Scope for rimfire rifle

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maufic

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I'm new to shooting and the range I go to only goes out to 200 meters so I bought a CZ 457 american rimfire as a practice rifle. My question is about buying a scope for the rifle. Am I limited to scopes designated as rimfire scopes or can I put any rifle scope on my rimfire rifle? Are there any issues I need to be aware of if I try to mount a non-rimfire scope?

Thanks,
Moro
 
You are not limited to rimfire only scopes: the only functional difference between a centerfire and rimfire scope is the parallax setting (though I suppose some manufacturers might reason "hmm, less recoil means we can use cheaper components"). When a scope has adjustable parallax, the point becomes redundant. On that note: if you intend on precision shooting from 50m to 200m you will want an adjustable objective as you will probably have a scope with mid-range magnification. For example: I shoot varmints and silhouettes with 22lr from anywhere to 10' out to 200y, subsequently I use a 4-16x40mm scope with an absolutely necessary adjustable objective lens so that I am not plagued by parallax.

I'd suggest something in that ballpark as well. If money is a primary obstacle, get a fixed 4x... parallax is less of a problem with low magnification. I've pasted plenty of varmints with fixed 4x and even lower, a couple hundred yards... though a bit more magnification is useful especially for making tight groups.
 
Not certain what they sell for these days, but a Mueller APV used to be highly spoken of on rimfire central website. I have a 4.5-14x40 which comes with the Adjustable Objective. Probably made in China, but my experience with one bought used in December 2013 is just fine. I have it mounted on a CZ 452 Silhouette. I do have a Ruger 77/22 Mag with a Leupold VX-2 3-9 EFR rimfire on it - 3 to 9 power, has AO, is just about perfect for what I want, but more dollars, if I remember. I have a Leupold VX-1 2-7 rimfire on a Ruger 96/22 Mag - no AO, but booklet says the parallax is set at 60 yards, just like their 4 power rimfire is, so very "handy" for rimfire shooting. No clue how these compare to their newer VX-Freedom scopes, but if the centerfires 3-9x40 are any indication, they certainly did not get "worse"!!
 
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Budget?
Might get a bit of grief for this opinion, but check out the Cabela's rimfire specific scopes.
The caliber-specific EXT bullet-drop reticle takes the guesswork out of long-range shooting with crosshairs precisely calibrated to the bullet drop of a specific caliber. Once you've determined the target range, simply take the corresponding crosshair, put it on target and squeeze the trigger
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Also a big fan of the Vortex Crossfire 3x9, I have one on my Savage MK2.
 
New Camper said:
You are not limited to rimfire only scopes: the only functional difference between a centerfire and rimfire scope is the parallax setting (though I suppose some manufacturers might reason "hmm, less recoil means we can use cheaper components"). When a scope has adjustable parallax, the point becomes redundant. On that note: if you intend on precision shooting from 50m to 200m you will want an adjustable objective as you will probably have a scope with mid-range magnification. For example: I shoot varmints and silhouettes with 22lr from anywhere to 10' out to 200y, subsequently I use a 4-16x40mm scope with an absolutely necessary adjustable objective lens so that I am not plagued by parallax.

I'd suggest something in that ballpark as well. If money is a primary obstacle, get a fixed 4x... parallax is less of a problem with low magnification. I've pasted plenty of varmints with fixed 4x and even lower, a couple hundred yards... though a bit more magnification is useful especially for making tight groups.
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If I'm not mistaken, Parallax is a non-issue if you have a consistent cheek weld and you are centered in the eyebox of the scope. If you're trying to make quick shots where you might not have the time to get set up properly behind the scope than it might matter, but if you're shooting a 22lr at a range from a bench with no pressure (eg not in a competition, not hunting, etc) then I would think you can largely eliminate any impact parallax might have with proper head placement? In fact, I bet one could argue that its better to do it that way if you're learning as you'll likely develop better habits if you can't adjust the parallax on your scope?
 
If you want any type of consistent accuracy you need a rimfire scope with 50 or 60 yard parallax or a scope with adjustable parallax from somewhere around 10 to 20 yards. I have tried "rifle scopes" with fixed 100 yard parallax many times over the years and trust me it does not cut it. You will sight it in and think it is okay, but set up some 12 gauge shotgun hulls at 50 and 75 yards and see what happens. You will accomplish nothing other than frustrating yourself and start to question the gun, the ammo, your shooting ability and the wind, everything other than what it is and that is the wrong scope for the intended purpose.
 
Since you have a very good rifle, I would agree with others in that you should get the best scope you can afford as long as it has Adj Objective/parallax adjustment. I would get (and I have) a 6-24x -50mm scope with adjustable parallax - or even better. And get some help getting it mounted and zero set up. Someone at your range I'm sure would be glad to help.
FWIW - I found a thread regarding zero distance - http s://savannaharsenal.com/2014/08/01/what-distance-to-zero-your-22lr-rifle-2/ -seems to be solid advice.
 
Cabelas covenant are pretty good value for price, better Is vortex diamondback tactical. Both have adjustable parallax and first focal plane retical. The cabelas routinely go on sale for $350-400 and vortex is in $500 range. Above that price point then you get way clearer glass and zero stop. Below that price point , you tend not get the adjustable parallax and sfp retical
 
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Quote from Suther: Parallax is a non-issue if you have a consistent cheek weld and you are centered in the eyebox of the scope.

True for the most part especially with fixed power scopes and lower powered variables.

With a 4.5 - 14 AO, for close in shots the power was dialed down to 4.5X.

Many of the higher power variable scopes at higher power, the parallax has a focusing feature.
At the highest power, going from 50 yards to 100 yards will require adjusting the parallax to the specific range.

Depending on the depth of your pockets, in many cases, a scope the is half the value of the rifle will suffice.
As you want to increase your range, more power might be required and with that comes parallax adjustment.
As your requirements increase so will the value of the scopes and a scope equal the value of your rifle or twice the value of your rifle might be what you want or require. It won't necessarily make you a better shot or make your rifle perform any better but it is nice to see you shots in flight, where they impact and you can differentiate the different shots. This is possible with a 16-24 power scope at 100 yards. This is not as much problem when you have a 4" group at 100 with a 9 power scope but a 1" group at 100 almost requires you to be able to identify two shots in the same hole. Going out to 200 yards/metres requires power.
A mentor at the range should be made friends with. With the COVID still in the picture this may not be the best idea but you can still talk and look.

My current stable has a Leupold 45 x 45 Competition, a Leupold BR36 and a Bushnell 6-24 x 50 Tactical. Clarity isn't everything . . . it is the only thing!

BTW . . . you did not mention where you are at.
 
I have a 3-9x40 Nikon prostaff rimfire2 scope with an adjustable objective on my .22 bolt gun, it’s been a great little scope. I use it for target shooting out to 100y as well as grouse and rabbit hunting, it has a duplex reticle but they offered it in a bdc as well. Great glass for the price, which was somewhere between $218-$225 in 2015 when I bought it.
 
maufic said:
I'm new to shooting and the range I go to only goes out to 200 meters so I bought a CZ 457 american rimfire as a practice rifle. My question is about buying a scope for the rifle. Am I limited to scopes designated as rimfire scopes or can I put any rifle scope on my rimfire rifle? Are there any issues I need to be aware of if I try to mount a non-rimfire scope?

Thanks,
Moro
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If you're new to shooting, and thought to even ask this question-I'd say you're off to a good start! I've read the whole thread, and I know some experienced guys have chimed-in with very good advice...if you understand what parallax issues or parallax error is, or looks like. It can be easy to think you don't have to concern yourself with this aspect of rifle scopes, but if you're shooting under 100 yards (and most 22 shooters are)..it's something you have to consider. In simple terms, if you're having parallax issues, when you look through the scope and move your head slightly up/down, or left/right..it can look like the reticle (crosshairs) are moving while target is not. Wonky shot placement is the result.

I mostly use AO (Adjustable objective) scopes on my 22s, and try to choose ones that allow me to adjust down to under 50 yards. I seldom shoot anything that close, but it happens. :) Someone mentioned Mueller scopes, I once had an APT and thought the glass was very good for the price, and truth be told..I've been looking at the APV in the equipment exchange here recently. Second scope from the right, in the first photo; https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...0356-Zeiss-Bushnell-Mueller?highlight=mueller

Anyhow, proponents of AO will say it gives you more options..and is ideal for 22s. Critics will make the assertion that you have to fuss with them too much, making them a poor choice for hunting. I fall somewhere in between. Most of the modern "rimfire" scopes don't feature AO oddly enough, rather, they have their parallax set @ 50 or 60 yards. Doesn't mean you can't shoot past that without issue, more that you might not get the results you want at distances closer than that. Someone else pointed out that parallax issues are less noticeable at lower magnification-that's also true in my experience, and why I've broken my "AO" rule a couple of times. Most recently on a Nikon P-22. (rimfire model)

As for WHAT scope to get? In 30 years of shooting rimfires enthusiastically (=and still no expert :) ) ...I'm still asking that question. In the $300-ish range..I do like the Sightron S1 4-12 AO (HHR reticle) and the Leopold Freedom Rimfire 3-9X, 60 yard parallax setting. When the budget goes up a bit, I like the nicer Sightrons most.
 
OP - next challenge you will have is selecting rings. I have no clue what size dovetail that your CZ has - they made both "3/8" (with 45 degree angles) and "11mm" with 60 degree angles. If you measure the widest part of your dovetail - near its top, will be 11mm (.430-ish) or .500-ish. If 11mm wide, you need 11mm dovetail rings for a 1" scope; if .500-ish, you will need "3/8" dovetail rings for a 1" scope. Just going through that commotion on a CZ Scout at my house - in my case, turns out to be the 11mm size. You will also have to account for ring height - a big front end on the scope (to clear barrel), or a big eye piece at rear (to clear the bolt), may or may not need higher rings.
 
maufic said:
Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I'm thinking of picking up a Burris Fullfield E1 4.5-14x42. I'm shooting out of Galt Sportsmans club and East Elgin sportsmans club (which actually has a max 300 m range not 200).

https://www.burrisoptics.com/scopes...es-series/fullfield-e1-riflescope-4.5-14x42mm

Thanks,
Moro
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Very nice scope, excellent glass too. I'd never looked at the specs (though I've looked through one) but could see it has SF. Had a look, adjustable from 50 yards out.
 
I had two of the Burris 4.5-14 scopes and they served their purpose. As rifles go and money comes both were upgraded . . . IMO!
The parallax adjusted down to 50 yards. With a grouse at 17yards, the power was set back to 4.5X and he lost his head . . .
A very serviceable scope that will allow you to see your bullet holes in the white at 100 yards.

Earlier there was mention of eye piece/diopter adjustment. From the factory their should be very little adjustment required to get your cross hairs sharp, black and clear. This adjustment is for your eye. No one else should adjust your diopter for their eye.
Lots of scopes have been sold for lack of adjustment. Read the instructions for the scope and you might find minor adjustments are required while you are adjusting to the scope.
 
A lot of guys in our area and our club are using Scorpion scopes lately. Optics and quality are exceptional, and the price is right. They have a transferable life time warranty, and the few problems I have have heard about, they have exchanged for new, no charge, no argument. Good customer service! I put a G-4 on a 17 HMR and it has a ballistic reticle that is adjustable from 100-300 yards... and it works, and it returns to zero when you dial it back to zero. Clarity is amazing. The one I bought has no Paralax, 4 - 14 X 40 and I don't need parallax because I only use it for varmints. For target shooting I would go up one model to the Varminter which is 4 - 16 x 44, and in your case with the .22 LR Reticle.
Scorpion_Product_XT2A3896-Edit-Edit_063739f9-474a-42ab-a075-4948ed88aa33_large.jpg
 
When I am looking for a new scope to put on a .22 rimfire, I look for some thing that I can get to focus at 15 yards or less. That happens to be the length of the indoor range where I get to do most of my shooting in the Winter. In the gopher patch I find I take way more 20 yards or less shots than I do at 200 yd. My ability gets pretty thin past 150 yd anyway. As of late I like Sightron scopes of witch they have many that will focus short.
 
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