Scope slipping in the rings

AP said:
Do you mean that each shot displaces the tube 3/16th of an inch to the front? or that the rings are displaced 3/16ths farther to the rear on the scope tube? I dont think its advisable to place the mounts so close that they both abut the saddle
Click to expand...

You're right, the scope is moving forward in the rings, my mistake; basically it's a case of the rifle riding backwards with the recoil and the scope staying where it was (a little bit)
 
lupothebutcher said:
You mean the gap between the upper half and the lower half of the rings? Yes, there is more room to sinch it down tighter but the allen heads want to strip out.
Click to expand...

There is invariably a gap between the upper and lower halves, even when appropriately tightened. You want to be careful not to tighten so much as to pinch the scope tube. Scope rings have recommended torque values and they ought to be observed.
 
grauhanen said:
There is invariably a gap between the upper and lower halves, even when appropriately tightened. You want to be careful not to tighten so much as to pinch the scope tube. Scope rings have recommended torque values and they ought to be observed.
Click to expand...
Right; I believe that it's only about 15-18 lbs per bolt. Again, I don't have a torque wrench but I have been careful not to over-tighten.
 
I think you are trying to fix a problem, rather than replacing the problem...

IMHO new rings are in order... At the cost of each round fired from 50BMG, new rings are a small investment...

Cheers
Jay
 
Your screws may be bottoming out, may be too long. Check by removing the optic and tighten the caps and make sure there is no play on the mating parts.
 
I always put a drop of Locktite on the saddle of the ring and do a finale torque the next day after it is set - so the Locktite can work like lapping the rings.

When I remove a scope, the Locktite scrapes off very easily with a fingernail and leaves the scope looking new - and the rings too.

If the rings have been lapped too much, or if sticky pads which the rings are designed for are gone, that can be a problem.

Six-screw rings are a good way to crush a scope - better to put another matching ring or two on if there is room.
 
Jay said:
I think you are trying to fix a problem, rather than replacing the problem...

IMHO new rings are in order... At the cost of each round fired from 50BMG, new rings are a small investment...

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

+1.

You have unknown rings that came with the scope. I say invest a few bucks in good rings and it will solve you problem. Near definitely good, you can also check Warne, Badger, PRS, Seekins.

The biggest problem is that there is many company out there selling rings, most out of Asian country. They work on 223 but on a 50 BMG you need reputable brand that guarantee they will work.

GST
 
gstprecision said:
+1.

You have unknown rings that came with the scope. I say invest a few bucks in good rings and it will solve you problem. Near definitely good, you can also check Warne, Badger, PRS, Seekins.

The biggest problem is that there is many company out there selling rings, most out of Asian country. They work on 223 but on a 50 BMG you need reputable brand that guarantee they will work.

GST
Click to expand...

I'm not so sure....The rings are OEM Millett rings that are supplied with the scope; the scope is made for .338 Lapua / .50 bmg. It looks like the mounting tape that I was hoping to use is too thick so I'll try the loctite, if that doesn't work, then I'll buy a new scope but I may even buy another Millett LRS because I really do like the scope.
 
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