Scope Rings - What to Choose?

Potashminer said:
Ring height - I wish I knew how to do that - I was always focused on making sure was high enough that front bell would not hit barrel - but installing a Leupold VX Freedom 2-7 Rimfire scope onto a BRNO No. 1, the bolt handle hit that eye piece, even though there was lots of clearance at front end. I had used Medium height Warne rings - so swapped out to High Warne rings, and then got the bolt handle clearance that was needed - unfortunately that leaves me with a set of Warne Medium height rings, for 16 mm dovetail, not being used.

And times change - at the time, I paid "through the nose" to get those Medium height Warne rings from Great Britain- was NONE available in Canada - but there is suppliers in Canada, now, with them in stock, for about 1/2 price what I paid back then. And a discovery after many installations - is no "standard" among makers what is "low", "medium", or "high" height - one brand to another. I have taken to look on Brownell's web site - they often give an actual dimension from top of scope base to underside of scope body, or centre of scope body - so not really relying on the "words" that describe height - likely want to know the actual dimensions.
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Thanks for the feedback. I'll check the manufactures spec's before buying anything. Make sure the high, is the right fit. Its almost like t-shirt shopping!
 
DerScharfSchutze said:
Wow, she's a beauty! Thanks for sharing. Are those 2 or 4 hole rings, can't quite tell from the photo.

Also, have you heard of Weaver or West Hunter rings? They are on Amazon, and for about $50-$75. Figure its from China / AliBaba. They have excellent reviews, but I do not always take Amazon reviews at face-value.
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Thanks. Its just 2 hole ( A single on each side ) with a single cross bolt to secure the rings to the base. Basic as you can get.

To determine your ring high. Just put something under the scope tube and rail, till you figure the happy spot and measure. This sometimes is known as the saddle height.

The Westhunter are the ones I referred about that I don't really like ( personal pref) But 2 people I shoot with enjoy them.

I run alot of weaver brand on some of my guns. Manly the double strap ones. Set on my M1 carbine, and one on my 30 Herrett pistol..The clamp piece can be a little small.
 
Generally I have found that inexpensive (cheap) rings are made-in-China - as are most "modern" Weaver rings now - so is not so much the rings, as the screws - they strip easily, or heads turn off the shaft when tightening. So, sometimes "cheap to buy" is not cheapest, if you have to hunt down some of those small screws that won't twist off or strip.

That may be compounded by tendency among some people to think if snug is good, then a little tighter will hold better - typically results in my "catastrophes" - so a torque limiting driver is a good thing, and knowing the actual maker's torque specs is better. Generally, do not need much torque to hold a scope on a .22 - so do not need "gorilla grip" "eye-popping" tight - will not actually hold any better. If you are using screws with slotted heads, take time to make or get snug fitting parallel blade screwdriver - won't roll over the edges of the slots like mechanic or householder screw drivers will. Is less of an issue with TORX heads - I really do not like the Allen head type - have had many of them that "strip" - go round inside - can not grab them again.
 
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Lots of good advice already.

There's inexpensive, and there's cheap. Weaver rings are widely available and pretty good value, IMO. Unless you know you won't be happy with anything other than hi-zoot stuff, I'd start there. If you get them and don't like them, it'll help you dial in the ring height that you want, and it's never a bad thing to have extra rings hanging around.
 
It depends on which model scope you have. And the Athlon site doesn't list a 48mm objective, do you mean the 'outside' of the bell is 48mm? And does your rifle have a rail or just dovetail slots? A rail will give you maybe 10mm or so extra height that would be deducted from what a "chart" might suggest. So would mounts attached to the dovetail OR mounted directly. If the barrel is a 'heavy-barrel' that would change things too.
My best suggestion is to get some 'in person' advice, preferably from someone NOT selling you the rings.
PS - One of my 22s has only 1/32" clearance of the front bell to the barrel. NO Probs and shoots 1/2" groups.
 
alpining said:
Lots of good advice already.

There's inexpensive, and there's cheap. Weaver rings are widely available and pretty good value, IMO. Unless you know you won't be happy with anything other than hi-zoot stuff, I'd start there. If you get them and don't like them, it'll help you dial in the ring height that you want, and it's never a bad thing to have extra rings hanging around.
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For sure that can become a dilemma - as I showed a local guy, is like several dozen ring sets here that were removed and replaced for one reason or another - maybe not "styled" appropriately, but lets one "dial in" the height that you want to order. But not really an effective solution for someone who installs one scope on one rifle in his life-time. As with many things, is a whole plethora of things usually not thought of ahead of time - to mount one scope or 25 scopes - end up with proper shaped screw drivers, torque limiting screw driver, base(s) for the rifle(s), some sort of loctite or sealer for the threads for the bases, lapping bars and "goop" to verify that the ring saddles are actually aligned, and so on. Then change your mind and have to undo your previous work and reinstall the newest idea.
 
With rings I generally stick to Burris Zee rings or Leupold prw rings, both are well made and not overly expensive. Have yet to have a problem with either of them on multiple rifles, have a set of Weaver Grand slam QD rings as well that seem plenty robust.
 
Potashminer said:
For sure that can become a dilemma - as I showed a local guy, is like several dozen ring sets here that were removed and replaced for one reason or another - maybe not "styled" appropriately, but lets one "dial in" the height that you want to order. But not really an effective solution for someone who installs one scope on one rifle in his life-time. As with many things, is a whole plethora of things usually not thought of ahead of time - to mount one scope or 25 scopes - end up with proper shaped screw drivers, torque limiting screw driver, base(s) for the rifle(s), some sort of loctite or sealer for the threads for the bases, lapping bars and "goop" to verify that the ring saddles are actually aligned, and so on. Then change your mind and have to undo your previous work and reinstall the newest idea.
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I got my Torque wrench for under 70$.

I consider tools an investment. The torque wrench can be used for more than just scope rings. But we often seen back in the day. Rings tighten too tight and seeing damaged scope tubes and passed it off as it something that just happens. Back in the good and tight day. Dad taught me to tighten lug nuts till you cannot tighten anymore, plus more. But this day and age, you do that and you warp rotors.

Action screw torque plays a good role in accuracy. I know what they call for what my stock should be, performs worst.

A good set of screw drivers prevent damaged screw heads.
 
Buck1950 said:
It depends on which model scope you have. And the Athlon site doesn't list a 48mm objective, do you mean the 'outside' of the bell is 48mm? And does your rifle have a rail or just dovetail slots? A rail will give you maybe 10mm or so extra height that would be deducted from what a "chart" might suggest. So would mounts attached to the dovetail OR mounted directly. If the barrel is a 'heavy-barrel' that would change things too.
My best suggestion is to get some 'in person' advice, preferably from someone NOT selling you the rings.
PS - One of my 22s has only 1/32" clearance of the front bell to the barrel. NO Probs and shoots 1/2" groups.
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The scope I bought is the 4-12x40mm and the spec sheet says that the outer housing has a diameter of ~48mm. The rifle has a 30MOA pic rail on it. Its a rimfire, so it has a steel alloy 1137 barrel, not sure if that is considered a heavy-barrel.

I will try to talk to some people. I have joined a range and there were several people who seem very knowledgable. I will ask them and see what comes up.

Thanks again.
 
Butcherbill said:
With rings I generally stick to Burris Zee rings or Leupold prw rings, both are well made and not overly expensive. Have yet to have a problem with either of them on multiple rifles, have a set of Weaver Grand slam QD rings as well that seem plenty robust.
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Great thanks! Appreciate the feedback.
 
It should be possible if you have rifle, scope and base in hand, to "mock up" something to establish the ring height dimension that you want, that gets barrel clearance and bolt handle clearance. Modelling clay, wood shims, loose nuts, etc. Front ring and rear ring will be identical height to each other when you buy a set. You will have to work out what height difference that 30 MOA base makes in the spacing distance for the rings. (0.033", if your rings are 4" apart on that rail) Is typical that the scope centreline is close to parallel to the centreline of the bore, or tipped forward slightly (a smidgeon lower in the front). That might be a bit more exaggerated with that 30 MOA rail.

