Ruger m77 hawkeye

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jharriet

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I have a newish m77 hawkeye my father gave me after his shoulder surgery, its chambered in .300 win mag with a synthetic stock. I had it out the range last week trying to sight it in for upcoming deer season, and honestly as much as i love the rifle itself it shot like crap. The point of inpact was all over the place and was shooting 3-5" groups. Im wondering what i can do to improve the accuracy of the rifle, im sure free floating the barrel would be a good idea but im not sure how to go about it. Ive considered selling the rifle and buying a new one but ideally I would like to get this rifle to shoot better since I love the action and chambering already. I was debating on putting a new optic on it. It currently has a "fluted" King optics highlander 2,If you guys have ever heard of them. It was a expensive scope but isnt really a reputable name, the only other optic I have is my vortex viper that is ontop my win model 70, which I would like to leave on for this season because I dont feel comfortable shooting the ruger.
Ive also had my brother shoot the gun to see if it was just me flinching because I know the rifle kicks like a mule, but his shots werent any better.
Im hopeing free floating or replacing the optic will increase the guns accuracy.
Any input you's have will be greatly appreciated.
 
I have 3 Hawkeye and they all shoot incredibly well. I would replace your scope and double check that all your mounting screws are tight. Sounds like a terrific rifle otherwise. Don't give up on it. Also, maybe try some different brands of ammunition as some will shoot better than others. If you don't have a lead sled, I strongly recommend that you buy one or borrow one to sight that rifle in. It takes all the recoil out. That rifle would kick like a heavy barreled. 308 if you were shooting it out of a lead sled.

Good luck and keep us posted.

SS1
 
I am a Ruger MKII/Hawkeye fan and have more than a dozen... they are all good shooters... I would eliminate the obvious items first. Disassemble the gun and insure proper fitment and torque on the action screws... remove the scope and remount a new optic, paying attention to the mounting of the Ruger system rings... I can't tell you how many times I have seen poorly mounted/canted rings... how is the trigger on your gun? All of my LC6 triggers were great but I did trigger jobs on a couple pre-LC6 guns... and the groups improved dramatically.
 
Very likely it is the king optic, not the rifle. Throw a leupold vx2 on it and watch the groups shrink to 1"...
 
Yeah ill try a new optic I guess. I cant see the fluted scope design being a good idea.. Going to get a vx2 for my Win super grade and put my votex on the ruger.
 
Why spend money on a new expensive scope when it might not be the reason for the problem? If you suspect the scope is the problem, put a cheap fixed power scope and shoot five rounds. If the group is tight, then your king scope sucks. If the group is still very loose, then it is a different problem.
Fixed power scopes are hard to break
 
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hoytcanon said:
I am a Ruger MKII/Hawkeye fan and have more than a dozen... they are all good shooters... I would eliminate the obvious items first. Disassemble the gun and insure proper fitment and torque on the action screws... remove the scope and remount a new optic, paying attention to the mounting of the Ruger system rings... I can't tell you how many times I have seen poorly mounted/canted rings... how is the trigger on your gun? All of my LC6 triggers were great but I did trigger jobs on a couple pre-LC6 guns... and the groups improved dramatically.
Click to expand...

Do this before spending money!!!
 
If you guys saw where King optics were made, this would be a no brainer...;)

Flip your Vortex on it for a day and go shoot.
 
blargon said:
If you guys saw where King optics were made, this would be a no brainer...;)

Flip your Vortex on it for a day and go shoot.
Click to expand...

This why spend money you don't have to? put your other scope on it and go shooting, if it still has the problem then its the gun, if no problem then it is the scope
 
lastviking said:
Do you use a specific torque sequence and what do you torque them to? and is it the same for m77-m77mk2-m77 hawkeyes?
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Start at the front and work back on the screws... Ruger recommends 95 inch-pounds on the front screw... I have always found this excessive and torque mine to 75 inch-pounds. For the trigger guard screws, do the front first, and just hand tight, so that they won't back out... the rear TG screw is done last and again hand tight... no excessive force required.
 
hoytcanon said:
Start at the front and work back on the screws... Ruger recommends 95 inch-pounds on the front screw... I have always found this excessive and torque mine to 75 inch-pounds. For the trigger guard screws, do the front first, and just hand tight, so that they won't back out... the rear TG screw is done last and again hand tight... no excessive force required.
Click to expand...
Do you know the proper torque procedure for tightening the rings to the rifle? I had a Hawkeye that the front ring would come loose on the receiver after less than 10 rounds. After using the procedure Ruger gave me, it hasn't been an issue after several hundred rounds now.

I can't remember the how to do it now.f:P:
 
jbmauser said:
Do you know the proper torque procedure for tightening the rings to the rifle? I had a Hawkeye that the front ring would come loose on the receiver after less than 10 rounds. After using the procedure Ruger gave me, it hasn't been an issue after several hundred rounds now.

I can't remember the how to do it now.f:P:
Click to expand...

First, dismantle the rings by removing the top half... then, back out the thumbscrews on both rings...
With the thumb of one hand press the ring down and centered into the recoil slot..... wiggle it slightly to level and center it... while holding it pressed in, finger tighten the thumbscrew. Lay the gun on its side and using a wide, thick, flathead screwdriver torque the livin' bejeezus out of the thumbscrew WITHOUT leaning on the side of the ring (you may have to prop the gun or otherwise support it... then place your scope in the lower rings position it for eye relief and level the crosshairs... torque the screws down slowly by going back and forth in a #####-cross pattern... if you don't do this the scope will pivot during the tightening process... Ruger rings are notoriously sharp and really grab the scope surface... I lap all of my rings before scope installation to prevent pivoting and scope barrel damage.
 
Hoyt this may sound dumb but I've never lapped rings as I usually get my rings/scope installed when I buy the scope at a retailer. That said what do you use to lap your rings and how do you do it?

Thanks.
 
hoytcanon said:
First, dismantle the rings by removing the top half... then, back out the thumbscrews on both rings...
With the thumb of one hand press the ring down and centered into the recoil slot..... wiggle it slightly to level and center it... while holding it pressed in, finger tighten the thumbscrew. Lay the gun on its side and using a wide, thick, flathead screwdriver torque the livin' bejeezus out of the thumbscrew WITHOUT leaning on the side of the ring (you may have to prop the gun or otherwise support it... then place your scope in the lower rings position it for eye relief and level the crosshairs... torque the screws down slowly by going back and forth in a #####-cross pattern... if you don't do this the scope will pivot during the tightening process... Ruger rings are notoriously sharp and really grab the scope surface... I lap all of my rings before scope installation to prevent pivoting and scope barrel damage.
Click to expand...
I should contact Ruger again about this. I remember having to tighten then loosen then re-tighten the thumb screws at some point in the procedure. What ever the steps were, they worked out good.
 
fugawi said:
Hoyt this may sound dumb but I've never lapped rings as I usually get my rings/scope installed when I buy the scope at a retailer. That said what do you use to lap your rings and how do you do it?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

200 grit emery paper and then 0000 steel wool... finally, I use a shotgun bore mop in a drill with metal polishing paste... it sounds like a lot but only take a few minutes... you will be amazed at the difference.
 
jbmauser said:
I should contact Ruger again about this. I remember having to tighten then loosen then re-tighten the thumb screws at some point in the procedure. What ever the steps were, they worked out good.
Click to expand...

I do the procedure above and have never had a problem with Ruger rings... the only problem comes in when the ring isn't properly seated.
 
My money is on the King Optics scope.

The owner of that company is a con artist and the scopes are made in China garbage that has been rebranded, marked up to a ridiculous level and purported as something they are not. I feel sorry for all the guys who have been taken thinking they were buying a premium Canadian product.
 
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