Ruger No 1 hunters
- Thread starter buckchaser
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
For about a dozen years - starting circa 1999 or so, I had a No. 1A in 7x57 - I must have taken several dozen white tail and mule deer with it. I had been taking my 338 Win Mag into the "Bush" for Elk, so I never used the 7x57 on anything larger than Saskatchewan deer. The last I had heard from the next owner was that the rifle was still taking deer in the coulees in Southern Saskatchewan. At various times it had 2-7 Leupold, M8-6X Leupold and K3 Weaver scopes. By about 50 or 60 paces, my longest kill shot was circa 300 yards. My "average" kill shot was not much more than 100 yards. I used 150 grain Nosier Partition bullets and RL-19 powder, Fed 210 primers and R-P brass - sort of 2,800 fps at the muzzle - several times over the years with a Shooting Chrony. I never could get better than 5 shot groups dependably into 1.25 inches at 100 yards - often 3 holes into 3/4" or so - it seemed to shoot best with the front sandbag under the front of the receiver and the barrel and forearm out in the open. My right handed "bench" form usually had that gun on that sandbag under the receiver, the butt stock supported by some "rabbit ears", my off hand holding the forearm and the butt stock into my right shoulder with my right hand controlling the trigger and the pistol grip. At the time that I bought that rifle, I also bought 140 grain and 160 grain Nosler Partition bullets - convinced myself that the 150 grain Partitions shot "best" of those weights - so was all that I ever used in that one - at least 800 rounds, based on numbers of those primers and bullets used.
About that time, there were a number of articles - many by writer John Barsness - about how to "accurize" a No. 1 Ruger. I never did try the Moyers trigger (although I had one), nor the Hink's Accurizer, but I did have a dab of epoxy at the forearm tip to hold that barrel, I had made sure the quarter rib did not touch the receiver and I had bedded that angled front action screw - but the rear end of the forearm was clear of (not touching) the front of the receiver. I had filed the front edge of the factory safety so that ejected fired cartridges generally would fly past my head when the action was opened. Much comment at the time that the No. 1 was like some high end girlfriends - some required a LOT of work to produce only "adequate" results.
About that time, there were a number of articles - many by writer John Barsness - about how to "accurize" a No. 1 Ruger. I never did try the Moyers trigger (although I had one), nor the Hink's Accurizer, but I did have a dab of epoxy at the forearm tip to hold that barrel, I had made sure the quarter rib did not touch the receiver and I had bedded that angled front action screw - but the rear end of the forearm was clear of (not touching) the front of the receiver. I had filed the front edge of the factory safety so that ejected fired cartridges generally would fly past my head when the action was opened. Much comment at the time that the No. 1 was like some high end girlfriends - some required a LOT of work to produce only "adequate" results.
That 270 was a wicked rifle- one of my favorites for sure!
Most times a pressure point added with a Hicks Accurizer or a simple grub screw drilled and tapped under the mainspring pivot is all that is needed .
In the case of the factory .303 1A's, quite often slugging the bore and getting the appropriate jacketed bullet or cast bullet makes a huge difference .
The factory .303's seem to have varying bore diameters from what I have read.
Cat
I never had an issue with the so called slow lock time with any of my RugersNo. 1 relatively slow lock time not conducive to great accuracy.
Below was a group fired offhand with a Paul Marquart factory profiled barrel chambered in 7x57. This was common accuracy for my No.1's back when I had better eyes and legs
Cat
Attachments
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Oddly perhaps, but I had read the opposite - that Ruger chose to use a 0.314" diameter barrel, whereas most common Sierra and Hornady bullets might be 0.311" or 0.312". I never owned one, but can see that slugging the bore to determine barrel diameter would be a first necessary step. There will be some "obturation" with flat base bullets - not so sure about boat tail bullets - proof one way or other will be in holes on target. If you get a good load for a good rifle, the target groups will show that.
