Scope set-up help

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Brendon292

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Looking for some guidance on a scope set-up for my Ruger 10/22 Competition.

I currently have a red dot on it, which is fun, but it's getting a little boring. I'm interested in trying out my first magnified optic. I'm planning to do a Mapleseed and perhaps some club level competition.

I think I've narrowed the scope I want down to the Arken SH-4 Gen 2. It has good reviews and seems to be the right balance between cost and performance (though, I'd entertain other options, feel free to recommend).

My Ruger has a 30MOA picatinny rail, so I'm guessing the mount/rings I get are okay at 0MOA?

Being reasonably budget conscious, does anybody have a mount/rings I should go with? The scope has 34mm tube.

I feel like a huge noob. This is all so confusing.
 
Brendon, I went thru a similar issue a few years ago But I didn't ask for help. My problem ended up being the Athlon 8-34x56 scope I chose Only had 45 MOA TOTAL Adjustment so the 30MOA rail was too much for 100-yd targets. I had to buy Burris XTR Sig rings and put 'minus 10' rings in so I could 'remove' some MOA to 'get down' to the 100, final MOA = 20. And shooting out to 175 I need to reduce mag to ca 24 to keep the target on the bottom hash marks. SO, check your specs carefully. And consider ALL possible uses you plan. The 30* rail may not be what you need if you plan shorter distances.
 
Brendon292 said:
Looking for some guidance on a scope set-up for my Ruger 10/22 Competition.

I currently have a red dot on it, which is fun, but it's getting a little boring. I'm interested in trying out my first magnified optic. I'm planning to do a Mapleseed and perhaps some club level competition.

I think I've narrowed the scope I want down to the Arken SH-4 Gen 2. It has good reviews and seems to be the right balance between cost and performance (though, I'd entertain other options, feel free to recommend).

My Ruger has a 30MOA picatinny rail, so I'm guessing the mount/rings I get are okay at 0MOA?

Being reasonably budget conscious, does anybody have a mount/rings I should go with? The scope has 34mm tube.

I feel like a huge noob. This is all so confusing.
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Here's what I did (different rifle, CZ457), I went with a RITON 6-24 x, I liked the features, liked the warranty, love the value and the reliability based on one of their 4-16 x I have on a 6.5 x 55 varmint rifle.

I put the scope on the rifle using dovetail rings and zeroed it on the indoor 20 yard range, then I dialed it up all the way to the top, and then back to zero. Then I dialed it all the way down. counting the MOAs each side of zero.

I determined that if i put a 40 MOA rail on it, I could still zero at 20 and have 6 moa down travel; dial up about 6 1/4 moa for a 100 yard zero, which would leave enough adjustment to dial up to 350+ yards. I am running weaver steel rings, quite low ones.

BTW, the math worked; I have about 2 years on this setup, and love it!
 
dont know about anyone else. But none of my 22lr or guys at my club have had the scope mounted and been anywhere close to the center of adjustment range. Thats why we all use the Burris signature zee rings with offset inserts, to get max available elev. Burris makes 34mm rings with inserts but they are pricey. But if you're getting into formal shoots and competitions then it should be considered.
 
LeftFootOfDoom said:
dont know about anyone else. But none of my 22lr or guys at my club have had the scope mounted and been anywhere close to the center of adjustment range. Thats why we all use the Burris signature zee rings with offset inserts, to get max available elev. Burris makes 34mm rings with inserts but they are pricey. But if you're getting into formal shoots and competitions then it should be considered.
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Indeed, that is the purpose of the right rail/rings (honestly, first time I have heard about these rings; for me, 50 years+ shooting, I have never heard of them, and likely neither have the rest of us who shoot precission/benchrest); to allow for dial up/down from minimum range out past max. Past maximum dial up, that is what hash marks on the reticle are for. The reticle I went for has minimal clutter, because I dial. I don't need a big grid patern . If you keep it simple, there are less varriables to contend with.
1778327903266.pngScreenshot 2025-11-26 060347.jpg
 
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OkayShooter said:
Honestly if you are going to do the mapleseed. Buy a cheap simmons 3-9. Keep the weight down. Low mag and with 32mm obj can mount it lower.

Then change the scope after.
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I was actually considering getting a Vortex Crossfire for Mapleseed and plinking at the range. If I like shooting with something magnified, I could upgrade from there and sell the Crossfire.
 
JMO but if you do you should go for the VMTR in whatever stock you prefer. The barrel comes in several style stocks and will give you the est accuracy for the $$. Also, you could go for a Tikka for just a little more. And consider watching the EE as there's always someone 'moving up' to save you a few bucks. And I've bought several where the owner 'just didn't like it' and only fired "50 rounds or so" and saved me mucho dinero. I have a borescope and can tell when it 'really was' just a few rounds.
 
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