Rusty bayonet...

Mr. Dynamite

Mr. Dynamite

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
4   0   0
Location
Northern Alberta
Hey there, want to pick the minds of the experts here

Have an old socket bayonet of some kind that had a light dusting of surface rust. I oiled the blade and put it back in the leather scabbard. Took it out today and the rust has been getting much worse and started to pit the metal.

What do I soak the blade in to stop the rust?

Sorry, no pics for now, the nutz forum doesn't work with the site I hose pics off of, will get that straightened out.

Thanks!
 
Rust never sleeps. Ive worked on a lot of old bayonets, many antique swords. If concerned about neutralizing some foreign substance eating away at your bayonet, gently scrub with bucket of water to neutralize any acid, rinse. Dry completely. Closely examine the metal, to determine any damage or repair needed, possibly any level of oxidation you may want to leave or remove. Finally wipe with a thick coat of oil. Water displacement oil is popular.
I like to leave all my old bayonet, sword blades wet, when someone occasionally gripes while they examine, I politely tell them to never touch the blade of any edged piece. Then I oil it again.
With any antique there is minimum that must be done to keep it from rotting away over time. Or keep it from rusting away any faster than possible.
As for the scabbard have a peek at it as well to determine your next step. Good luck.
 
Yesterday I was looking on the net regarding trying to remove rust. Believe it or not, many fellows that restore cars are using molasses. They use it for anything from small parts to complete body panels (in a large tank). Depending on the severity of rust, items are soaked anywhere from a week to 3 weeks in a solution of 1 part molasses to 9 parts water. It's an all natural, environmentally friendly stripper. Google removing rust with molasses.
 
Yeah molasses gets used some, so does wash soda and a battery charger. Look up electrolytic derusting. A mixture of vinegar from the store, and as much salt as it will dissolve, works really well too, but all the methods have one important thing in common, and that is that the part MUST be fully submerged, or you will almost be able to watch metal disappear at the water line.

Whatever method you use, rinse clean, using hot clean water, dry, and apply oil afterwards ASAP. Be generous!

Don't use WD 40 as an 'oil' it isn't, it will wash away the oil that may be on the part, and when the Stoddard solvent ( the main ingredient) evaporates, it will leave your metal open to more rust. Use real oil, use wax, use something other than WD 40.

Cheers
Trev
 
Someone on CGN mentioned using synthetic diesel 30 weight motor oil on long term storage antique stuff. I have a few civil war era revolvers, so tried it on a couple, seems to be fine. (My opinion only)..
 
0000 steel wool and light oil will take therust off without bothering any existing finish. Much faster using a light touch with a fine brass wire wheel in a bench grinder, drill press or hand drill. Operative wording is 'light touch' and eye protection is essential. Then put on a light coat of oil.
Do not store anything in leather.
 
I was always cautioned to never store them long term in the leather scabbards as well. {Re: can increase/cause rust}
 
Use dry fine steel wool to remove normal light rust.

For heavy rust I use a spent rifle cartridge with the mouth flattened out to scrape away.

For long term storage, a light coat of a good grease works well.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Does anyone know where to find real fine 000 brass or bronze wool? Think I will give that a try. I covered it real good in oil for now, still need to get the little rust spots off though. Then there's the scabbard...it is dry! Will worry about that next.
 
I wouldn't put that bayo back in that leather scabbard either.

The oil you used has obviously released the tanning solution that was dried into the leather. This can be extremely corrosive. I have seen similar rust on pistols stored it poorly tanned holsters.
 
If you're stripping the bayo, use evaporust from Canadian Tire. It only attacks rust and it's non-toxic.

If you want to keep the patina, scrub the bayonet with very hot water and soap. Possibly even boiling water which will convert red rust to black, though it'll need more time in boiling water to convert. Also I wouldn't store it in the scabbard - it's like storing it in a sponge. After cleaning wax the bayo and maybe fine a leather preservative and work that into the leather both internally and externally.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom