Get a magwedge rail and a quickpin and mount your red dot with ease, and make it easy to take down for cleaning. Always check the Quickpin to make sure the little spring loaded ball is in place and the pin is fully inserted. I don't own any SKS anymore but I've had dozens and they are just what youa re looking for.
Should I get an SKS?
- Thread starter MattE93
- Start date
I've had a ton over the years, sold everything 2 years ago and then got right back into it last month. Highly addicting rifle; drop it in the mud or the river and it will still work
Currently have 3:
-One unissued and looks to be ufired Russian Tula with a golden bayo with all proof markings and matching components (safe queen keeper)
-One refurbished Russian Izhevsk nestled in a lovely nutmeg Timbersmith stock with an increased LOP, bayo removed (current coyote control rifle)
-And one lousy a$$ed Chinese forced matched beater that gets mounted to the quad or gets pitched in the back of my extended cab bush truck. I shoot my corrosive ammo from it and dont't give a rats rear about it at all.
Currently have 3:
-One unissued and looks to be ufired Russian Tula with a golden bayo with all proof markings and matching components (safe queen keeper)
-One refurbished Russian Izhevsk nestled in a lovely nutmeg Timbersmith stock with an increased LOP, bayo removed (current coyote control rifle)
-And one lousy a$$ed Chinese forced matched beater that gets mounted to the quad or gets pitched in the back of my extended cab bush truck. I shoot my corrosive ammo from it and dont't give a rats rear about it at all.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
You just answered your question right there ^^^.
infideleggwelder
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
for the price of 6 boxes of 303, you can set yourself up with a Lee reloading press with all the startup stuff you need, including dies. bullets, powder, primer are extra, I only reload 303 at this point, and the press has more than paid for itself.
that being said, get an SKS, I have a few, the one that looks like it was assembled on the battlefield from spare parts of smashed rifles then driven over by a tank will shoot 5 inch groups at 100 all day , and I`m only a mediocre shot
If you already own milsurps, the answer is always yes, you should have one or more! One Chinese, one russian, then you can decide which is better.
In the current market, you have everything available from the mismatched super sanded chinese beaters from cabelas around $230 each, to more premium ones for less than $100 more almost everywhere. You really shouldn't settle for a beater.
So please, skip the cabelas chinese sks if at all possible. I looked through many of them and couldn't find anything very decent that day. Others have been luckier. The one I bought was a royal pain to take apart because they managed to assemble it, but the crossbolt held the action in until I had to pry it out with a prybar. Then it wouldn't go back in because the crossbolt had loosened and rotated with all the prying.
FInally got it in and ordered an aftermarket stock to get rid of the issue. This was all for someone else, btw. It took too much fiddling for my taste, like a few hours.
The elwood epps option mentioned by caramel sounds better, if those are nicer specimens.
Also, consider waiting for a nice Izhevsk refurb for around $300 on the EE. One of the nicest finished sks's you'll ever find.
All in all, super reliable guns, cheap, well made, old school cold war guns that some use for deer and moose hunting with great success.
Good luck.
In the current market, you have everything available from the mismatched super sanded chinese beaters from cabelas around $230 each, to more premium ones for less than $100 more almost everywhere. You really shouldn't settle for a beater.
So please, skip the cabelas chinese sks if at all possible. I looked through many of them and couldn't find anything very decent that day. Others have been luckier. The one I bought was a royal pain to take apart because they managed to assemble it, but the crossbolt held the action in until I had to pry it out with a prybar. Then it wouldn't go back in because the crossbolt had loosened and rotated with all the prying.
FInally got it in and ordered an aftermarket stock to get rid of the issue. This was all for someone else, btw. It took too much fiddling for my taste, like a few hours.
The elwood epps option mentioned by caramel sounds better, if those are nicer specimens.
Also, consider waiting for a nice Izhevsk refurb for around $300 on the EE. One of the nicest finished sks's you'll ever find.
All in all, super reliable guns, cheap, well made, old school cold war guns that some use for deer and moose hunting with great success.
Good luck.
Yes, I have field stripped it, gas tube shows no rust what so ever and the piston is in really good shape. Under the dust cover is nice with no rust or other issues. Couldn't get the action out of the stock though, I think the button is stuck with cosmoline. Function test with snap caps and everything seems to function great.
I was really please with how crisp and shiny the bore is.
Anyone have any good ideas for removing very dry cosmo from a stock?
I was really please with how crisp and shiny the bore is.
Anyone have any good ideas for removing very dry cosmo from a stock?
Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
Clean old cosmoline from a stock with methyl hydrate. It'll also remove the original Soviet finish.
Then leave it in the rear window deck of your car for several sunny days, wiping down with more methyl hydrate along the way.
Once you've rinsed, rubbed, and steel wooled your way to clean wood, stain with alternating Redwood and Walnut to get back the original look.
Mix 50/50 Boiled Linseed Oil with Turpentine and rub in. Back to the rear window for more baking.
Wipe off little bits of oozed cosmoline, and rub in more mixture. Repeat until desired finish is reached and/or no more cosmo oozes.
Then leave it in the rear window deck of your car for several sunny days, wiping down with more methyl hydrate along the way.
Once you've rinsed, rubbed, and steel wooled your way to clean wood, stain with alternating Redwood and Walnut to get back the original look.
Mix 50/50 Boiled Linseed Oil with Turpentine and rub in. Back to the rear window for more baking.
Wipe off little bits of oozed cosmoline, and rub in more mixture. Repeat until desired finish is reached and/or no more cosmo oozes.
As mentioned above, I had the same problem of getting the action out. I have done more than a few teardowns, and this was a first ever, likely related to the mismatched serial numbers. As your gun looks like something like the cabelas chinese sks (but matching numbers, nice), perhaps my experience can help you.
In my case, the cross bolt, which has a flat facing the rear of the stock, was not allowing the front of the action to raise. I saw this later when trying to get the action back in.
When pushing on the "button" release behind the trigger guard, it wouldn't break free, no matter how hard it was pounded.
If I were to do it again, I would force the action all the way to the rear of the gun (one way is with a big clamp, clamping the butt-stock end on one end and the muzzle of the barrel) to pull the mating point on the action off of the cross bolt flat, and then press the trigger guard button. And pry, but only if necessary.
If it stays tightly bound together like it is now, perhaps the gun will be very accurate, as one source of play is eliminated.