Thinking some more about that - likely no need for calculations - the rail is already a given - so just focus on what height do you need to clearance barrel on front and bolt handle on rear, knowing that both front and rear rings that will go on that rail, will be the same height to each other.
 
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I don't have a firearm only high power PCP airguns - if that counts for my input.
I have several adjustable height rings from "expensive" to really cheap from amazon, and all works well, for same distance you would be shooting with your 22LR. Set and forget.
And I am swapping three scopes between two rifles there and back depend what game I want to play today, it was a bit of elbow greasing adjusting the angles but works well for anything in between 20 and 100 yards/meters.
These are well known high quality rings:
https://eaglevisioncam.com/product-category/scope-mount
The one I have is this on my 50-100-150 meter target rig:
https://eaglevisioncam.com/shop/sco...stable-scope-mount-30mm-ring-picatinny-ips-30
Eaglevisioncam is specialized store.
 
OkayShooter said:
I got my Torque wrench for under 70$.

I consider tools an investment. The torque wrench can be used for more than just scope rings. But we often seen back in the day. Rings tighten too tight and seeing damaged scope tubes and passed it off as it something that just happens. Back in the good and tight day. Dad taught me to tighten lug nuts till you cannot tighten anymore, plus more. But this day and age, you do that and you warp rotors.

Action screw torque plays a good role in accuracy. I know what they call for what my stock should be, performs worst.

A good set of screw drivers prevent damaged screw heads.
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100% I take pride in my tools, and spend on higher grade things, and it makes a huge difference.

I have different sized torque wrench from automotive to hobby, so I would be sure to torque any optics to spec.

Thanks again!
 
Ring height calculator, pretty easy to use and obviously it depends a lot if you have a full rail or a hunting rifle style setup, plus consider the rear sight,

https://www.scopedout.com.au/ring-height-calculator/

I have all kind of scope rings, don't like buying new because the value drops really A LOT. Some of the Chinese made ones are just the same as the cheaper ones they sell here for half the price. Some are just junk. Yes, Cabelas has a good selection. The Vortex tactical are ok, Burris Zee rings, no need to spend more than $100. MDT if you want a bit more fancy, some setups require cantilever mounts with a 20 MOA (if you run out of adjustments or space). Cantilever mounts are higher, hence you usually need a 20 MOA.
 
Look on the EE and buy a set of quality rings . Look on the EE at how many scopes have dented tubes or ring marks. This is caused by cheap rings and over tightening. If you can spend $500 plus for a scope then a quality set of rings should be a no brainer. No scope problems, no let downs with failure or damage and a pristine used glass if you decide to upgrade or change. Buy once and dont cry about a damaged optic from cheap chinese junk.
 
Longstud said:
Look on the EE and buy a set of quality rings . Look on the EE at how many scopes have dented tubes or ring marks. This is caused by cheap rings and over tightening. If you can spend $500 plus for a scope then a quality set of rings should be a no brainer. No scope problems, no let downs with failure or damage and a pristine used glass if you decide to upgrade or change. Buy once and dont cry about a damaged optic from cheap chinese junk.
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This can also happen from installation, tightening one side unevenly first for example, or over torqueing.
 
For my 22's I use Vortex Pro rings. They are around $100.
For anything centerfire I use the Vortex precision matched rings which are made by Seekins.
 
fritzhanzel said:
This can also happen from installation, tightening one side unevenly first for example, or over torqueing.
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If your that unqualified then you should be visiting a gun smith. Hence why I quoted " Over tightening and cheap Chinese junk." Even tightened evenly theyll mark your tube. Quality rings are machined in pairs on multi axis high end lathes and mills. Like life, you get what you pay for. Buy once and cry once. Ive had tubes scratched just from putting the top ring cap on.
 
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