Should I get my barrel threaded, or ... ?
- Thread starter Declared Bishop
- Start date
yes it is a good idea. recoil and muzzle jump can both be bettered with a proper device
Its an easy job, you'll pay basic shop hourly rate or may find someone with a flat rate
Find a shop that has brakes and do it all.
Best to concider what all you want for the end result and maybe get it all done at once, which may be pricey but cheaper than
going back in for several smaller jobs
I wanted a shorter barrel on one, had it threaded and a sight dovetail cut at the same time, just in case
Backcountryal
CGN Regular
- Location
- New Zealand
Brakes are excellent for reducing recoil and muzzle flip if youre wanting to watch your impact for PRS style shooting, or long range shooting. Or wanting to send multiple shots down range in a a timed stage. Most of the top PRS shooters are running brakes, or suppressor/brake combo's. Particularly handy when youre having to make adjustments to your windcalls. And if shooting off a barricade or tripod. I'd suggest finding a good gunsmith, one that actually understands what youre trying to acheive, and then fit a quality brake. Like so many products, there are brakes and there are brakes. I wouldnt suggest a radial brake if youre going to be doing a lot of prone shooting on a shingle or dusty firing position, a directional brake is much better.
Its also a good idea to pick your shooting mates wisely cos unless they are shooting the same style of shooting as you, or competing in the same comp as you, brakes can be pretty obnoxious to others close by. But hey, thats what good earmuffs are for. The pro's far out weigh the cons if youre into precise LR style or positional shooting.
Its also a good idea to pick your shooting mates wisely cos unless they are shooting the same style of shooting as you, or competing in the same comp as you, brakes can be pretty obnoxious to others close by. But hey, thats what good earmuffs are for. The pro's far out weigh the cons if youre into precise LR style or positional shooting.
why are you wanting to see the impact or splash? you bought a lightweight hunting rifle to go hunting I presume? are you wasting ammo trying to 'get on paper' and can't see where you're hitting?
step 1: at range is set target at ~22 yards, pull the bolt out, look down the barrel from the back of the action and line it up on the center of the target and then adjust your scope turrets to bring your reticle to the center of the target, then take a shot you'll be within a couple inches of zeroed at 22 yards....take one or two more shots to get nearly zeroed at 22 yards....then move target out to 100 or 200 yards, you'll be within a few inches at 100 and within 6-8" at 200 yards....you'll be all over the bullseye within 2-3 shots from there fine tuning your zero, pretty slick way to get dialled in to go hunting (approx. 22 yards is usually pretty close to your 'near zero' which is the same as your 'far zero' fyi)...so that's how you start with a new rifle and scope once you get to the range, you should be able to get all set up in under 1 box of shells, that includes letting gun cool, take a break, then do some cold bore cold body tests to confirm zero before you pack up and head home....build that cold bore 'zero confidence'....going to the range with only 1 box of shells also a mistake, always have 2-3 when starting a new rifle, this assumes you've already found a load it likes and you're now just setting up
as for watching a splash or impact there is no need for hunting, you only care about getting zero'd in and whether paper or steel it's not that hard to zoom up the scope to see holes on paper to 100/200, or set up spotting scope if you have, or just plain walk or drive to the target and back (added bonus you let the gun cool in between shots so you're zeroing in on cold bore which is what hunting shots will be), to watch impacts in scope is a luxury thing for those in the target world, hunting world it's not worth possibly blowing out your eardrums or your hunting partners eardrums because you didn't have time to put your hearing protection in to shoot that deer, you bought the wrong rifle if you want to play range star, sounds like you bought a proper hunting rifle, you should have bought something heavier or smaller recoiling chambering like 6-arc if you want to play prs pro, you can watch everything in scope with a 6.5 Grendel or 6-Arc and get the gun weight up to about 8 1/4 lbs then add a 3/4 lb 9-13" bipod on front and no need for a brake then....but a creedmoor will need to be somewhat over 10 lbs then add bipod for more weight to start to watch things happen in the scope at the shot without a brake, no one wants to hunt with rigs that heavy and no one wants to hunt with a brake or a friend with a brake lol....so it's totally unnecessary for a hunting rifle that recoils what the 6.5 cm does
I've done the brake thing, Henry does it right, no change in poi with or without, you'll only take a few hunting shots with a brake on without remembering your hearing protection before you realize how silly they are, and just to get dialled in to 'see splashes' is not worth the money to thread and brake etc. either, it's not even worth the gas to get to Henry and back
And don't give your rifle to anyone now, if you are gonna do it....do it after hunting season. Or you might not see your rifle back in time to get dialled in and set up for the season.
I'm making assumptions you're just getting in the game here. Don't sweat the brake, just learn how to get on paper easier by starting at ~22 yards and look through the bore and center on a target and line up the crosshair to that first...you'll be close enough at 100 from there, even 200 if your paper is in the 18-20" size range you'll see it (even if you have to walk/drive up to it) and can fine tune in from there with very few shots. 1/4 moa per click at 100 is 1/4" and at 200 it's 1/2"...easy math dialling in to zero. You want to be 2" high at 100....which will be about dead on for 200...then go hunting. And no matter what...first shot always hold on fur!
