notsorichguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
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A guy at my local g-club had a new bolt handle made for his MKII. I liked it so much I asked him to get another one made up for me, I mentioned it in a thread I was waiting on a bolt handle for My MKII and I was asked to post once it got here...... Well it's here! 
It completely changes the way the rifle cycles (it takes less effort) I imagine this is due to the longer length and the fact that there is no 'bend' in the bolt handle.
Changing it out was pretty simple, buddy came over one night and the swap was done in less than 10 min start to finish.
After it was all done and said I thought "D'ho! I should have taken pics!" Well not to worry, I have a 93R here as well so I can show how to take it apart and how to put it back together.
All you need is a pair of pliers (tape them up please), Ball point pen, flat head screw driver and a 5/16" wrench. I used a small vise instead of the pliers for the pics and a small punch instead of a ball point pen, it's easier that way anyhow.
Start by taking bolt out of the firearm.
Now if you look at the bottom of the bolt you will see a squared shaft on the bottom, which is what I used to hold it into the vise.
Now if you pull GENTLY on the back of the bolt you will see a little flat sided shaft in there (5/16 sized) it turns out counter clock wise.
Once you have the two halves of the bolt apart you will see a shaft (on the part of the bolt that has the bolt handle) that has a spring and a retaining snap pin on the end. I used a flat head screwdriver to slip the snap ring off while I held the spring with my fingers.... I have pretty tough fingers, so if you have any doubts, put the end of the shaft down on the table or bench before you slip off the snap ring. THIS UNDER TENSION!!!! If you are not careful you will have parts across the room!
You will now notice that the bolt in no longer under tension, this is useful for removing the pin that holds the centre shaft in the bolt body. There is a corresponding hole on the bolt body on the other side of the pin, but you have to rotate the bolt a bit and push it rearward so that the hole line up. The pin has a head so it should only go in and out one way.
Now you have the bolt assembly completely apart. If you were cleaning the bolt this is where you would stop.
Now we take the 5/16” wrench to the bolt handle, again it is a standard lefty loosie righty tightie thread.
Now you will notice why we couldn’t just unscrew the bolt handle in the first place, there is a relief cut into the threads of the bolt handle to make room for the centre shaft that strikes the firing pin.
For the replacement handle we had the machinist make the threaded portion that threads into the bolt handle only long enough to reach the point where the old bolt handle started its relief. (Sorry no pics of that ) Now you apply a bit of lock-tight (I used red) to the threads and turned it in by hand until it was finger tight then gave it another turn, I then looked inside the bolt body to ensure that the new bolt handle will not be in contact with the moving parts inside.
Here is a comparison between the two bolt handles.
Now you follow the above directions in reverse. First you put the interior shaft back into the bolt body. Then install the pin that holds it all together. Install the threaded bung (with the threads facing towards the front of the bolt shaft) slide the spring back on and then re-install the spring clip...... the spring clip can be a real bear to get back on. I found that if I put the back of the bolt on the bench and then used my flat head screwdriver to apply pressure on the spring you just about need an extra pair of hands to get it back on. The pliers help a bit at this stage. (Again sorry no pics)
Once you have the back half together, you can then put the two halves together. This fairly easy, you will notice that the threads on the bung on the back of the spring stick out a little bit so you can just screw the two halves of the bolt together.
Once you have about one thread into the front half of the bolt, you can then pull back on the rear part of the bolt to spread the gap enough to get the wrench back in there. You only have to get it reasonably tight, not superman tight.
Now quick before the lock-tite hardens test by cycling the action, I found that the squared part of the bolt had to be turned just a hair off square so the the bolt would fully open and close.
This is what it looks like all put back together.
I haven’t had a chance to shoot it yet, but I don’t imagine it will hurt the performance of the rifle what-so- ever.
Cheers!
It completely changes the way the rifle cycles (it takes less effort) I imagine this is due to the longer length and the fact that there is no 'bend' in the bolt handle.
Changing it out was pretty simple, buddy came over one night and the swap was done in less than 10 min start to finish.
After it was all done and said I thought "D'ho! I should have taken pics!" Well not to worry, I have a 93R here as well so I can show how to take it apart and how to put it back together.
All you need is a pair of pliers (tape them up please), Ball point pen, flat head screw driver and a 5/16" wrench. I used a small vise instead of the pliers for the pics and a small punch instead of a ball point pen, it's easier that way anyhow.
Start by taking bolt out of the firearm.
Now if you look at the bottom of the bolt you will see a squared shaft on the bottom, which is what I used to hold it into the vise.
Now if you pull GENTLY on the back of the bolt you will see a little flat sided shaft in there (5/16 sized) it turns out counter clock wise.
Once you have the two halves of the bolt apart you will see a shaft (on the part of the bolt that has the bolt handle) that has a spring and a retaining snap pin on the end. I used a flat head screwdriver to slip the snap ring off while I held the spring with my fingers.... I have pretty tough fingers, so if you have any doubts, put the end of the shaft down on the table or bench before you slip off the snap ring. THIS UNDER TENSION!!!! If you are not careful you will have parts across the room!
You will now notice that the bolt in no longer under tension, this is useful for removing the pin that holds the centre shaft in the bolt body. There is a corresponding hole on the bolt body on the other side of the pin, but you have to rotate the bolt a bit and push it rearward so that the hole line up. The pin has a head so it should only go in and out one way.
Now you have the bolt assembly completely apart. If you were cleaning the bolt this is where you would stop.
Now we take the 5/16” wrench to the bolt handle, again it is a standard lefty loosie righty tightie thread.
Now you will notice why we couldn’t just unscrew the bolt handle in the first place, there is a relief cut into the threads of the bolt handle to make room for the centre shaft that strikes the firing pin.
For the replacement handle we had the machinist make the threaded portion that threads into the bolt handle only long enough to reach the point where the old bolt handle started its relief. (Sorry no pics of that ) Now you apply a bit of lock-tight (I used red) to the threads and turned it in by hand until it was finger tight then gave it another turn, I then looked inside the bolt body to ensure that the new bolt handle will not be in contact with the moving parts inside.
Here is a comparison between the two bolt handles.
Now you follow the above directions in reverse. First you put the interior shaft back into the bolt body. Then install the pin that holds it all together. Install the threaded bung (with the threads facing towards the front of the bolt shaft) slide the spring back on and then re-install the spring clip...... the spring clip can be a real bear to get back on. I found that if I put the back of the bolt on the bench and then used my flat head screwdriver to apply pressure on the spring you just about need an extra pair of hands to get it back on. The pliers help a bit at this stage. (Again sorry no pics)
Once you have the back half together, you can then put the two halves together. This fairly easy, you will notice that the threads on the bung on the back of the spring stick out a little bit so you can just screw the two halves of the bolt together.
Once you have about one thread into the front half of the bolt, you can then pull back on the rear part of the bolt to spread the gap enough to get the wrench back in there. You only have to get it reasonably tight, not superman tight.
Now quick before the lock-tite hardens test by cycling the action, I found that the squared part of the bolt had to be turned just a hair off square so the the bolt would fully open and close.
This is what it looks like all put back together.
I haven’t had a chance to shoot it yet, but I don’t imagine it will hurt the performance of the rifle what-so- ever.
Cheers!
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