Sks cleaning

All the ones I’ve removed have been like this, the cross pin looks like it’s part of the leaf but it will tap out. Then the leaf can be depressed and pushed out, the only reason I’ve removed them was to install a magwedge rail. Otherwise there’s no reason to fully disassemble it, similar to the recoil spring. I just clean it assembled and lightly lube it, can’t say I’ve ever pulled the retainer ends off to remove the spring from the rod. One slip and boing! the spring and end caps are flying everywhere to never be found 😂
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Here some pics, the firing pin is not seized. It moves freely. But the retaining pin oh my gosh it will not move 😠

The trigger assembly is actually quite clean minus a few spots tho. Not seized and works as it should

How do the numbers work on these rear sights ? 🤨 I’ve always wondered how they work lol
 

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Get the biggest hammer you have and a big tapered punch and wack it hard, then hit it harder till the cross pin starts to move. Think pall peen hammer or brass dead blow hammer. I support the bolt body with something like a small piece of 2x4. Drill a hole into it under the cross pin so it has somewhere to go but the bolt body is on solid wood.

The small inner round piece in the rear sight leaf picture you posted is the pin, tap it out with a finishing nail.
 
Well I soaked it in boil hot water with a few other parts and man the oil just starting floating lol was kind of gross ! None the less most came somewhat clean just wiping em off. The darn cross pin still didn’t wanna move and I thinking maybe it’s never been out before, I ended up sacrificing a little Allen key and cut the bent part off to make a small headless punch and used it to press the pin out in my vise. Used a large socket for the cross pin head part to pass through without damaging. None the less I got it apart finally hahaha
 

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If I remember correctly when I got my first one the cross pin was so tight that after I removed it I took some 400-600grit wet dry and sanded it till it was easier to install/remove from then on, still a snug fit but just not as tight.
 
Butcherbill said:
If I remember correctly when I got my first one the cross pin was so tight that after I removed it I took some 400-600grit wet dry and sanded it till it was easier to install/remove from then on, still a snug fit but just not as tight.
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Well this was also the VERY first time it has been removed by the looks of things lol. So I’m assuming it should fit together nicely and come apart a bit better next time it comes out. Plus I’ve also got a nice small little tool now to help press it out with the vice if it ever gives me trouble again lol
 
Butcherbill said:
All the ones I’ve removed have been like this, the cross pin looks like it’s part of the leaf but it will tap out. Then the leaf can be depressed and pushed out, the only reason I’ve removed them was to install a magwedge rail. Otherwise there’s no reason to fully disassemble it, similar to the recoil spring. I just clean it assembled and lightly lube it, can’t say I’ve ever pulled the retainer ends off to remove the spring from the rod. One slip and boing! the spring and end caps are flying everywhere to never be found 😂
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So for the numbers on these rear sights, how exactly should they work?? The N is what 100yards or less and then goes up 100yards at a time ? Or is it metres or how do they work and read exactly ?
 
Hey everyone who has an SKS asked some random guy on the internet... right before they are about to be banned!
 
BrownR said:
So for the numbers on these rear sights, how exactly should they work?? The N is what 100yards or less and then goes up 100yards at a time ? Or is it metres or how do they work and read exactly ?
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Iirc the N is the battle sight, for hitting a torso sized target out to 300m. Like sighting in a hunting rifle an 1 high, you’re going to hit whatever you aim at out to 250-300m.

The 1-10 is range in metres or yards.
 
Lirc ???
Everything cleaned up nicely though, just some odd stains like on the action assembly is all. Think I might try polishing it out but dunno if it’ll come out either lol
 

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You could lightly hit the bolt & carrier to clean it up. I 'buffed' with a green scotch-brite. Maybe polish with JB ?
 
Buck1950 said:
You could lightly hit the bolt & carrier to clean it up. I 'buffed' with a green scotch-brite. Maybe polish with JB ?
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Well I was thinking maybe my dremel with buffing pads and the red compound I have here, I’ve used it on a knife before and worked VERY good
 
IMO a dremel buff wheel only covers a small area and you may get streaks/blue-burns. I didn't want to f-it up. I have a buffing wheel on a bench grinder that might be an option sometime this winter. Maybe try in an unobtrusive spot before hitting the top of the carrier ?
 
Buck1950 said:
IMO a dremel buff wheel only covers a small area and you may get streaks/blue-burns. I didn't want to f-it up. I have a buffing wheel on a bench grinder that might be an option sometime this winter. Maybe try in an unobtrusive spot before hitting the top of the carrier ?
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Well it does have adjustable speed, I think 1000rpm to 5500 or 6500rpm
 
Dishwasher didn’t work so good to clean the stock 🤷‍♂️
But I gave it a wipe down with mineral spirits and it still feels a tad greasy almost like. Wondering if maybe some flat clear coat on it would help 🤔
 
When I cleaned my F-T, I used a lot of varsol, then "rinsed" with Methyl Alcohol. 99% Alc should do OK too but I had the M-A for another project anyway. Result is NO greasy feel OR smell of Cosmo. And I used the M-A on the metal parts too. USE M-A IN WELL-VENTILATED AREA - I did mine outside back in the summer. TRY this Alc wash first.
DON'T put anything on top of the OEM finish, unless you're planning to stain or paint. Then I'd advise a bit of sanding b4 anything else.
 
Buck1950 said:
When I cleaned my F-T, I used a lot of varsol, then "rinsed" with Methyl Alcohol. 99% Alc should do OK too but I had the M-A for another project anyway. Result is NO greasy feel OR smell of Cosmo. And I used the M-A on the metal parts too. USE M-A IN WELL-VENTILATED AREA - I did mine outside back in the summer. TRY this Alc wash first.
DON'T put anything on top of the OEM finish, unless you're planning to stain or paint. Then I'd advise a bit of sanding b4 anything else.
Click to expand...

is MA just like regular rubbing alcohol ?? Can’t say I have any methyl alcohol if it’s different. No varsol, but have mineral spirits and paint thinner if those would help ?

If I went to out any clear coat on it I would just sand it and clean it well so the clear has something to stick to. I’d rather not restain it if I can help it as I’d like to keep the original colour of it true

Otherwise I’d get another stock and keep the original stock tucked away in the safe
 
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