both in 6" versions and both are very excellent revolvers but I liked the 686 better, I found after a few hundred rounds the smith had the better trigger and slightly more accurate.
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I haven't owned them but have shot both personally I prefer the feel of the Ruger. The grip just fits my hand better on the other hand the Smiths trigger is better. I know, buy one of each and give me the one you don't like.
 
I would never own a GP100 for one simple reason...
That ugly ass unfinished cast grip frame.
gripFrame.jpg
 
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