I used to be very enamoured about bullet speed - as I got older and several hundred kills later, I believe in bullet weight and accuracy, more so than just speed of impact. Probably the good hits that did NOT result in instant kills taught me more than an expected kill shot.
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Licensed to kill
CGN Regular
- Location
- Peace Country Alberta
Neither have I. After shooting flintlocks for decades, one learns to follow through so any lock time differences in any CF is completely irrelevant.
I don't hunt due to wife/girlfriend but I do have Ruger No1 in 45-70 and 303 British, both are very accurate for hunting purpose, almost one inch grouping with factory rounds. The 45-70 shot a bit better and consistently due to my hand load probably.
For me, they are simply something that I take to the range on slow day, have a cigar, take my time and enjoy the day without kids and wife.
For me, they are simply something that I take to the range on slow day, have a cigar, take my time and enjoy the day without kids and wife.
I will do that- thanks Cat!
For what its worth:
I was searching for the same thing. Something heirloom quality, but also practical. The no1 seemed to fit the bill.
Early this year Ruger announced their No1RSI for the year in 9.3x62. I began the hunt for one.
Yesterday after a few months of waiting mine finally arrived. This rifle has some of the nicest walnut ive seen on a "factory" rifle. I will report back in a few hours after Ive been to the range with it. For now I will run it with iron sights only. But likely it will get a 1-6 power Accupoint or 1-5 VX5 down the road.
I was searching for the same thing. Something heirloom quality, but also practical. The no1 seemed to fit the bill.
Early this year Ruger announced their No1RSI for the year in 9.3x62. I began the hunt for one.
Yesterday after a few months of waiting mine finally arrived. This rifle has some of the nicest walnut ive seen on a "factory" rifle. I will report back in a few hours after Ive been to the range with it. For now I will run it with iron sights only. But likely it will get a 1-6 power Accupoint or 1-5 VX5 down the road.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
If / when you do decide to install a scope - many of us found the Ruger brand Offset rings are nice to use. I have a set of Leupold offset for a Ruger #1 - but I found them to be "flimsy" - I can push the scope down if I use them - no doubt it only matters when "in battery", but I still did not like that movement - so I went with the proper Ruger offset rings instead.
If you like me and want to use iron sights as backup then get a Warne quick detach medium scope ring for Ruger No1, they are very solid and work quite well. It is a bit hassle to mount though due to split ring design.
i always rekon a Rimmed cartridge is the #1s forte !
im in the 303 camp----- but theres plenty of good ones for keepers- something moderate.. dont need a 300prc in one an dont need a 204-7rem mag varminter
Custom your's own . I always do . Barrel are 600$ , chamber reamer are depend on the caliber 150 to 300$ , and job to thread to action are around 200$ . You can make any caliber . For hunting my choice are in the big .50 , but i also like the 405 win and 9.3x74r
Forget the Groups---
Get a 180gr Speer RN SP, seat it long. fill with 40gr Varget and stack the Freezer our to 200-250meters
Oh, I. have forgotten about grouping. I’ d be happy with a cold bore shot that hits within 3” of where I’m aiming. It has no consistency.
Licensed to kill
CGN Regular
- Location
- Peace Country Alberta
About 25 years ago, Bevan King, a local gunsmith was building himself a custom No 1 in .404 Jeffery. Well, somebody came along and wanted that gun but not in that calibre so Bevan rebarreled it and I asked about the barrel, he still had it so I asked “how much?”, he said, for you?, $100. I said “is that blued?” He said “sure I’ll blue it”, I said “is that installed?”, he gave me a look and said “sure”, I then asked, is that with the quarter rib installed?”, he looked at me and said “it’s only $100!!!,…..ok I’ll install the quarter rib” problem was, I didn’t have a No1 to rebarrel. Didn’t want to change my .338 or my 22-250 so I went on the hunt for an action. Unfortunately, Bevan passed away before I got my $hit together so I missed out.
