S&W Model 27 ?

[BC Mike]

Yeah, I have to figure out the pic thing. I used to have an account at hunt something, but I've forgotten all the details. I also have 44 Specials and a plethora of N frame mags, 41's and 44's, plus a few 45's that I should take pics of. - dan

Dan make it Photobucket so you don't get all the Party Poker crap that come along with most of the others, esp Image Shack. I'll see if my sticky from another forum is around to tell you how to do it.

Edit:
Here's the Photobucket info:

Posting Pictures

The following info may seem simplistic to the electronically gifted but for those of you like myself who have been cyberspace challenged I hope this helps. It was daunting my first time trying to post a picture on a forum thread. Seemed so complicated and I couldn’t wrap my head around how my pictures were supposed to go to some website server and then magically appear on CGN! I’m just a guy who wants to talk guns and throw a few (thousand) rounds down range once in a while. I’m certainly no computer wizard, I’ll admit to (or brag about) that, no problem. Long story short… I figured it out – it’s easy and if you want to join the fun of tossing in a pic of that Python or old Colt 1911 you treat better than your first born here’s how to do it. I (and many other CGNers) use “Photobucket” because it has no popups or other bs that are a part of other free picture storing/sharing websites. I have no connection to it other than that it works great for me.

Steps in posting your pictures in the EE or other threads.

• Go to “Photobucket” and register. Give a valid email address and use your judgment on the rest. Here’s the link: http://photobucket.com/register.php?link=topmenu

• They will send you a confirmation email right away with a link to go to complete the process. Now you can log in to Photobucket and start uploading pictures to their site which has a reserved space for your photos.

• Now you’re logged in at the Photobucket site and on your screen it shows several buttons, each with the word “Browse”. Click any one of them and it will let you choose pictures from wherever you have them stored on your computer. For example if your pictures are in a “My Documents” folder called “Guns” you can choose that folder right from the Photobucket site by clicking that Browse button.

• Choose a photo by clicking on it and then click “Open”. Now on the Photobucket page just click “Upload” and wait a couple of minutes while a copy of the picture transfers to the Photobucket site. Repeat as necessary till you have a stock of photos stored on Photobucket. At this point you have a stock of photos including that nice Diamondback you want to put in EE for $400.00 which is the reason I’m doing all this typing. Just kidding – sort of.

• Now it’s time to start a thread in EE or just share a picture in reply to someone else’s thread in Pistols & Revolvers etc. Go to your Photobucket pictures and left click (yes left) on the 4th line under the picture that says “IMG Code” It will auto-copy the image info and then all you have to do is paste that in a new thread or reply dialog box on CGN by right clicking the mouse and choosing “paste”. When you post your thread or reply etc. the actual image will magically appear in your post. If you are using the newest version of Flash 10 you may have to left click the image to hilite it and then right click the copy function before pasting in the EE.



Mike

 

[tobin]

Are the cadillac of the S&W 'N' frame .357 Mag wheelgun's.....

NAA.

I would take a 3.5" barrel Model 27 over a Python any day of the week.

 

[BC Mike]

Anyone besides me have a pathological hatred of the " Hilary Hole" on the newer guns? It just doesn't belong , especially on something called a classic model. Great collections,guys. Good luck to the new guys with the fever comin on.

Just a note that I like your tag line quote from Blackadders WW1 series.

"I on the other hand am a well rounded individual, with a degree from the university of life, a diploma from the school of hard knocks, and three gold stars from the kindergarten of getting the s**t kicked out of me."

 

[BC Mike]

I would take a 3.5" barrel Model 27 over a Python any day of the week.

Would you take it over a documented 3" Python?

 

[tjhaile]

I would definitely take a Model 27 over a Python in any barrel length. I prefer the looks of the S&W, there are more gunsmiths that can work on them, and S&Ws are more durable than Colts.

My choice of barrel, however, would be the 5" length. It looks just perfectly proportioned on an N-Frame to me.

 

[buckbrush]

I too would take a 27 over a Python.

 

[BC Mike]

I would definitely take a Model 27 over a Python in any barrel length. I prefer the looks of the S&W, there are more gunsmiths that can work on them, and S&Ws are more durable than Colts.

My choice of barrel, however, would be the 5" length. It looks just perfectly proportioned on an N-Frame to me.

More durable than a Python? Yes I've heard that....

My 1958 Python.....which I don't think has ever NEEDED a smith.

 

[dan belisle]

I would definitely take a Model 27 over a Python in any barrel length. I prefer the looks of the S&W, there are more gunsmiths that can work on them, and S&Ws are more durable than Colts.

My choice of barrel, however, would be the 5" length. It looks just perfectly proportioned on an N-Frame to me.

It depends on which S&W, in which caliber, and whether or not you feed it a steady diet of hot loads. Also you need a real 'smith to work on a Python, whereas pretty much any mechanic can figure out the S&W lockworks (I know this 'cause I are one). - dan

 

[tjhaile]

If we're talking Model 27 vs. Python, I'm pretty sure the S&W will stand up better to a steady diet of hot .357 loads.

The main problem with Colts is that their lockwork wears more rapidly than a S&W, causing them to go out of time sooner.

 

[dan belisle]

Ok, I'll go along with that. On the other hand, the Colt will lock up properly even when out of time, until you reach a point where it is so far gone you can't do anything with it. In terms of shear strength of the gun, probably a wash. - dan

 

[tobin]

Would you take it over a documented 3" Python?

Yup.

 

[Onty]

The quality of S+W's has been going downhill since the change to unpinned barrels, if not before. Now they have 2 piece barrels, MIM'ed hammers and triggers ...

I have 5 of them , all pinned.

Here is a statement from older gentleman (he is a shooter, not collector) in my club that had more guns than many of us combined, and he is at least every second day on a range, when weather permits:

"The most accurate and durable S&W revolvers are those -3 and up but excluding those latest with MIM parts."

From Clements website about latest S&W revolvers: "...I am currently only accepting N-frame cal. conversions. I cannot do action work on newer guns with MIM parts. If the back of the trigger has cavities cast in it, then the gun is a MIM gun and not suitable..." http://www.(remove)clementscustomguns.com/smithwessonrevolvers.html

Yup, I like those pinned ones, gorgeous guns, my friend has one 27 (no dash number), but if I decide to get 27, I'll follow old shooter advice.

 

[dan belisle]

I would say it would depend on the model. Not all the dashes in each model are for the same engineering changes. For example, a dash 3 change in a K frame is not the same as a dash 3 change in an N frame. Having said that, I would still take a dash 2 or earlier N frame over later ones (the possible exception being the Model 25 due to the throat issues). - dan

(and just for the record, I am an "old" shooter)

 

[Onty]

I would say it would depend on the model. Not all the dashes in each model are for the same engineering changes. For example, a dash 3 change in a K frame is not the same as a dash 3 change in an N frame. Having said that, I would still take a dash 2 or earlier N frame over later ones (the possible exception being the Model 25 due to the throat issues). - dan

(and just for the record, I am an "old" shooter)

You are right, changes are not the same, N frame received so called "Endurance Package". However, according to what I found in magazines, most, if not all -3 and up revolvers are done on modern CNC machines, making parts very uniform and reducing considerably fitting process. Also, cranes are made from stronger material, apparently, 40% stronger on N frame (additional note: if I remembered correctly, those upgrades on N frame stared with -2E).

Final note; I am still kicking myself for letting a friend some years ago to take in front of my nose just gorgeous 27 with 8-3/8" barrel. Stupid mistake I will never do again. However, I learned that there is one 27-3(?) that might be for sale. If that one has 8-3/8" barrel, I am gonna be one very happy kid...

 

[BC Mike]

"The most accurate and durable S&W revolvers are those -3 and up but excluding those latest with MIM parts."

From Clements website about latest S&W revolvers: "...I am currently only accepting N-frame cal. conversions. I cannot do action work on newer guns with MIM parts. If the back of the trigger has cavities cast in it, then the gun is a MIM gun and not suitable..." http://www.(remove)clementscustomguns.com/smithwessonrevolvers.html

I prefer the aesthetic of non-MIM parts but there is nothing wrong with them.

 

[Onty]

I prefer the aesthetic of non-MIM parts but there is nothing wrong with them.

Apparently, MIM parts are hard on surface like older forged parts, but if you stone them, very soon you will hit softer material underneath, and that is the reason why Clements does not work on newer guns. Take this one with grain of salt, I hate to spread unconfirmed stories, but I also do not want to be in situation to have (in my opinion) important info without telling others. If anybody knows better, please correct me. Thanks.

 

[tjhaile]

The old bar stock parts also have a very thin case hardening.

 

[dan belisle]

You need to keep in mind that a lot of the "improvements" (44 endurance package aside) were done to make manufacture less expensive, not necessarily to improve the revolver. The fit and finish on pre-war S&Ws is miles ahead of any later version, better machining or not, what they lacked in precision off the line they polished and fit in final assembly. Does it make it a more accurate revolver? Probably not, but to my eyes, and hands, they look and feel better. - dan

 

[BC Mike]

Apparently, MIM parts are hard on surface like older forged parts, but if you stone them, very soon you will hit softer material underneath, and that is the reason why Clements does not work on newer guns. Take this one with grain of salt, I hate to spread unconfirmed stories, but I also do not want to be in situation to have (in my opinion) important info without telling others. If anybody knows better, please correct me. Thanks.

My preferance is always the older models and I know there has been lots of talk here and all the other firearms sites regarding MIM parts. I'm an average shooter and haven't had any issue with those parts in my newer wheelguns or my Kimber semi-auto. Here's an interesting article from Modern Applications News on the subject.

http://www.modernapplicationsnews.com/articles/m003rop.htm

 

[Brian45]

Nice guns guys. I didn't get into N frames untill 2001 or so. I've managed to find Model 25 in .45LC, 27's, 28's, 29's, 57's and newer 629's and 657. The Model 24 and 58 have eluded me so far but I keep looking.

I have to agree that the Model 27 is the best looking and best shooting of the N frames. I have one in blue and one in nickle. I was tempted recently when my dealer had a registered pre 27 with papers but couldn't part with that much money.