I just picked up reproduction colt baby dragoon. I have never shot a cap and ball revolvers. Does any one have information for me on what to load in this gun, the kind of ball, what type of powder, and do I need wading. Basically I need any information I can get thanks.
shooting cap and ball revolver
- Thread starter curthilde
- Start date
First off, what Caliber? Is it a 44?
- Location
- Golden Lake
First off you need to get some powder - FFFg black or Pyrodex (P). Then a powder flask and an adjustable measure.
Then some balls of the correct size - most .44's take either a .451 or .454 diameter ball. most .36's take a .375 diameter ball.
Then some lube to put over the top of the balls. I use Crisco but there are lots of commercial lubes.
Then some percussion caps - mostly No. 11 will work.
You don't need any wadding.
A capper to hold your caps is a handy "extra".
If you're really serious about black powder shooting - get a copy of Sam Fadala's book "The Gun Digest Black Powder Loading Manual".
Then some balls of the correct size - most .44's take either a .451 or .454 diameter ball. most .36's take a .375 diameter ball.
Then some lube to put over the top of the balls. I use Crisco but there are lots of commercial lubes.
Then some percussion caps - mostly No. 11 will work.
You don't need any wadding.
A capper to hold your caps is a handy "extra".
If you're really serious about black powder shooting - get a copy of Sam Fadala's book "The Gun Digest Black Powder Loading Manual".
handofzeus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Trout Creekish Ontario.
Sometimes I load powder , felt wad, THEN a little Crisco and seat the ball. I find that the grease before the ball really helps keep the bore from crudding up. All you get is a nice black slime. You can always grease up after the ball if you're paranoid about chainfires, but if you use a good oversized ball, sparks just will not get past.
The Baby Dragoon is a .31 cal so you need some .319 inch balls,I fill the chamber up leaving enough room to seat the ball then cover the chamber with a mixture of Crisco and bee's wax. The small guns favour CCI #10 caps but you can pinch a #11 and it will stay on the nipple.
Did a Chrono test of mine and it was getting an average of 715 Feet/Second with a full chamber of Goex FFFG. With 7 grains it was 528 Feet/Second. Here is a picture of an 1851 Navy on top and the Baby Dragoon at the bottom:
The 1847 Walker compared to the Baby Dragoon:
Did a Chrono test of mine and it was getting an average of 715 Feet/Second with a full chamber of Goex FFFG. With 7 grains it was 528 Feet/Second. Here is a picture of an 1851 Navy on top and the Baby Dragoon at the bottom:
The 1847 Walker compared to the Baby Dragoon:
cirthide....If you can't find any balls I could send you some to get you started,they are small and don't weigh that much so postage would be reasonable.
The .31 cal. is not that common so I have to cast my own,this is all part of the fun shooting black powder.
The .31 cal. is not that common so I have to cast my own,this is all part of the fun shooting black powder.
Sorry for the delay I have been very busy. The reproduction Baby dragoon I picked up is a .31 caliber thanks for the info and skinny 1950 if you do have some balls I could buy to get started that would be great and maybe any info where I can buy some or where I can find a mold to make some thanks.
Why use crisco?
Dirty on the hands and the smoke cannot be healthy.
Whereas 4 out of 5 dentists in bolivia can be bribed to agree that smoke from black powder is good for you.
Perhaps cause it is a cool nock off to the old days when fat from a bear or hog was used?
In my revolver I use
goex FFF, then
corn meal, then
ox yoke wonder wad (lubed)
then a hornady ball
The lubed wad is some type of dry lube, not wet in the hand.
The corn meal is measured so the ball fits to the front of the cylinders flush.
I measure with the lee spoon kit, fraction of the price of a good traditional measure.
I did not invent this. Found it on the web.
I can shoot 100+ rounds, without cleaning, with my ruger old army, and no loss of accuracy.
With this system the ROA is as accurate as my Freedom Arms, 454.
However the FA has better sights, therefore an uffair advantage.
And the ROA can be purchaced at less that 1/3 the price.
Crisco is commonly used.
Not meaning to nock anybody else or their system.
Crisco or corn meal will prevent chain fires from the front.
But it has been said chainfires usually start from the nipple end.
I bought replacement nipples for the ROA.
They have much smaller holes.
Still 100% ignition.
Dirty on the hands and the smoke cannot be healthy.
Whereas 4 out of 5 dentists in bolivia can be bribed to agree that smoke from black powder is good for you.
Perhaps cause it is a cool nock off to the old days when fat from a bear or hog was used?
In my revolver I use
goex FFF, then
corn meal, then
ox yoke wonder wad (lubed)
then a hornady ball
The lubed wad is some type of dry lube, not wet in the hand.
The corn meal is measured so the ball fits to the front of the cylinders flush.
I measure with the lee spoon kit, fraction of the price of a good traditional measure.
I did not invent this. Found it on the web.
I can shoot 100+ rounds, without cleaning, with my ruger old army, and no loss of accuracy.
With this system the ROA is as accurate as my Freedom Arms, 454.
However the FA has better sights, therefore an uffair advantage.
And the ROA can be purchaced at less that 1/3 the price.
Crisco is commonly used.
Not meaning to nock anybody else or their system.
Crisco or corn meal will prevent chain fires from the front.
But it has been said chainfires usually start from the nipple end.
I bought replacement nipples for the ROA.
They have much smaller holes.
Still 100% ignition.
