Scope set-up help

B

Brendon292

CGN Regular
Rating - 98.8%
81   1   0
Location
Kingston, ON
Looking for some guidance on a scope set-up for my Ruger 10/22 Competition.

I currently have a red dot on it, which is fun, but it's getting a little boring. I'm interested in trying out my first magnified optic. I'm planning to do a Mapleseed and perhaps some club level competition.

I think I've narrowed the scope I want down to the Arken SH-4 Gen 2. It has good reviews and seems to be the right balance between cost and performance (though, I'd entertain other options, feel free to recommend).

My Ruger has a 30MOA picatinny rail, so I'm guessing the mount/rings I get are okay at 0MOA?

Being reasonably budget conscious, does anybody have a mount/rings I should go with? The scope has 34mm tube.

I feel like a huge noob. This is all so confusing.
 
Brendon, I went thru a similar issue a few years ago But I didn't ask for help. My problem ended up being the Athlon 8-34x56 scope I chose Only had 45 MOA TOTAL Adjustment so the 30MOA rail was too much for 100-yd targets. I had to buy Burris XTR Sig rings and put 'minus 10' rings in so I could 'remove' some MOA to 'get down' to the 100, final MOA = 20. And shooting out to 175 I need to reduce mag to ca 24 to keep the target on the bottom hash marks. SO, check your specs carefully. And consider ALL possible uses you plan. The 30* rail may not be what you need if you plan shorter distances.
 
Brendon292 said:
Looking for some guidance on a scope set-up for my Ruger 10/22 Competition.

I currently have a red dot on it, which is fun, but it's getting a little boring. I'm interested in trying out my first magnified optic. I'm planning to do a Mapleseed and perhaps some club level competition.

I think I've narrowed the scope I want down to the Arken SH-4 Gen 2. It has good reviews and seems to be the right balance between cost and performance (though, I'd entertain other options, feel free to recommend).

My Ruger has a 30MOA picatinny rail, so I'm guessing the mount/rings I get are okay at 0MOA?

Being reasonably budget conscious, does anybody have a mount/rings I should go with? The scope has 34mm tube.

I feel like a huge noob. This is all so confusing.
Click to expand...
Here's what I did (different rifle, CZ457), I went with a RITON 6-24 x, I liked the features, liked the warranty, love the value and the reliability based on one of their 4-16 x I have on a 6.5 x 55 varmint rifle.

I put the scope on the rifle using dovetail rings and zeroed it on the indoor 20 yard range, then I dialed it up all the way to the top, and then back to zero. Then I dialed it all the way down. counting the MOAs each side of zero.

I determined that if i put a 40 MOA rail on it, I could still zero at 20 and have 6 moa down travel; dial up about 6 1/4 moa for a 100 yard zero, which would leave enough adjustment to dial up to 350+ yards. I am running weaver steel rings, quite low ones.

BTW, the math worked; I have about 2 years on this setup, and love it!
 
dont know about anyone else. But none of my 22lr or guys at my club have had the scope mounted and been anywhere close to the center of adjustment range. Thats why we all use the Burris signature zee rings with offset inserts, to get max available elev. Burris makes 34mm rings with inserts but they are pricey. But if you're getting into formal shoots and competitions then it should be considered.
 
LeftFootOfDoom said:
dont know about anyone else. But none of my 22lr or guys at my club have had the scope mounted and been anywhere close to the center of adjustment range. Thats why we all use the Burris signature zee rings with offset inserts, to get max available elev. Burris makes 34mm rings with inserts but they are pricey. But if you're getting into formal shoots and competitions then it should be considered.
Click to expand...
Indeed, that is the purpose of the right rail/rings (honestly, first time I have heard about these rings; for me, 50 years+ shooting, I have never heard of them, and likely neither have the rest of us who shoot precission/benchrest); to allow for dial up/down from minimum range out past max. Past maximum dial up, that is what hash marks on the reticle are for. The reticle I went for has minimal clutter, because I dial. I don't need a big grid patern . If you keep it simple, there are less varriables to contend with.
1778327903266.pngScreenshot 2025-11-26 060347.jpg
 
Last edited:
OkayShooter said:
Honestly if you are going to do the mapleseed. Buy a cheap simmons 3-9. Keep the weight down. Low mag and with 32mm obj can mount it lower.

Then change the scope after.
Click to expand...

I was actually considering getting a Vortex Crossfire for Mapleseed and plinking at the range. If I like shooting with something magnified, I could upgrade from there and sell the Crossfire.
 
JMO but if you do you should go for the VMTR in whatever stock you prefer. The barrel comes in several style stocks and will give you the est accuracy for the $$. Also, you could go for a Tikka for just a little more. And consider watching the EE as there's always someone 'moving up' to save you a few bucks. And I've bought several where the owner 'just didn't like it' and only fired "50 rounds or so" and saved me mucho dinero. I have a borescope and can tell when it 'really was' just a few rounds.
 
Buck1950 said:
JMO but if you do you should go for the VMTR in whatever stock you prefer. The barrel comes in several style stocks and will give you the est accuracy for the $$. Also, you could go for a Tikka for just a little more. And consider watching the EE as there's always someone 'moving up' to save you a few bucks. And I've bought several where the owner 'just didn't like it' and only fired "50 rounds or so" and saved me mucho dinero. I have a borescope and can tell when it 'really was' just a few rounds.
Click to expand...

I was looking at borescopes on amazon and wondering if the ones that work thru a phone are any good or should go with one that has it's own screen. Not looking to go pro and spend a ton but would like something that will do .22 to .30 cal and up with side view. Also wanting a torque driver and think I found a decent one geared for guns with a selection of specialty tips for various makes for around $80.

What have you got for a scope and how do you like it?
 
Hurtin - The teslong NT100 is what I've got, they have an 'upgraded' one with USB-C connector, too. - https://www.amazon.ca/Teslong-Borescope-Flexible-Cleaning-Compatible/dp/B0DRP8LPF8/ref=sr_1_3
This will plug into a laptop or phone or PC - I use my 15" laptop so I can see the pics clearly. A phone would be too small IMO, even if you zoom it large you wouldn't have the 'full-screen' view at one time. The mirrors give you the 'side view' and are depth-adjustable for diff calibers.
On my 22s I use an Athlon Argos 8-34 x 56 FFP (see post #2) but if I get a dif scope I'll go with MORE 'x' ! The 34x is great out to 100 yds, but for more I need to reduce the 'x' to about 20 to keep the lower hatchmarks in the view. As I said above the prob was NOT having enough Vertical Adjustment to use the 30-MOA, so had to reduce that to 20MOA. 'Other' scopes have more MOA adjustment But to get that you reduce the 'Mag-x' and usually have to also go to SFP which I don't care for. Some people are OK with that but Not for me.
As for the torque driver, I started with the Wheeler but it doesn't have 'fine tuning' that I prefer. I went with a Chinese digital that cost about $100, prob like the one you found. Mine is no longer avail, they switched to a 'wrench-style' instead of the s-driver type.
 
Buck1950 said:
Hurtin - The teslong NT100 is what I've got, they have an 'upgraded' one with USB-C connector, too. - https://www.amazon.ca/Teslong-Borescope-Flexible-Cleaning-Compatible/dp/B0DRP8LPF8/ref=sr_1_3
This will plug into a laptop or phone or PC - I use my 15" laptop so I can see the pics clearly. A phone would be too small IMO, even if you zoom it large you wouldn't have the 'full-screen' view at one time. The mirrors give you the 'side view' and are depth-adjustable for diff calibers.
On my 22s I use an Athlon Argos 8-34 x 56 FFP (see post #2) but if I get a dif scope I'll go with MORE 'x' ! The 34x is great out to 100 yds, but for more I need to reduce the 'x' to about 20 to keep the lower hatchmarks in the view. As I said above the prob was NOT having enough Vertical Adjustment to use the 30-MOA, so had to reduce that to 20MOA. 'Other' scopes have more MOA adjustment But to get that you reduce the 'Mag-x' and usually have to also go to SFP which I don't care for. Some people are OK with that but Not for me.
As for the torque driver, I started with the Wheeler but it doesn't have 'fine tuning' that I prefer. I went with a Chinese digital that cost about $100, prob like the one you found. Mine is no longer avail, they switched to a 'wrench-style' instead of the s-driver type.
Click to expand...

That looks perfect! Should look great on my 27" monitor and work like the 60-1000X microscope I have. Thanks for the hookup.

As a longtime gun owner but a newbie to the finer details and nomenclature what is this finer tuning I should maybe look for in a torque driver?

You really figure you need more than 34X on a .22? I've been thinking of selling my Nikko Stirling Diamond 10-50X60 NATO as I figured it's more than I need but might work on one of the Savage Mark II FV or FV-SR bolt action .22s I got recently to really reach out. The shorter FV-SR came with a Buckner Evolution 6-24x50 SF which seems like a lot but nice to be able to zoom in enough to see my hits on a paper target at 100yds.

I need to get back out there and get rid of more dandelion flowers with the string mower if my bum wrist holds out but will be back in an hour or two. I put a good headlight on it so don't have to stop when it gets dark and that's not until 11 now way up north here. :)
 
Hurtin North Albertan said:
That looks perfect! Should look great on my 27" monitor and work like the 60-1000X microscope I have. Thanks for the hookup.

As a longtime gun owner but a newbie to the finer details and nomenclature what is this finer tuning I should maybe look for in a torque driver?

You really figure you need more than 34X on a .22? I've been thinking of selling my Nikko Stirling Diamond 10-50X60 NATO as I figured it's more than I need but might work on one of the Savage Mark II FV or FV-SR bolt action .22s I got recently to really reach out. The shorter FV-SR came with a Buckner Evolution 6-24x50 SF which seems like a lot but nice to be able to zoom in enough to see my hits on a paper target at 100yds.

I need to get back out there and get rid of more dandelion flowers with the string mower if my bum wrist holds out but will be back in an hour or two. I put a good headlight on it so don't have to stop when it gets dark and that's not until 11 now way up north here. :)
Click to expand...
Good advice regarding the Teslong, I don't use my phone. I have the Wheeler and it works well enough for me. I have a NF 15-55 on my target rifle. Now that I've had it I would never use less. Depends on the target you are shooting. I had three shots today that were in by 1,3 and 5 thousandths of an inch ... it usually goes the other way.

I was in Grade 5 in High Level in the 60s ... you north of there.
 
Last edited:
Williwaw said:
Good advice regarding the Teslong, I don't use my phone. I have the Wheeler and it works well enough for me. I have a NF 15-55 on my target rifle. Now that I've had it I would never use less. Depends on the target you are shooting. I had three shots today that were in by 1,3 and 5 thousandths of an inch ... it usually goes the other way.

I was in Grade 5 in High Level in the 60s ... you north of there.
Click to expand...

Peace River way. 15 years or so ago I was working for Superior Propane and working out of Zama City so went thru High Level every 2 weeks.

Sounds like good shooting. What's the target rifle and the distance you were pounding those tacks in?

I've had guns all my life starting with a Red Ryder BB gun I got for Xmas when I was about 9 or 10. All my shooting since was plinking style and for decades the .303 I got in '77 was mostly a safe queen with whatever else I had at the time. Sitting around doing nothing after I retired a couple years early for health reasons 8 years ago was not doing me any good so I decided to get back to my first loves. Fishing, building rods, tying flies and jigs and of course shooting. Had to go take the class to get a PAL a couple years ago and have bought 8 guns since. lol 11 rod blanks and lots of stuff that goes with that hobby, a 12' tinny and a quad trailer to haul it around in.

I bought that big scope for the .303 to see how far I can hit something. With the price of ammo around here throwing a lot of $3 bullets downrange didn't make much sense so I decided to go with .22 to learn all the fine points of long range shooting first. I can get up to 200yds in my yard for the .22s or shotties but have to go about 4 miles to an old gravel pit for the centerfire rifles and only have about 125yds there. Gun club about 30 min away has up to 1000yds. Would like to go hunting for my first time this fall so thinking maybe the Peace River club too, tho they are 500yds max I think, as I'm more likely to hook up with someone willing to take an old rookie out and show him the ropes. Not a morning person tho. I'm at my best from mid afternoon 'til 3 or 4am. Was out running that string mower until 1:30am tonight and got a lot done.

I've been watching this husband and wife ELR shooting team that are in Australia on Utube. He does some amazing shots out to 4000yds and less, soup can at a mile, etc. Lots of instructional videos too. Check out 'MarkandSam After Work' if you haven't seen them already.
 
Hurtin - The 'fine tuning' I spoke of was about the 'analog' Wheeler, not their Digital as I've never usesd one. The analog you just 'turn the base' to adjust the 'clik-release' and it's just not very accurate with only 5-ip marks using a 'fat' red line for delineation. IMO only 'ballpark adjustments. When I torque things my digital driver can be set within 1-ip, like 21-ip for the action screws on my CZ-VMTR, then 35-ip for the barrel grubs.
As for the 34x scope, yes I'm using that since I shoot 'sub-MOA' groups at 50 and close to MOA at 100. Aim small, hit small. You can't get that fine an accuracy without a 'bench rest rig' with even a 24x - I used to have that on the CZ before I got 'better'. I can see the legs of the flies on the targets, but I don't always hit 'em.
Williwaw, I'd love to get a NF scope but I can't bring myself to do that when I don't shoot competitions. None around me within 100 miles. These ( I've got 2 ) Athlon Argos only cost ca $600 so I've got plenty 'x' for now.
And 'Mark and Sam' do some fine shooting Down Under. I've been watching them for a few years now.
 
I'm scoring my targets according to the American Rimfire Association which is 50 yard benchrest. I'm prone off a bipod and rear bag and I just shoot at a line grid. Targets get scanned and digitally measured for score. Right now I'm using an Anshutz 1913.

I had a Sightron and it didn't stand up to the quads, snowmobile and weather. I shoot everyday it is above 0F ... rain shine or snow. I've stood up and poured water down the barrel channel.

One word about getting going shooting. I find it a little disappointing that guys tend to be disparaging of other disciplines. Just find what turns your crank and go for it. I saw a comment recently saying no one posts groups any more. In the first place some of us aren't even shooting groups. Like you I just came back to shooting a few years back and getting a PAL was my first step. Careful though, if you do long range and you figure out how calm the winds are in the morning you might start getting out of bed before noon. LOL
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom