SKS field stripping 101,corrosive ammo cleaning,lubrication *updated*
- Thread starter svt1940
- Start date
Wrap stock in in paper towels after removing it from the metalwork. Then place in black garbage bags and put in the sun or on the dash of your car for a while. Occasionally cheacking it and wiping it down. Or if you are going for a long drive put on your dash, crank the heat and open your windows and let it heat for a while. Same as other method, wipe it down. Do until it stops weeping, then seal with boiled linseed oil or wood furniture cleaner/protector like Pledge etc.
So i received my SKS today and quickly got to stripping it and then cleaning it with hot water and soap. Everything went well got off almost all of the cosmo. After that I made sure everything was dry, and then to get off the last little bit and in tight spaces I used break free CLP. I allowed that so drip off and sit for a couple minutes and then I wiped off any excess. Letting those parts sit I went to try and disassemble the bolt because my firing pin wasn't moving as freely as i would like. I cannot for the life of me get the extractor pin punched out. Ive used a punch and a hammer and sacked it a bunch, nothing is working.
The stock is sitting outside wrapped in newspaper and then in a black garbage bag to try and sweat out any cosmo.
My two questions are regarding what to do next with the bolt. Any other ideas? let it soak in boiling water then try again?
And question two is should I apply lube to the areas detailed even though they already got sprayed with Break free CLP?
Thanks guys, excited for my first firearm
The stock is sitting outside wrapped in newspaper and then in a black garbage bag to try and sweat out any cosmo.
My two questions are regarding what to do next with the bolt. Any other ideas? let it soak in boiling water then try again?
And question two is should I apply lube to the areas detailed even though they already got sprayed with Break free CLP?
Thanks guys, excited for my first firearm
Lay your bolt on a benchvise,opened just enough to allow the pin to fell of and grab a big ballpen hammer and a good punch and dont be shy, you wont break the bolt! This is my preferred method and never have problems to remove the pin. As for lube,less is better and while a bit of lube never hurt,your sks will function perfectly with CLP,the sks is not very picky about lubrication.
Joce
Joce
Appreciate the knowledge. I had a really tough time getting the operating rod back in, the "head" of it didn't want to go in it all. Finally after a couple hours of on and off trying/frustration I tried to stick it in head first and it went in right away. I thought that was crazy since its the same thing just backwards, go to put it in properly and it fits fine. Weird but happy.
I have the bolt assembly soaking in mineral spirits for the night, hoping that gets rid of whatever is causing the pin to not be 100% free and also loosens the extractor pin so I can open it up.
I have the bolt assembly soaking in mineral spirits for the night, hoping that gets rid of whatever is causing the pin to not be 100% free and also loosens the extractor pin so I can open it up.
- Location
- Eastern Ont.
Buy a hockey puck and drill a 1/4" hole in it, then place the bolt on its side with the back of the pin over the whole.
Punch pin out. Voila!
Use puck to support bolt when you hammer pin back in place later.
Try and find long Q tips with wooden handles to clean things like the firing pin channel in bolt.
I got mine from local vet as after a certain date they are required to throw out stuff like that.
Carb cleaner (spray) is great for cleaning cosmoline out of firing pin channel.
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Great Guide. Will be cleaning the cosmoline off of my SKS this weekend. Still debating whether to use a solvent or just some Hot water and dish soap. Doesn't seem to be a whole lot of the stuff on it. Many YouTube videos seem to recommend mineral spirits to clean off the cosmo followed by hot water. I'll also be attempting to put in a new Safety Spring as it seems mine does not have one.
Used varsol aka mineral spirits. From now on I'll just use hot water and some soap and a brush. Better to avoid chemicals whenever possible I reckon.
Thank you to the OP for this awesome write up. It's exactly what I was looking for. I just picked up my first rifle (SKS Russian) and have taken it apart to remove the stock, so as to fit it in a new ATI stock. I found that I was not happy with the short length of the original one. Also I found the original stock poorly fitted and the barrel very loose in the stock. Has anyone else found this to be the case for them? Anyway the new stock fits better and will now, with the help of this guide, be able to break it down completely and clean er up properly.
VanIsleCam
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Burned through 120 today and used boiling water bath then comp air to dry. Then hoppes and lots of patches. I think the oil only would be fireable but I like spending a couple of hours in the garage right. SVT 40 thank you for teaching me how to use the cleaning jag and bracing the c. rod with the punch and the barrel thread. Awesome and much appreciated,
VanIsleCam
VanIsleCam
For cleaning out firing pin channel, gas port, and other small areas, get yourself some pipe cleaners. Not the type used for crafts. Go to a tobacconist and get the real ones. They work great. And they don't leave cotton fuzz everywhere like Q-tips.
I also use a pistol cleaning rod to clean out the gas tube. It is pretty much the dirtiest thing on the rifle after a shooting session. I use a few different sized swabs to clean it out really well.
I also use a pistol cleaning rod to clean out the gas tube. It is pretty much the dirtiest thing on the rifle after a shooting session. I use a few different sized swabs to clean it out really well.
