School me on Remington 700 Tactical, Police, etc...

Check out 'chilliwack dart and tackle' I was in there a couple of days ago and they have what you are looking for.........Personally I would go for the 20" cheaper and in greater quantity at the moment and 500 meters/yards im thinking you will be fine....Go for the 308/762 if down the road you want to end up hunting
 
and the other reason I'm looking to get a .223 bolt action is because I'm pretty much in love with Springfield M1As and will definitely save up and buy one in a few years. I'm still young, I have a whole life of gun buying ahead of me!
 
Check out 'chilliwack dart and tackle' I was in there a couple of days ago and they have what you are looking for.........Personally I would go for the 20" cheaper and in greater quantity at the moment and 500 meters/yards im thinking you will be fine....Go for the 308/762 if down the road you want to end up hunting

I go to school of UCFV, I should pop in there during my break on Monday, I'll have to leave my credit card at home though, I won't have enough cash for a rifle for another month or so...
 
HiN Jim Rock
I had a Rem 700 police in 223 26" barrel and it shot very good 1/4" at 100 and just over the inch at 300.
I really didnt like the pistol grip on stock quite large and was not comfortable for me.
I bought this spring a Rem 700 XCR with a stainless barrel a little lighter than the Police model 26" it has TriNyte finnish very very nice bolt works like it was in butter. Has a very nice Bell & Carlson stock Green this gun shoots as better than the police only because I did a lot load development, this .223 works well at 1000y with 75gr Berger VLD bullets, if I catch the wind okay or better still no wind it will shoot under the inch at 300y. i would suggest you buy the 26" barrel the 20 may not make it to 1000y youm need to keep velocities up and that extra 6" really helps
http://www.remington.com/products/f...del_700/model_700_XCR_tactical_long_range.asp
 
JR, make sure you get the 9 twist barrel. This will let you stabilize 75gr bullets. These really work great at LR.

I would also suggest a 26" pipe. The 223 is not a large case and velocity helps with wind drift. As long as you are not looking for a light walkabout rifle, a varmint size/weight rifle is nice off the bench/bipod.

Factory fluting is mostly cosmetic. They aren't deep enough to really stress out a barrel. Certainly no more then what comes normally out of the machine. Unless it came that way, I certainly wouldn't spend money for it.

Do consider the Savage 10FP with the HS stock. I feel this is one of the nicest shapes for a black rifle. Some really like the McMillan A5 style better. Either are great shapes. However, neither savage comes in 223.

The 12BVSS is really nice and very accurate but the lam stock/shiney SS is not 'tactical'. Great value. The 12FV is a great rifle and can be very accurate.

Good luck on your adventure and start reloading. Do bed the action into the stock no matter what stock you get. This really helps increase consistency and allow for max accuracy.

With handloads, 1/2 Min would be a wonderful level of performance but don't get upset if it only goes 3/4min at 200yds. I would expect it to hold MOA at 500yds.

Jerry
 
I've heard a lot about bedding and replacing triggers? I'm a rifle newbie.... What do I need to do for aftermarket parts?


honestly, what the hell should I buy for my first good rifle!?
 
basicly the deal with remington fluting is its cut after the boring and rifling. fluting relieves stress in the barrel and lightens it but if you relieve the stress after you have cut the rifling there is a chance of the bore not being concentric with the O.D. (outer dimension) of the barrel.

when the O.D. is threaded and installed into the receiver this can cause the bore to be off axis to the center line of the receiver.

typically match grade barrels are fluted, then bored and rifled so there isn't a possibility of this happening :)
 
JR, choose your cartridge - 223. Should have a 9 or 8 twist for best utility. Good.

Choose the brand/style of rifle that floats your boat. Savage, Rem, Tikka - these are the best production rifle we can afford.

Have the action bedded to the stock. Do a google. There is heaps of info all over the shooting sites. Essentially, the epoxy steel hardens to become a near interference fit between the action and stock. Zero play and stress when the action screws are hand tightened. Pillars may be a good idea too if using a wooden stock. Most plastic stocks come pillar bedded from the factory.

If you decide to get a smith to do the bedding, he can also adjust your trigger.

The Accutrigger on the Savage is an easy at home adjustment. Try for the safest light trigger pull. It helps.

Beyond that, start reloading per the receipe I gave above and shoot, shoot, shoot.

As you gain trigger time, you will also be able to tweak your set up and reloads. Overtime, accuracy and consistency improves.

Maybe you start to find shortcomings in your present rig, maybe you don't.

There really is no way to get a perfect first rifle. We are just too diverse to luck out on a factory rig - although the choices today come pretty darn close.

Like the rest of us, you may want to sell off what you have after a time and buy something new. Each new project will help you find your perfect rifle.

