Screwdriver torque wrench
- Thread starter KLS
- Start date
Preset Torsion Screwdriver Manual... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0BBSJHFQZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.realavid.com/product/master-scope-mounting-kit/
Might as well get the kit. Wheeler kits out of stock. Thanks for pointing out another choice.
CDI makes some useful drivers. Among those I use are the CDI 401SM a 5 - 40 inch pound driver (other ranges in this model are available).
I also use the model below, which is about 17 - 70 inch pounds (2 - 8 Nm).
I also use the model below, which is about 17 - 70 inch pounds (2 - 8 Nm).
Butcherbill
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Have used the Wheeler version for year, does the job well. Also have a smaller in/lb’s torque wrench in the shop I use anytime the torque specs are more than the Wheeler driver is able to do. Action screws on one rifle in particular as well as on motorcycles, which is why I have the torque wrench in the first place.
Buddy of mine has a Vortex torque screwdriver iirc he’s had it awhile and it looks as good as the Wheeler from what I remember.
Buddy of mine has a Vortex torque screwdriver iirc he’s had it awhile and it looks as good as the Wheeler from what I remember.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Some years ago I ended up with a "Weaver" brand scope mounting kit - aligning bars, lapping bars, lapping compound, inch-pound torque wrench - was too handy, so I sold the Wheeler FatWrench that I had been using. I found the levels to be useless - I do not use them - turn them end for end and get a different reading; do not read the same when side by each on same work piece. The torque wrench "clicks" and slips when you hit the setting. I have never had it calibrated - so I take its word that when set at 17 inch-pounds, that is what I am getting - not 14 or 22 inch-pounds. It has always been stowed turned down to "zero", like my bigger foot-pound torque wrench.
My brother is a fairly fussy millwright - he tells me that a torque value is a sliding feel - nut or screw is to be sliding when you hit that torque number - not that the thing stops turning at a burr or irregularity - he tells me that a "click" there, is not an "accurate" value - you want to feel it slide smoothly up to that "click". I have watched him loosen and re-torque a fastener a number of times to get the "feel" to be correct.
My brother is a fairly fussy millwright - he tells me that a torque value is a sliding feel - nut or screw is to be sliding when you hit that torque number - not that the thing stops turning at a burr or irregularity - he tells me that a "click" there, is not an "accurate" value - you want to feel it slide smoothly up to that "click". I have watched him loosen and re-torque a fastener a number of times to get the "feel" to be correct.
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I have used Weha, Felo and Fix-it Sticks torque heads. Felo seems to be getting more difficult to find lately, but Weha is still available on Amazon last time I looked. I like the Fix-it sticks the most and keep a dedicated set of specific torque heads and bits for the optics and another for use on the rifles themselves in my range bag. I had a Wheeler once upon a time, years ago. It seemed ok. It grew legs and wandered off out at the range one day.
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CDI makes some useful drivers. Among those I use are the CDI 401SM a 5 - 40 inch pound driver (other ranges in this model are available).
I also use the model below, which is about 17 - 70 inch pounds (2 - 8 Nm).
Those CDI models are not inexpensive at all. Wow.
They are not cheap, but they are accurate. I keep my inexpensive FAT wrench in the trunk for times when I need one at the range in case of unexpected need. The heavier one is in one of my shooting boxes in case action screw torque needs checking. The 5 - 40 inch pound model is kept at home for when accurate torque values are set.
This is what I use and I have never had an issue. Works great
