Scoping a M-10 Ross

Had another go with 4350 and 4064 and 4 different bullets. The 4064/ Barnes 168 TSX did the best (upper right)

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Then I cleaned it and borescoped it. After paying $350.00 to have it rebored/rerifled this was a bad surprise !

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Waiting to hear from those who did the work.
 
Bore scope photos look a bit scary. Groups show promising shooting results. The ragged surface might foul, but it looks as if the bullet is being nicely stabilized.
The cartridge is certainly an attractive option for M-10s with poor bores.
 
Folks, the rebore/rerifle job is horrible. I have had 5 done by JES and they look like a new bore. This looks like it was lapped with 60 grit paper and finding lands and grooves is almost impossible.
 
Agree wholeheartedly on that observation. Looks like a concrete sidewalk.

I have had rebores done by Alvaan Petersen at the Rifle Ranch in Rverhurst, SK, more than forty years ago, and by Ron Kendal Smith as well since then. Didn't have a bore scope, but they all looked like new and shot better than before in the original bores.

Having said that, I wouldn't give up hope yet. My guess is if you can get past the horrible bore, you may find improved accuracy when loading to get higher velocity. I wouldn't be the first time that happened.

Ted
 
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Sorry I expect them to make it right or I'll be forced to warn others on the 20 odd forums I belong to.

JES has done a bunch for me and they are all sub MOA rifles.
 
Not suggesting Oregongunsmithing shouldn't make it right. As per my previous post, my experience with rebores has always been the same as yours with JES. Just that I have often seen mediocre accuracy when cartridges are loaded down.

If you are loading for only 308 Win velocity in that case, your 308 Ross is certainly in that arena.

Ted
 
Ted, I own several 30 caliber Magnums. They all shoot just as well with 308/30-06 level loads as they do with full house magnums.

Velocity does not improve accuracy.
 
The problem encountered with the Ross rifles in WW I was that when operated strenuously, the bolt stop would batter the left rear locking lug. You could slam the bolt locked closed, and then not be able to withdraw it. If you examine that lug on your ROSS, you will probably find it a little deformed from ordinary use.

CHRIS
 
RGChris said:
The problem encountered with the Ross rifles in WW I was that when operated strenuously, the bolt stop would batter the left rear locking lug. You could slam the bolt locked closed, and then not be able to withdraw it. If you examine that lug on your ROSS, you will probably find it a little deformed from ordinary use.

CHRIS
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That issue, among many others, were fixed quickly and you are unlikely to find problematic parts on any rifle these days.
 
As Blastattack has stated, the issue was quickly rectified. However, I have replaced chipped boltheads on Mk IIIs, and still have a few chipped boltheads kicking around in the junk box. I had the good fortune to purchase what I believe were the last good boltheads in the Numrich inventory. It would be wise to check the bolthead on any Mk III just to ensure there is no damage.
 
And here's the final word:

Just a heads up should any of you contemplate having a barrel rebored/rerifled.
I spent $350 with OregonGunsmithing to have my 280 Ross rifle rebored to .308 (the 280 case necked up)
The photos below show what I got back.
When I raised my concerns I was told:

Old steel rifle barrels are pourus.
Our site has a disclaimer denying any liability.

Having had 10 plus rifles rebored by others w/o such issues, I'd urge caution.

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EBY07S9.jpg


CsED8fD.jpg
 
Ross1910280 said:
And here's the final word:

Just a heads up should any of you contemplate having a barrel rebored/rerifled.
I spent $350 with OregonGunsmithing to have my 280 Ross rifle rebored to .308 (the 280 case necked up)
The photos below show what I got back.
When I raised my concerns I was told:

Old steel rifle barrels are pourus.
Our site has a disclaimer denying any liability.

Having had 10 plus rifles rebored by others w/o such issues, I'd urge caution.

J3LoTwt.jpg


EBY07S9.jpg


CsED8fD.jpg
Click to expand...

They should have advised you that what you were asking should not be attempted. A rebore from 7mm to .30 is far too small to clear out the old rifling and prepare a nice bore for the next set of rifling. Minimum would be 8mm, but .338 would be even safer.
 
Agree on .287 to .308. They never said a thing. Once they drilled it out, they should have called me and sid NO GO. But Nooooo they just rifled it over the old pitting, made some horrible attempt to lap it, charged me another 50 bucks to send it back AND will do nothing to correct their incompetence !

I am on about 50 forums. The news is getting out.
 
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