School me on 22lr long distance

with 25 yd zero, you only need about 40 moa of up for 300 yds
your scope should have plenty, plus there is lots in the reticle if its the BDC moa reticle

another option for getting dope is walking the target out to distance in 10 yd steps and dial whats needed and build a record
then you covered for everything in between
 
OKS - I take notes on every range day, and pics of targets. Records of hold-overs, ammo used, distance, temp & wind. Some days are better than others or "I'll know why ! . . . ". And home made Wind Flags from $-store thin bamboo sticks and bent clothes-hanger 'Ells' hanging surveyor-tapes. The hanger wire fits into the end of the bamboo-hollows, then about 4-6" out hang a 12-16" tape-flag. Saved me $-hundreds. And the wind at the shooting position has a Big effect on accuracy, TOO ! I hang a tape above my table.
 
If a .22LR using SV ammo is zeroed at 50 yards, the bullet will drop about 152 inches at 300 yards.

When it's zeroed at 300 yards, the bullet trajectory will be about 25" above line of sight at 50.

With a 300 yard zero, the maximum trajectory height above line of sight is about 49" and this will be at around 160 yards.
 
OkayShooter said:
Another thing you can do is, shoot at 100.. Then set up every 50 yards shooting groups and taking notes, till you get max range. You'll have an idea where you are shooting.
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This seems the easiest way for my brain to comprehend, working backwards from the target.
 
See how many MOA you can dial up with your scope.
Set up a target at whatever range you can get enough elevation.
Shoot at the target. Watch for your misses. If you can’t figure out where you are missing, get a closer target and work your way out.

Contrary to popular belief, there isn’t anything particularly difficult about shooting long range with a 22lr. It’s fun to try and make wind calls, that is probably the only part that requires any skill. It’s mostly just luck.

Keep in mind that what works good one day might not work good the next.
 
boxhitch is right, that scope has 80-MOA TOTAL W/E so 40 Up and Down should get you out that way. Be sure to start with the scope at 'True Center' via counting clicks or at least a 'mirror-Zero'. The 40-ish will put you near Max, so you'll be at the 'edge' of adjustment. You may havve distortion that far out ? I dunno for sure, I only shoot out to 200 with about that MOA avail.
 
Buck1950 said:
OKS - I take notes on every range day, and pics of targets. Records of hold-overs, ammo used, distance, temp & wind. Some days are better than others or "I'll know why ! . . . ". And home made Wind Flags from $-store thin bamboo sticks and bent clothes-hanger 'Ells' hanging surveyor-tapes. The hanger wire fits into the end of the bamboo-hollows, then about 4-6" out hang a 12-16" tape-flag. Saved me $-hundreds. And the wind at the shooting position has a Big effect on accuracy, TOO ! I hang a tape above my table.
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This is another great idea
 
Buck1950 said:
boxhitch is right, that scope has 80-MOA TOTAL W/E so 40 Up and Down should get you out that way. Be sure to start with the scope at 'True Center' via counting clicks or at least a 'mirror-Zero'. The 40-ish will put you near Max, so you'll be at the 'edge' of adjustment. You may havve distortion that far out ? I dunno for sure, I only shoot out to 200 with about that MOA avail.
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How do I get the true center just by dialing all the way and counting 40 clicks I'm assuming?
 
No, You have to dial - Gently - all the way to one end, then go back to the other end Counting each clik. I kept score on a notepad, had about 180-klicks or so. With that TOTAL, go back the OTHER WAY, Only go half-way ! In my example, it would be 90-klicks to the Center. PS - My fingers got tired as heck ! The Mirror-Zero is easier but not as accurate, might be off by 5-10 klicks or so. The position of your eye looking down makes a bit of variation in the image. You can google or Y-T that process; it's lots to explain in words-typed.
 
Not really necessary though
the only concern is the amount of up left after the scope is zeroed at the chosen distance
Manufacture spec tells what totals are available for elevation and windage, initial zero likely will not be at center of turret travel
 
boxhitch said:
Not really necessary though
the only concern is the amount of up left after the scope is zeroed at the chosen distance
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This is the only concern. There's no need to "mirror zero" or anything like that.

If you are zeroed at 50, adjust the scope so that the POI will be about 25" high at 50. If you run out of adjustment, use a canted rail, rings with inserts such as Burris Signature Zee, or try a different scope. The bottom line is a rifle scope zeroed at 50 must raise POI by about 25 inches.

The ballistics calculator shows that this zeros at 300 -- at least according to physics. Some fine tuning will likely be necessary as it's usual that few if any bullets will have the same POI at long distances. Recognizable groups may be quite large.

Please note that rounds are not all the same and few will shoot precisely where they ought to. Differences in MV among other things make each round almost unique.
 
With a scope that has 'lots of adj-room' this may not be an issue. You may be able to make enuf adj to get a Zero but for longer distance you may run out of room. However, if the scope is used and possibly been fiddled by prior owner you may wish to 'Center' the reticle to have the most possible adj available. I've also had a 'New' scope that was waay off right ootb.
 
grauhanen said:
This is the only concern. There's no need to "mirror zero" or anything like that.

If you are zeroed at 50, adjust the scope so that the POI will be about 25" high at 50. If you run out of adjustment, use a canted rail, rings with inserts such as Burris Signature Zee, or try a different scope. The bottom line is a rifle scope zeroed at 50 must raise POI by about 25 inches.

The ballistics calculator shows that this zeros at 300 -- at least according to physics. Some fine tuning will likely be necessary as it's usual that few if any bullets will have the same POI at long distances. Recognizable groups may be quite large.

Please note that rounds are not all the same and few will shoot precisely where they ought to. Differences in MV among other things make each round almost unique.
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Well if a shooter isn't used to 100 yard, or understanding wind. Pushing to near 300 with out baby steps still will result to where am I shooting and more frustrations. Plus a shorter barrel like a 16inch will result in a different mv than a 21 plus. So less mv = more drop.

Why the simple walking the target further out initially, is the best choice.
 
OkayShooter said:
Well if a shooter isn't used to 100 yard, or understanding wind. Pushing to near 300 with out baby steps still will result to where am I shooting and more frustrations. Plus a shorter barrel like a 16inch will result in a different mv than a 21 plus. So less mv = more drop.
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So there's no misunderstanding, the OP asked a basic question. He said he can zero at 25 or 50 and wanted to know what he needed to stretch out to 300. He was provided with an answer and it doesn't depend on whether he is used to shooting at 100 yards.

It's not important whether his barrel is a shorter or longer one because no one reading this thread knows what MVs he's getting with the ammo he's using. In his 16.5" barrel they could easily be faster or slower than someone else's 16.5" barrel. He has a Garmin, he can determine his MVs.

Like anyone else reading this thread a shooter is able to put his MVs into a ballistics calculator to get a more accurate idea of how to adjust his POI at 50 yards (or at 25 yards if that's what he initially decides to zero) to get zero at 300 (or some other distance). This isn't complicated.

For those who don't trust the math and ballistics or feel less secure, they can walk the target out incrementally.

Of course for someone newer to shooting, they should always learn the basics at shorter distances before shooting long range with .22LR.
 
On the bright side, this is a very cost-effective way to learn a lot of important lessons in rifle shooting, and at a lot less distance than it would take to run into all this with a centrefire. How much drop and wind to dial for is key to long-range shooting, as is the importance of all the fundamentals like shooting in a stable consistent manner.
 
SPACEFORCE said:
So my current rail is 0 MOA what rail would you recommend to grab 30/40/50?
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Don't overthink the issue. I would just put a 30MOA rail on your rifle. Your Vortex Diamondback has plenty of vertical adjustment to get you to 300y and more then. In this case you have about 10MOA down adjustment and 70 MOA up adjustment. Zero at 50y and then get out there and practice, practice, practice (and have fun, very important too).
 
old303 said:
On the bright side, this is a very cost-effective way to learn a lot of important lessons in rifle shooting, and at a lot less distance than it would take to run into all this with a centrefire. How much drop and wind to dial for is key to long-range shooting, as is the importance of all the fundamentals like shooting in a stable consistent manner.
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Yep that's the main reason I'm using 22 obviously for fun but to gain some fundamentals without breaking the bank.
 
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