Savage 99 30-30 Question

I was gonna ask who in their right mind mounts a sling that way...then remembered an old guy down along the river here who drills holes thru the wood and uses copper wire for sling mounts...course he's not in his "right mind" :p
 
that's not as bad as the old fella along the river here who drills holes thru the wood and uses copper wire for sling mounts...same guy wanted to weld washers along side the front sight on his Anschutz 222 for "protection"
 
Gatehouse said:
Cool looking barrel band. DOes it clamp on or does it need soldering, too?

I'll measure the barrel with some calipers tonight when I get home:)
Click to expand...

Ya, like Davey said you can see a small screw that binds it together on the barrel and then under that is an open hole for an Uncle Mikes quick detach swivel.

The .660 is the inside diameter.
 
After retrieving MadDogs package form the po box, I found I had another problem...The buttplate screw that had been used as a replacement made the hole in the butt too large, so I filled it up wiht epoxy and redid the hole for the replacement screw.

Then I installed the barrel band and I even stumbled upon a leather sling that I had tucked away. I really have no clue what rifle it came off of or how long I have had the sling...

Then I dug up a sling swivel and installed it on the barrel band.

Here is what the final product looks like.

26150_405874185515_526315515_5491146_7126060_n.jpg



Next task is to work up a couepl of loads. I noticed that I had some 150gr Sierra FP's and I've got some OMA 175gr cast bullets and I probably will try out 130gr TSX as well.
 
FWIW when I get a stock that has a stripped hole I drill it out enough to remove all the shredded wood and glue a dowel into it. Then I redrill the hole. I use maple dowel tho. Got a couple of buttplate screws too.
 
My son was given one in 22HP it has been in the family 100 years. When he got it, it had never saw a cleaning and the wood was very dry.
what we did was to take photos of each step and anything that looked different we took more photos. This helped in reassembly and was a easy thing to follow.
the wood we put in a bucket of linseed oil.
You are right the pin is a cocked indicator.
a few pointers the screw that holds the butt to the action is a large flat one -make sure that the one you use is as large as will fit.
if you put the wood into linseed oil make sure you put it outside away from any buildings it gets super hot
each peace you will need to take a photo of for placement
and if its the rotary mag a few bits must go together at the same time before you tighten it up
once you have it all clean and together take a shell with just the primer (pull the bullet) and try to fire it then take a few shells and load up to see how it shoots.
One thingI know about them is they are a wonderful rifle the sad thing is most people never cleaned them and the powder that was used ate the barrels out of them so that when you shoot the bullets key hole
all the best
 
Took it to the range, using the only 30-30 ammo I had loaded- Some 130gr TSX @ 2400fps

ry%3D480


Not a bad 100 yard group for using those teeny little sights. Of course, I was aiming at the bottom square, so maybe I will load some regular weight/velocity ammo for this rifle and call it a day!:)
 
I have no reason to suspect that anything is wrong with the firearm form a safety standpoint- It's a nice, robust rifle that could use a little TLC. While I've shot a few 99's, I've never owned one and I know there are some 99 aficionados here, so maybe they could give me a pointer or 2 for sprucing up this old banger.

FIrst 2 questions are- When the lever is cocked, it works smoothly, until the last bit, where the bolt lifts up and slides into the chamber. At this point it takes quite a bit more effort. Is this normal with 99's ?

Secondly, when the action is cocked, a small pin pops up from the tang part of the receiver, then drops down when the trigger is puled. I assume this is a "cocking indicator" of some sort?

Is this rifle reasonably easy to strip down, give it a good cleaning and polishing? Or should I limit it to removing the stocks and not messing with any of the internals?[/QUOTE]
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I had to say good bye to my 99's on account of that "tight" spot (arthritis).
Contact bogie he is a 99 man and one of the one of the best wood refinishing men that I know. He's a good guy, he'll give you the tips you need.
 
The point where it is getting hard is where it is cocking the firing pin. The firing pin runs through the center of the bolt and it may be a little rusty in there and need to be cleaned up to smoothen the action. The savages are really easy to take apart. The trickest part is the rotor, but the rest I would think that anyone with some mechanical aptitude could take it apart and put it back together. The bolt can be tricky also depending on the vintage of the rifle. There is a small spring at the end that keeps the firing pin in the safe position when not cocked, don't loose it they are hard to come by!

Yes the pin on the back is the cocking indicator. You can also slip close these old girls so they are not cocked. Just before it starts getting hard squeeze the trigger and continue to close the bolt and it will not be cocked.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom