Anyone find this extreamly difficult ? I dont plan on using the front rails, im going to buy a reviever with rails on it for my optics so I might just paint the wood black but damn ! So for now it looks funny lol....
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SKS Gas piston cover removal.
- Thread starter Canadiankeeper
- Start date
w w w.tapco.com/pdfs/instructions/SKS_T6.pdf
See part 7. The end on the pin may be peened(hammered) like a rivet and may need to be filed a bit.
See part 7. The end on the pin may be peened(hammered) like a rivet and may need to be filed a bit.
There are several methods that have been posted here re:getting that damned pin out.
I've tried all of them, and STILL couldn't get that effing pin out. What I finally wound up doing was cutting the wood with a hacksaw - being VERY careful not to cut into the gas tube - and breaking the wood out so I could install the Tapco gas piston tube cover on a SKS I sold. This method ruins the stock wood cover, but I didn't really give a damn, as I needed to get the Tapco part on.
I suppose if you have access to a drill press, or a machinist who knows how to use one, the pin can be drilled out and replaced with the Tapco-supplied pin. I only know that I couldn't get the pin out of my Russian refurb, even using heat, a lot of Knock-er-Loose, and a punch and (big) hammer.
Good luck, buddy, you will need it.
I've tried all of them, and STILL couldn't get that effing pin out. What I finally wound up doing was cutting the wood with a hacksaw - being VERY careful not to cut into the gas tube - and breaking the wood out so I could install the Tapco gas piston tube cover on a SKS I sold. This method ruins the stock wood cover, but I didn't really give a damn, as I needed to get the Tapco part on.
I suppose if you have access to a drill press, or a machinist who knows how to use one, the pin can be drilled out and replaced with the Tapco-supplied pin. I only know that I couldn't get the pin out of my Russian refurb, even using heat, a lot of Knock-er-Loose, and a punch and (big) hammer.
Good luck, buddy, you will need it.
i wouldnt paint it. it will never mach. but if you do paint it you wont need heat resistant paint because its wood.
p.s. use a vice a punch and one good swing with a sledge hammer trust me it works.
Thats was kinda my worry. I think i will just try and cut the wood like shredder said... How did you get the tapco back on tho ? Do you not need to be able to slide the thing out a bit to get the tapco in place ?
not too sure why so many people have trouble with the pin.. place it on a good solid base ( with a hole in it for the pin to drift through ) then using a brass punch, hit the little prick !!
I've done 3 with no issue and 1 that required a slightly harder hit ( nothing crazy )
I've done 3 with no issue and 1 that required a slightly harder hit ( nothing crazy )
I tried, I even got a buddy to help. First He held it while I aimed and swung. Tried for a few min no luck. Put it in a vice, still no luck... The damn thing I swear is welded in.
tungngroove2000
CGN Regular
- Location
- Beautiful BC
this ^^^^^^ i have done 2 of them with a cordless drill free hand. use a small metal bit and go at it, just try to stay straight so not to oblong the pin channel....i got roll pins from home hardware after i intstalled the new covers....ground the pin to correct length and good to go.
i got a metal heat shield from hical and found it wasnt too easy so i was hesitant to continue. 6 months later i did something about it and found it to be very easy with the right hammer/vice and punch. well worth the effort(very little) in the end
brass punch was worthless for me. needed to use a steel punch. a nail setter. the edge of the punch actually cut off the rolled/peened edges of the pin.
one of these guys (obviously this is just to get it moving. finish with something that fits the hole)
If you decide to paint it get a can of spray on truck bedliner at crappy tire or walmart. It is much tougher than regular paint, heat resistant and is easy to spray on. I sanded first, but i don't know how necassary it is.
Don't be afraid to drill the pin out, they send you a new pin for a reason, or order a second gas to from marstar or lever and you still have the original wood if you want to go back to it
- Location
- Lac Pelletier Sask
I used a 3/16 drill, and replaced the pin with an automotive 3/16 pin worked just fine
