SKS Improvements and Upgrades

scianna54 said:
On the SKS which has that nice trigger, I mentioned that before, it also has the AK mag release, it is nice, the only problem is that you have to modify the magazines too, I go it with 8 magazines, all of them have the tip of the pointy catch filed off. Otherwise it won't lock. Just so you know. I am not complaining, bought it dirt cheap and it shoots soooo nice, also has the bolt on close mod - that trigger is amazing. Will post some pics when I get to it.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I did the mod to the mags so they would lock, took a few minutes each with an exacto knife.
 
TwinMustang said:
I'm sure I'll be fine with manually loading the stock magazine. I'm not too worried about fast reloads. Unless I can get some seriously good accuracy, I doubt I'll use it for anything competitive, but I would like to get it to a point where I /could/ if I chose to.
Click to expand...
I can't speak to what it's like manually loading the factory magazine once you have a rail installed (because I never tried) but you definitely can't use stripper clips since the rail obstructs the top of the ejection port.
 
rugbydave said:
I can't speak to what it's like manually loading the factory magazine once you have a rail installed (because I never tried) but you definitely can't use stripper clips since the rail obstructs the top of the ejection port.
Click to expand...

There is one available which has an opening for the clips.

Magwedge or quickrail, not sure which one, I think magwedge, can't find it on their site now, but I have one, was fairly pricey, I think I got it for free (I don't even get it where prices are flying now), but it works with stripper clips, I can assure you. Maybe they closed shop because demand was not so high.

Please don't say "that guy has everything", yes because I was believing in the SKS for as long as I can think when most people said it is sh.t.
 
Last edited:
Twin - I forgot to add that when you replace the Sear Spring with an MCarbo one you should 'polish' the 'rails' that te sear runs on in the receiver. I used a bit of 1000g Wet/Dry paper folded on a tiny file to get inside the channels. Then I put a dab of Permatex Synthetic Grease PTFE ( CanTire ca $15 or so) on the channels and on the sear itself. Especially on the 'release shelf' of the Sear. This area rarely gets any powder debris so doesn't need frequent cleaning - I go hundreds of rounds b4 cleaning and re-greasing.
BTW - here's my TAPCO stock, adjustable length of pull. The fit is very snug, so No need for 'shims'. And the suede keeps the cheek-pad 'softer'. 😉

SKS-Tapco.jpg
 
Reading through this, all i can contribute is echoing the suggestions of working over the trigger, and bedding the gun if there is play in the stock.

Like most mods, the trigger wont improve accuracy, but it can make the gun FAR more pleasant and consistent to shoot. Swapping out the sear spring for a lighter one is by far the most effective way to improve an SKS trigger. Most importantly its also reversable. This is key because quite literally ANY improvements made to an SKS trigger makes it progressively less safe (uncontrolled discharge). Its just a game of how much "safety" remains by the time the mods are done. Polishing the sear and or changing the engagement angles on it can make major improvements as well, but runs a much higher risk of making the trigger assembly extremely un safe.

Whether or not bedding the stock makes a noticeable accuracy improvment is highly debated. IMO its only worth doing for the sake of learning and if you appreciate having tight feeling firearms.

Barrel crown condition is something i read about all the time and many will suggest it can make a huge difference. Ive definitely seen some examples online of this regarding Mosins. Success with re-crowning seems to revolve around whether or not the re-work was done better then what the factory did.

Having good sights depending on your eyes and competency is once again like improveing the trigger, no accuracy gain but it can arguably increase the guns effectiveness at engaging targets at distance. I like swapping the rear leaf out for a peep sight if nothing else. Tech sights would be better, with solidly mounted optics being king. I permanently mounted a SVD optic to mine and it allows me to engage full size IPSC steel at 500m with surprising ease. Something id personally struggle to do with just factory SKS irons.
 
My thinking is that minimal adjustment to get maximum improvement.
The spring loaded Murray’s firing pins seem like a sound and affordable adjustment for safety and to reduce the likelihood a broken or frozen firing pin.
If the accuracy for your specific uses is insufficient with the factory sights, I would either replace the rear sight with one of the aperture style or else install one of the rails like the mag wedge and a low power scope.
Possibly reduce the trigger spring strength.
Removable recoil pad for increased length of pull.

I think I anything beyond the minimal changes is not likely to dramatically improve its usefulness, but may dramatically increase the expense. Just my perspective.
 
99Solutions said:
My thinking is that minimal adjustment to get maximum improvement.
The spring loaded Murray’s firing pins seem like a sound and affordable adjustment for safety and to reduce the likelihood a broken or frozen firing pin.
If the accuracy for your specific uses is insufficient with the factory sights, I would either replace the rear sight with one of the aperture style or else install one of the rails like the mag wedge and a low power scope.
Possibly reduce the trigger spring strength.
Removable recoil pad for increased length of pull.

I think I anything beyond the minimal changes is not likely to dramatically improve its usefulness, but may dramatically increase the expense. Just my perspective.
Click to expand...
That's more or less what I'm thinking as well. The only gun I've ever added mods to was my Ruger 10/22. the first was the factory thumbhole stock, and then I added a nonmetal recoil buffer and a Simons scope, but that was basically it. I know the 10/22 has a bazillion mods and changes available, some even came from factory in special builds.
 
IMO the SEAR-SPRING replacement is the "Most effective Mod". The FP-spring bit is un-necessary IF one cleans the gun properly. 5-extra minutes to punch out the FP-securing pin and I use a 'wire-bristle' pipe-cleaner to thoroughly clean the channel.
 
I Dont Care About You said:
Nah, its amusing to watch people pour money into a POS only to discover they end up with an expensive POS and then voiciferously defend those bad choices from all the more rational people who point out that you can't polish a turd. 🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...
You are entitled to your opinion, but it should be an informed opinion. Not just regurgitating what you have heard from someone else.
It may be cost prohibitive to change stocks, modify triggers, add a rail and on optic these days. However, what I paid for the mods then, would now work out to a few hundred dollars less than what I could get for it in todays market.
Contrary to your opinion it is a shooter. I have no reservations using it as 150 yard deer rifle.
 

Attachments

  • 20250601_202711.jpg
    20250601_202711.jpg
    125.1 KB · Views: 11
Only two things you really aught to do to the Sks. Replace the rear irons with a raven eye peep sight or the badace tactical rail to add a red dot, and do a trigger job. And the Monte Carlo stock is a nice replacement if the original is trash. That's about it. Anything else is a waste of money IMO. I've done every mod to those guns you can think of over the years.
Oh, also on gun post do a search for Sks clips by porcupinehurricane. There's a guy on there that 3d prints polymer speedfeeder clips and they're FAR superior to stripper clips! I'd directly link the ad but greentips is prissy with competition
 
Last edited:
TwinMustang said:
Good gentlemen of the forum, I am but a humble marksman, used to shooting rifles as they came to me. I have done very little modification or tuning, and have no idea where to even start with my SKS.

I've had a 1954r SKS for quite a while now, and I've put quite a lot of corrosive ammunition through it. I was a dumb kid, and didn't know better. I do now.

First, where should I start with improving performance? Let's say I threw 2000 corrosive surplus rounds through it and the gas piston and barrel are showing the wear and tear, what's the first thing I should do?

I have seen a few posts about improvements made to various parts, including bedding and trigger group. Would polishing the bolt, carrier, and firing pin do anything? Should I start, instead, with re-bedding? Should I bother to keep the crappy old soviet stock, or should I get something else? I would love to put either a scope or better iron sights on. Dual aperture would be my preference, but I'll settle for anything under $75.

I've been out of the shooting and firearm world for almost 10 years, so it's time to dive back in and clear the rust, both from my brain and my skills.

Thanks in Advance!
Click to expand...
Bed it and clean up the trigger and feed it good ammo. Remember it’s not a precision rifle.
 
I Dont Care About You said:
Nah, its amusing to watch people pour money into a POS only to discover they end up with an expensive POS and then voiciferously defend those bad choices from all the more rational people who point out that you can't polish a turd. 🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...
Sure you can polish a turd, it’s cheap or free for the most part. Shimming the action tight in the stock shrunk groups in half for mine, shim stock can be anything from tin can/pop cans to feeler guage stock. DIY trigger job is time with some files and fine stones.
 
Percussianprimer said:
Bed it and clean up the trigger and feed it good ammo. Remember it’s not a precision rifle.
Click to expand...
It is amazing how much better they get with proper modern ammo as opposed to 60 year old surplus that has been stored in an unknown state.
So many people go off about how gun X is a POS and gun Y should not even be bothered with, etc, etc, but they rarely actually take the time to learn what is shoots or how it shoots.

For example, the old Lee Enfields, so many people go off about how bad the action is, not poor the guns are, how bad the brass is, but if you reload for a rifle that is not worn out, with flat base bullets you can end up with some very respectable accuracy from a 110 year old rifle, obviously not precision but way more than what is needed for big game hunting. The same can be said for the Remington 7600, apparently they are not proper rifles, do not lock up tight enough but I have one in the family shooting 7/8in 5 shot groups with a 4x scope at 100 yards in 3006. "The 3030 is a garbage inaccurate cartridge", ran 20rds of factory ammo over the chronograph and found the spread to be 200fps, well obviously that is not going to be a tack driver. "The 7.62x39 is a spray and pray cartridge", well in my bolt gun I get sub MOA with factory Geco FMJ ammo and 2 MOA with Norinco, the SKS shoots slightly worse but with respect to a 100 yard deer rifle and factory ammo I would have no concerns.

I really do not understand why so many people need a 1/4 MOA gun for hunting deer at 50 yards.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom