Scorpio EM332A mods - making a silk purse from a sow's ear

It's 1/2-20, I gauged mine tonight.


Also shot a few rounds at 50y. Hard to tell if it'll get better with time as I wear in the barrel. I doubt these are cold-hammer forged and perfect out of the box. Best seems to be a 3grp .39"/.78 MOA
(Circles are 1.25" inside with a .34 dot)

 
Is this how the 20" trigger is made as well? How do I disassemble to polish and replace the spring? It's all just rivets.

 
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Average was 1.29" including those massive flyers.... take them out and the average is 0.84". I was hoping that lapua XACT would stop having flyers but this lot (old stuff, last stuff at another dealer) obviously was not their best lot.

100yds, light winds, hot/humid. Still looking for a good lot of ammo to get rid of these flyers. But still very impressed with this rifle.

Jerry
 

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No. It seems to all be rivets. After deer season I'll add a screw to adjust for over travel.


Shot this week's ago but just posting now, for anyone curious. Shot off a front rest and a sand bad rear. First shots of the day at 50y

 
Jahnj0584 said:
No. It seems to all be rivets. After deer season I'll add a screw to adjust for over travel.


Shot this week's ago but just posting now, for anyone curious. Shot off a front rest and a sand bad rear. First shots of the day at 50y

Click to expand...

Like my 332A's, the 332X's respond well to SK rifle match, Lapua CenterX/Midas+

It likes good quality ammo.

Jerry
 
Looking back on this thread for spring tips, my trigger looks way different then the 2 posted here. My trigger is actually 3pcs...ill attach pics later.

Jerry, how did you remove the front sights?
 
Made a spring tonight. Pull is now 2.3# down from 3.8#.

See how mine is different? I find it weird that a company would go through the pain of having THREE+ different versions of a trigger assembly.



 
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Just in case anyone here wants a couple more rounds in their mags and doesn't check the NS522 thread, here's a +2 mag base I made with my 3d printer. PRS match directors here really like 12 round stages. It works with the original spring and everything, and feeds great. I tested the prototype at the range yesterday, but it didn't have any way to keep it in place on the magazine, so I added a boss for an M3 screw, now I'm golden. I might modify it a bit more to recess the screw further and make the bottom flat so it can stand up better, but it's not too big a deal.
SUkPuYvs4vo--i-eLef0Fdms0M-pNOF6UYfqoNvv20nbMC5LeDZ7Pr_5V2immZqTyd1N1RLLoD7X01yjqptBo5AjvaWVNoIKZLQHxI4t5durgUzYX57rP2GPTsnMqsnBw3m9ieWBnDU=w2400


1uoMO0fn3sJ1RxlV31jX1HhFKBNb8iYe9b-G3XhYvIHmJFhDTr7m_Di_PCInFX2L6Ph9zhudET0nTTkSCJMZ30y1r905SopiHhfkRt5rhHIHxIvEK4tCJzgR2K8SMyVU3ZUZj4l1irs=w2400

Kristian
 
Just printed my first part... needed some internal clean up to remove the flashing, and smoothing cause likely my printing is a bit 'fat'... but it works great.

Thanks

Got 4 more printing now...

Jerry

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My bolt sits flush with the bottom... nice job. I did add a little thin CA to the outside to help bind the layers... also some med CA on the inside to provide a smooth surface for the spring and follower to stop binding.
 

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Looks good Jerry. I made the recess for the screw deeper this morning, had some time early on at work to play with it. The cavity is pretty snug for the follower, but when it was wide open it seemed to get hung up. I might use your idea with the ca to toughen up the plastic a bit, don't want one breaking it it gets dropped.
Kristian
 
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Drenching the part in thin (thin like water) CA will go a long ways to making it 'solid'... the print layers are quite pourous so this fills things in nicely and the CA welds the PLA together.

You can do alot of smoothing too using a med (thicker) CA ... that is what I did to the inside of the part to ensure the spring doesn't snag on the layers/burrs.

Will finish up the 4 parts I just printed and will refine how I finish the part. I will play with the internal dimensions for the follower... 1st part is a snugg'ish fit... I will likely go a bit looser on the 2nd one so the follower will drop free

Great work... and Thanks

Jerry
 
I printed mine standing on the front edge with supports for the internal parts, doesn't seem to need much cleaning up and the spring and follower don't have layer lines to catch on. I figured this would also make the lip that catches the flange at the bottom of the magazine stronger, because I'm not relying on just the layer adhesion for strength. But it does make the hole for the screw not as strong, so I guess it's kind of a moot point. I'm using Duramic pla+, and printing at 215-220°, and it seems like pretty good stuff. Definitely better layer adhesion than some of the regular pla I've tried that prints at 190-200°. As far as the follower fitting in the base, I tried this on one of my ns522 5 round mags, and while it looks like the same follower, it's a tiny bit bigger and doesn't fit. Hopefully that's not just due to part variances, but printed with 4 walls, there's a bit of room to enlarge it if needed. A couple of the guys at the range were talking about +2 mag base pads for their Vudoos, so I've printed one for them to try out as well. That one I found on thingiverse though. Turns out there's a lot of that kind of stuff out there. I have a Wilson Combat 1911 22 conversion that uses GSG mags, and was able to print new followers that hold the slide back when empty and feed much better than the original GSG ones.
Kristian
 
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