sealing - color codes?

TargetAcquired

TargetAcquired

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I'm almost hesitant to post this, so try not to throw stones.

While I am fairly new to reloading, I read and reference the ABCs, and the Lyman 49th and Lee manuals are on my bench, and have been referenced on several occasions. All my brass was FL sized, paired to a single rifle, and will stay that way (For .303 alone I have 3 different rifles, each with thier own 200 lot of brass). I'm just attempting to say that I play safe and on-campus.

I am now (soon to be) reloading for 2 calibers, and within those calibers I would like to develop different, but acceptable loads for casual plinking, longer-range stuff, hunting, and maybe the odd train robbery. And in those variance I'd like to experiment (i.e. different projectiles or powders). I have not loaded cartridge #1 yet in this vein, I have first created a list of items to consider (again, just to make sure I cover all the right bases). One of them that I put down but have yet to put any thought into is sorting. Yes, I can just box them all seperately, but because a lot of the brass and projectiles will match, I'd like to figure out a way that is more discernable.

Before posting this I did perform a forum search, used a few different terms and looked back into last year, but didn't really find what I need, so I apologize if this has already been discusseed ad nauseum (forget my passport, birth certificate or tattoos - apologizing for an infraction I might have not even commited is more proof of my Canadian Nationality than I'll ever need).

I'm not sure if cartridge sealers are a specific product, but I'm wondering if I can just use cheap nail polish in different colours for a 2-pronged effect: seal the bullets and primers (in case there is a development that works, but don't particularly like, and want to just leave it on the shelf indefinitely), and also colour-code that particular load, and then I could just have a legend card in the ammo locker for reference if I needed it. Using a few appropriate combinations of powders and projectiles, I might have 5 different loads for the same rifle, so I'm thinking this may be a cheap, easy, and effective way of making them clearly discernable.

I'm sure there are very appropriate, or specific products that are used for sealing, I'm just asking if there would be any potential problems with my idea. Objective #1 is purely identification, but if there is a side-effect of sealing, then that is just icing. Or gravy. Whichever sounds better.
 
It is common practice to marry brass to a particular rifle. I sort my brass by weight and then put it in 50 round plastic boxes. Each box is labeled with the rifle it matches. I mark the boxes, not the brass.
 
I'm already doing that. But now I want to take the brass that is married to the rifle, and try some different loads. So, the brass that is married to one rifle might be used for 3 or more different load types. If one used a popinted projectile and the other a rounded one, thats easy enought to identify. But if I try a different powder or charge in 2 different cartridges with the same projectile in them, they will be identical to the sys from the outside. So, if I take one type and 'seal' the bullet seat with red, and then the other with green, I'll know what i'm dealiing with, rather than having a big jumble of plastic boxes.
 
Tell you what, I obviously over-explained or muddied the waters in my original post. He is the triple-boiled question:

Is there any reason you can't seal cartridges with nail polish?
 
I would not seal the bullet to the case with nail polish.
To seal the primer is Ok, I'm sure.

This is what I do when testing different powders/charges, using the same projectile.

I color the primer only with a permanent marker pen, using different colors.
I record the color to the load and keep a log in the box of ammo.

When you reload, the primer is removed, and you can do the same again....or change it as needed.

I use STAEDTLER Lumocolor Permanent markers, in the "M" point.
If you must remove the color for some reason, just wipe it with a cloth and Brak-Kleen from CRC.

I keep at least 5 colors on hand for my load development, and it works well for me.

Regards, Eagleye.
 
You can always do a paint fill on the headstamp. Shouldn't take much time. A toothpick to apply a dab of paint (like Testors model paint and there's like a million colours to choose from) and smear it into the headstamp. Wait 30mins or so then use a tightly folded piece of paper towel with some acetone on it to do a quick wipe. Doesn't have to be perfect as long as the majority of the lettering retains the paint. You might not even need the acetone even. A few firm rubs back and forth on the paper towel on a flat surface should remove the excess paint. No need to seal the primer. :)
 
TargetAcquired said:
I'm sure there are very appropriate, or specific products that are used for sealing, I'm just asking if there would be any potential problems with my idea. Objective #1 is purely identification, but if there is a side-effect of sealing, then that is just icing. Or gravy. Whichever sounds better.
Click to expand...

Back in my IPSC days, we'd code our brass with permanent markers to help with sorting it out at the end of the shoot. Use a broad tip felt marker of different colours in a single swipe or X on the base across the headstamp to mark it. That should help you differentiate the loads (without marking the boxes) if that's your main purpose - for sealing primers, I've not gotten into that.
 
I use masking tape to make labels. I load ammo in rows of 5 or 10 per test. Low tech, but it works.

comparator006.jpg
 
You can write load data on the bullets or the cases as well with a Sharpie. It's probably the most common marking method I've seen.

Personally I leave paper notes in the plastic cases with a grid marked with what each row (usually a group of 5 rounds) is loaded with. I try to arrange the rows in a pattern with different bullets (HP vs SP for example) so that the grid can't possibly be read upside down.
 
scout said:
Back in my IPSC days, we'd code our brass with permanent markers to help with sorting it out at the end of the shoot. Use a broad tip felt marker of different colours in a single swipe or X on the base across the headstamp to mark it. That should help you differentiate the loads (without marking the boxes) if that's your main purpose - for sealing primers, I've not gotten into that.
Click to expand...

What he says. 8 sharpies about $10, color code and circle the primer or single slash or cross on the headstamp, gives you alot of loads and bullets to log. Once fired and put thru the tumbler, all clean.
 
My friends use a sharpie to color code their primers for the range (everyone shoots 9mm indoors and he likes to get his own brass back)that would work. I don't like the idea of nail polish chips accumulating in the boltface or firing pin hole area. It may not be a problem, but that's just my take on it
 
TargetAcquired said:
I'm almost hesitant to post this, so try not to throw stones.

While I am fairly new to reloading, I read and reference the ABCs, and the Lyman 49th and Lee manuals are on my bench, and have been referenced on several occasions. All my brass was FL sized, paired to a single rifle, and will stay that way (For .303 alone I have 3 different rifles, each with thier own 200 lot of brass). I'm just attempting to say that I play safe and on-campus.

I am now (soon to be) reloading for 2 calibers, and within those calibers I would like to develop different, but acceptable loads for casual plinking, longer-range stuff, hunting, and maybe the odd train robbery. And in those variance I'd like to experiment (i.e. different projectiles or powders). I have not loaded cartridge #1 yet in this vein, I have first created a list of items to consider (again, just to make sure I cover all the right bases). One of them that I put down but have yet to put any thought into is sorting. Yes, I can just box them all seperately, but because a lot of the brass and projectiles will match, I'd like to figure out a way that is more discernable.

Before posting this I did perform a forum search, used a few different terms and looked back into last year, but didn't really find what I need, so I apologize if this has already been discusseed ad nauseum (forget my passport, birth certificate or tattoos - apologizing for an infraction I might have not even commited is more proof of my Canadian Nationality than I'll ever need).

I'm not sure if cartridge sealers are a specific product, but I'm wondering if I can just use cheap nail polish in different colours for a 2-pronged effect: seal the bullets and primers (in case there is a development that works, but don't particularly like, and want to just leave it on the shelf indefinitely), and also colour-code that particular load, and then I could just have a legend card in the ammo locker for reference if I needed it. Using a few appropriate combinations of powders and projectiles, I might have 5 different loads for the same rifle, so I'm thinking this may be a cheap, easy, and effective way of making them clearly discernable.

I'm sure there are very appropriate, or specific products that are used for sealing, I'm just asking if there would be any potential problems with my idea. Objective #1 is purely identification, but if there is a side-effect of sealing, then that is just icing. Or gravy. Whichever sounds better.
Click to expand...

Wow, you made a one line question into a novel, LOL. I'm guesing you work for the government? Just kidding. ;)

Answer to your question: Yes, nail polish would work. So will any number of other methods. Personally i don't like nail polish in my primer pockets because it can be a pia to clean up afterwards but as long as you don't mind that then it would work ok.

In load development i will use multiple "stripes" from a permanent marker around the circumference of the catridge. For example: 1 stripe = 46 gr. powder, 2stripes = 46.5 gr., 3 stripes = 47 gr., etc. Permanent marker comes off easily, either in a tumbler or rolling the cases in a cloth wetted in solvent or alcohol. It's less mess and fuss too and after 30 years of reloading I firmly believe that KISS is a good principle for a reloader to follow.
 
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Cartridge sealers aren't required if you store your ammo in a cool dry place.
"...making them clearly discernable..." Floppy disc labels on the boxes, using a different style of bullet or a different colour of box.
 
Eagleye said:
I would not seal the bullet to the case with nail polish.
To seal the primer is Ok, I'm sure.

This is what I do when testing different powders/charges, using the same projectile.

I color the primer only with a permanent marker pen, using different colors.
I record the color to the load and keep a log in the box of ammo.

When you reload, the primer is removed, and you can do the same again....or change it as needed.

I use STAEDTLER Lumocolor Permanent markers, in the "M" point.
If you must remove the color for some reason, just wipe it with a cloth and Brak-Kleen from CRC.

I keep at least 5 colors on hand for my load development, and it works well for me.

Regards, Eagleye.
Click to expand...

Obviously Dave, great minds think alike, or is it, fools seldom differ..........I tried the model paint but didn't like the residue on my bolt face, then went to magic markers......what I liked about doing only the primers, like you said, it only designates for one firing then you can change it next time around. In rifles where I have standardized a load, I use it to designate numer of times the brass has been fired........sometimes..........when I remember........I really should be more dilligent. But it's a great concept anyway......even if I forget to do it, it's a great idea.
 
c-fbmi said:
Obviously Dave, great minds think alike, or is it, fools seldom differ..........I tried the model paint but didn't like the residue on my bolt face, then went to magic markers......what I liked about doing only the primers, like you said, it only designates for one firing then you can change it next time around. In rifles where I have standardized a load, I use it to designate numer of times the brass has been fired........sometimes..........when I remember........I really should be more dilligent. But it's a great concept anyway......even if I forget to do it, it's a great idea.
Click to expand...

I have noticed, Doug, That you and I think a lot alike in many respects as to reloading, shooting, etc. :)
Great minds or fools?? I have been accused of both conditions, and not just once, LOL.
Any way that one can save confusion is a good thing, IMHO.
I still keep reasonably careful records of load development so I don't repeat something I have already tried.
Take care, Dave.
 
I started using sharpies to colour code my shotshell reloads more than 40 years ago ... all reloading was with Winchester AA hulls which had various shot sizes marked on them ( i.e. 7-1/2, 8, & 9 ) ... but a little red on the primer indicated a reload with say: 1-1/4 oz of 4's ahead of a stiff load of W540 ... a whole different thing than a 1 oz. target load of 8's.

I carried the practice through on centrefire ammunition ... i.e. colour coding the primers to indicate different bullet weights ... a 115 gr. Nosler Partition looks very much like a 120 gr. Partition when loaded in a 25-06 for example. It's worked for me.
 
I don't have different loads for the same rifle but I do have multiple rifles in the came caliber. Worse still, it' sthe 45-70 and I have actions of varying strength which can make for an extremely dangerous situation. My solution is to load my benign loads (all blackpowder) in regular brass cases. My HFS loads (Holy F###ing S##t) go in nickel-plated cases and even then they get stored seperately from the other ones. If someone (for some unknown reason) shoots a BP load in my 1895 Marlin or my 1885 Browning, who cares. But someone who torches off a full house 418gr bullet and IMR3031 in my vintage Rolling Block would not only badly injure themselves, but they'd kill my Roller which would mean that I'd have to finish the job the exploding rifle didn't. To save time and keep us all friends I keep the hot loads well away from the rifles and label the bejeezus out of them.
 
c-fbmi said:
Obviously Dave, great minds think alike, or is it, fools seldom differ..........I tried the model paint but didn't like the residue on my bolt face, then went to magic markers......what I liked about doing only the primers, like you said, it only designates for one firing then you can change it next time around. In rifles where I have standardized a load, I use it to designate numer of times the brass has been fired........sometimes..........when I remember........I really should be more dilligent. But it's a great concept anyway......even if I forget to do it, it's a great idea.
Click to expand...

I thought you just used the shiny ejector marks on the case heads to tell how many times you'd reloaded your brass!
 
c-fbmi said:
Obviously Dave, great minds think alike, or is it, fools seldom differ..........I tried the model paint but didn't like the residue on my bolt face, then went to magic markers......what I liked about doing only the primers, like you said, it only designates for one firing then you can change it next time around. In rifles where I have standardized a load, I use it to designate numer of times the brass has been fired........sometimes..........when I remember........I really should be more dilligent. But it's a great concept anyway......even if I forget to do it, it's a great idea.
Click to expand...
See, I tried to do the marks for number of firings thing, too. But, like you, I forget to remember to do it. LOL!! I simply try to keep a good eye on the batch and as soon as one goes, they all do. And ... I don't push for max loads all the time so my brass keeps pretty good.
 
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