Jerry
 
Get a Rem sps tactical in .308 (its good to 600 m) and get into reloading. The rifle is cheap enough. Go to Reliable Gun in Vancouver. Its about 800.00 taxes in. And its a #### hunting rifle(never mind that Quebec'er) in Coastal B.C.
Unfortunately, if you plan to shoot out that far, you'll need a scope, mounts, shims that would cost close to double the rifle's price. Chinese knocks off will cost you alot of ammo and frustration.

Precision shooting is all about controlling as many variables as you can. The rifle is one. The bullet is another. The load, yet another...ect. Even with everything looking good the shooter himself is the factor that will or will not allow for shooting out past 500 m. It takes a lot of dedication that most don't have. Just don't waste money on an expensive tactical rifle that shoots $5.00 bullets. You'll wind up trying to sell it on the EE forum utterly frustrated.
 
The bottom line

?


honestly, what the hell should I buy for my first good rifle!?

is buy what you want.

It is always an exciting time buying your first rifle. One cannot just wait to get it into there hands and let lead fly downrange.

Don't rush, be certain of what you want and think about down the road if you plan on customizing it.

Sako/Tikka have UNBELIEVABLY smooth bolts. That is one of the first things that everyone sees/notices about them. They also look good and are priced right.

Brownings are BEAUTIFUL rifles because I feel they pride themselves in there wood and appearance.

Remingtons are all around KING of the hill when it comes to tricking them out. MOST aftermarket actions have been based off of the Remington 700. Yes they are not as smooth or beautiful looking as the Sako/Tikka or Browning but the options are limitless.

Savage, well they are functional and from what I hear are probably best bang for the buck accuracy wise out of the box. It is second to the Remington in the department of aftermarket parts. It can rebarrelled by one themselves if they feel they are competent enough and understand the process.

Winchesters I look at them as the hunting workhorse. They are not something I would buy but I feel probably one of the most reliable when it comes to hunting.

These are just some of my thoughts.

Oh yah, and 4 your first rifle get a 223. It is easy to shoot recoil wise. The 308 is not bad but 20 rounds with a 308 versus the 223 I will take the 223 anyday.

ENJOY THE PROCESS
 
and the other reason I'm looking to get a .223 bolt action is because I'm pretty much in love with Springfield M1As and will definitely save up and buy one in a few years. I'm still young, I have a whole life of gun buying ahead of me!

What does a .223 bolt gun have to do with an M1a? .( .308 is the only similarity)....and if you don't vote Conservative on Oct 14th...you WON"T have a whole life of gun buying ahead of you. Get on it young man.
 
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I'm having a hard time deciding on a 700P or 700p LTR in .223.

Anyone have these rifles in .223? What is your preference and why?
Thanks
 
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The 700P seems less twitchy off bags or a pack if you're using it for a rest.
Slight difference in the ergonomics of the stocks also. Some do not like the bulkiness of the pistol grip on the P. With the longer barrel, the P will yield more speed and better long range performance. The LTR will be not as tiring to pack if you decide to hunt with it. But if you want a lighter rifle, lose 10lb and that heavier rifle will feel a whole lot lighter cause you'll be in better shape!;)
 
Nahhhhhhhhhhh...

But if you want a lighter rifle, lose 10lb and that heavier rifle will feel a whole lot lighter cause you'll be in better shape!;)

just buy a 700 Youth model .243 Win and you have the perfect compact, light, short, package.:D

Then you keep adding to it and B4 you know it, it is far from a factory coyote gun.

I know, I just need the stock and then it will be rebarrel time to the ultimate varmint gun, another 6BR to shoot 55gr bullets only.:dancingbanana:
 
Hi Jim, I've been here for a while now and actually when I first joined, some of my first posts were asking the exact same question. I was stuck between a LTR and P.

I settled on the LTR and love it. It is in .308 though. A more versatile round IMO, but yes more expensive than .223.

I would recommend going with a longer barrel though for .223 to get more out of it re: velocity. for 100-500yards, 20" and 26" doesn't make a huge difference for .308 but I can imagine it would for .223

I would look into your choice being in the longer barrel ranges which eliminates the LTR and SPS tactical

Keep in mind the tactical rifles are really heavy, especially for stalking. Mind you i'm not the biggest guy out there but I prefer a lighter rifle if i'm going to be carrying it anywhere and shooting standing.

My LTR is awesome for shooting sitting or prone though.
 
Do yourself a favour and go for the shorter barrel. It's lighter, handles far better, and if you decide to shoot off hand it'll have better balance.

You'll have plenty of guys tell you that you'll need a long barrel and that's just bunk. Like the vast majority of shooters here, 99.5% of your shooting will be done at short to medium range. A 100-150 fps difference in velocity from 26" to 20" isn't giving up much, all things considered.

As others have already said, the 1:9" twist will shoot all weights this side of 77 grs. and will properly stabilize them in flight.
 
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