SKS field stripping 101,corrosive ammo cleaning,lubrication *updated*

Priiter said:
Hello guys...I got a Norinco SKS awhile ago and finally got around to cleaning all the cosmo off of it. Due to some unforseen circumstances I didn't get to re-assemble it after cleaning for a couple weeks and now I'm afraid I might have lost a part and have a spring left which I can't remember where it goes...stupid I know but I guess if I can find where it goes I'll never forget again. Anyone on here have some insight for me and can help me out?
I've added a few pics just to give you an idea of how big the spring is. I haven't been able to find any detailed drawings online anywhere.
Thanks

IMG-20120904-00189.jpg


IMG-20120904-00187.jpg


IMG-20120904-00185.jpg
Click to expand...

That spring goes in the stock,under rear of the trigger group.
IMG_0867.jpg

Joce
 
Just another quick question if someone may be able to help...I finally got my SKS re-assembled and fires well but one issue is I keep getting FTF. I was only able to load single rounds or else second round constantly got stuck in the breach one way or another.
Is there anything I might not have cleaned enough or installed incorrectly? Not sure what to do but it's annoying constantly loading single rounds.
Thanks again for any info
Priit.
 
is it ejecting properly? I had a ##### of a time with my extractor last time I had mine out.

If not, take the mag apart and see if your spring is getting jammed up on something.
 
ALLS London said:
is it ejecting properly? I had a ##### of a time with my extractor last time I had mine out.

If not, take the mag apart and see if your spring is getting jammed up on something.
Click to expand...

Every round seemed to eject properly, it was just anytime there was another round in the mag, the next round would get jammed and poke out sideways, upside down etc.
First time shooting this SKS and from the first 2 rounds I loaded the problem started.
 
and to ask an obvious question...

you've opened the mag to make sure the spring and plate are sitting right, right?

tear it down and put it back together- perhaps the mag isn't seated properly.
 
As far as I could tell everything looked good but I'll definitely have another look, disassemble it and try again.
Thanks for the advice.
 
Excellent work. It is laid out well enough for anyone to figure out. Definitely helped build some confidence and to clean my new rifle. Thank you.
 
Thank you for the great informative thread... I wanted to mention that on my sks reinstalling the gas piston was really difficult... the thing appeared all the way in and yet the latch was being very stubborn. I ended up having to set the rifle on a hard surface and give it a good solid smack with a rubber mallet to seat it. Once I did that the latch closed with ease. Anyway, thanks again for the wealth of great info. Cheers!
 
I can't figure out how to get the jag to work. I am used to a swab holder, do I use it bare, or is there a trick to wrapping a swab around it?

Also I just brush out the gas tube after squirting in some CLP, is this sufficient?
 
ilikeoldguns said:
I can't figure out how to get the jag to work. I am used to a swab holder, do I use it bare, or is there a trick to wrapping a swab around it?

Also I just brush out the gas tube after squirting in some CLP, is this sufficient?
Click to expand...
For the jag, you wrap 1 or 2 patch around(see pics below) and for the gas tube, CLP and brushing and a dry patch should be enough. If you worry for possible corrosion,you may oil very lightly the gas tube but oil should be removed before shooting to prevent powder residues to gum up.

IMG_1038.jpg

IMG_1039.jpg


Joce
 
ilikeoldguns said:
I can't figure out how to get the jag to work. I am used to a swab holder, do I use it bare, or is there a trick to wrapping a swab around it?
Also I just brush out the gas tube after squirting in some CLP, is this sufficient?
Click to expand...

I usually centre a solvent soaked patch over the muzzle of the rifle and and push it down the barrel with the jag. As the jag enters the barrel, I give it a little twist to engage the rifling. Seems to allow the patch to go in easier. Alternate brushing with 2x wet patches/1x dry patch until the dry patches comes out clean. Finish with an oiled patch down the bore. For the gas tube I brush it out with solvent soaked patches wrapped around the brush ( I actually use some of the "cleaner" used patches from the barrel cleaning stage (yeah, I'm cheap lol) before using fresh patches) again, I finish with a lightly oiled patch down the tube.

Works for me, hope this helps.
 
The best I've seen yet and I've spent hours going over various sites and videos.
I especially like you showing the various uses of the cleaning tube as a guide and handle.
Well done and big thanks.
Ted
 
Got another question.

I've been shooting with it a few times and every time used increasingly heavy methods for breaking down the bolt, recently I set the thing in my vice and tried tapping the take down pin with a hammer, using the little pin drift from the cleaning kit. Still nothing.

I take it, this is basically the way to go, but I tend to break things...how hard can I bang on this thing, without breaking something or other?

I don't have a drift kit, but I am thinking I ought to get one soon.
 
ilikeoldguns said:
Got another question.

I've been shooting with it a few times and every time used increasingly heavy methods for breaking down the bolt, recently I set the thing in my vice and tried tapping the take down pin with a hammer, using the little pin drift from the cleaning kit. Still nothing.

I take it, this is basically the way to go, but I tend to break things...how hard can I bang on this thing, without breaking something or other?

I don't have a drift kit, but I am thinking I ought to get one soon.
Click to expand...
The little drift on the cleaning kit is not well suited to drift out the extractor/firing pin retainer,since some retainer can be very tight to remove. Borrow a good drift punch or buy one and use a good hammer and dont be affraid to get the retainer out, you wont break the retainer or the bolt! Over time, the retainer will be more easy to get out but you really dont need to strip the bolt after each shooting. I assume that you never took the bolt apart until now so would be a good idea to do so,clean well with break or carb cleaner and reassemble dry,no oil of any kind, would only serve to attract dirtand you dont want that. As long the firing pin rattle freely, you are good to go. If the firing pin seems to not move so free, then clean again.
Joce
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom