Sks Refinish Project

Rock Out w/ Ur Glock Out

Rock Out w/ Ur Glock Out

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Alright so picked up a 51' and a 52' Tula the other day and as ive read many posts on this already Im going right to refinishing the stocks. (one at a time in case I f*ck up)

First two questions are about varsol. Will it hurt the finish on the barrel etc if I soak all of the metal parts in it before boiling water?? Also does it work to remove any cosmo residue in the stock after having stripped off the current finish?? (so once the wood is bare)

I also need to know what to clean, lube/grease the guns with after shooting corrosive. I will be following the strip-boiling water-solvent (wipe off)- lube/grease mildly where needed-reassemble method. I know slip 2000 as it is water based has been recommended as a solvent but I cant find it anywhere. As for lube/grease what do you all suggest?? Are both needed or just a lube? I heard about lithium grease for the rails but idk if were talking an aerosol version or an actual thick grease!

Thanks in advance for the help. (The Kurgan feel free to post away lol) couldnt find circa 1850 tung or remover but I got a suitable equivelant and everything else that I need for this project. Waiting for my gf to bring brushes and gloves and away we go pending the help that I need :)

Rock Out
 
Should add that I picked up both from Lebarons last friday, and to my surprise and relief, they were both cosmo free!!! :) I ask about the varsol on the stock because I figure they didnt get insanely detailed with the removal of cosmo but I cant find any at all thus far!! And no rust to boot! The 51' is a little rougher. A shifty gas tube (not the wood handguard the actual tube), a trigger in need of minor work and a safety that doesnt snap into place like the 52'. Overall both are in great condish though. I plan on shooting these until they shoot no more so they dont need to be perfect! I dont believe in owning safe queens :)
 
Ive got the 51' broken down now! Handguard is still on the gas tube. That is the part that im most worried about! Ive got a punch for the pin that needs to come out but it looks like there is a lot of room for error :s
 
From Yooper Johns sks site;

"the early russian trigger groups differ from the rest,they are more complex and seldom have a safety spring installed. These use a friction type of safety"

I thought the same thing when I got my 1950. I took it apart and compared it to a late model, noted the difference and chaulked it up to being an early model, but I did confirm it by reading up on it, trust me I doubt its broken.
 
Rock Out w/ Ur Glock Out said:
Anyone have an easy'ish way to remove the pin holding the handguard onto the gas tube?? Ive been hammering on it with a punch for like 20 mins now and from i can see it hasnt budged :(
Click to expand...

Tula,eh?
The "pin" you're trying to remove is on most russians rather a rivet (they drive the pin in and hammer it flat enough to fit in the frame...sometimes even with the help of a file.
What I did was center punch it on one side ,take twice the size of drillbit and carefully remove the head,THEN punch it out.
As replacement use a same as pin diameter carpenter or frame nail,push trough,cut 1/16 too long and re rivet it,then take a file and flat the head so everything fits back into the frame,no painting or rebluing necessary,won't stay there anyway if you got a halfway decent tight fit.
 
Got through it alright!! once out i see that it is in fact a rivet. Took about 60-70 strikes with a hammer and punch and the gf holding it all steady. Nothing broken so all is well :) The stock is now stripped of all original finish. Gonna layer some varsol on it now, wipe and let dry then sand with a fine grit and 0000 steel wool. Then onto the tung oil which apparently i forgot to actually buy at home depot despite having it in my cart fml!
 
Ill be posting pics when complete but update as I go! I havent done this before so thats why I left the 52' alone until I see the results. So far so good though! Both the 51' and 52' looked identical as per stock color and overall condition so ill make sure to post pics of both for comparison sake! If I had a camera at the ready id be doing a step by step with photos but if all goes well then ill be doing that for the 52'. Step one to finish with photos for reference!
 
Well,and about to find out how early your 51 is...that year IIRC,ended with the spring loaded firing pin and came up with chrome lined barrels after...some even go back to the spring pin style,it's said to prevent slamfire,but my personal opinion is if you keep it clean and don't over lubricate it,works as well...
 
The pin on the 51' isnt spring loaded and it does have a chromed barrel from what I can tell! I agree with the logic that if you keep it clean it will work. Did for the russians anyways!
 
Where can I find slip 2000 or an equivalent water based solvent and roll(spring) pins for the upper handguard?

Also what do you all lube/grease ur sks's with? Would just having remignton gun oil work or is a thick grease for the rails suggested as well?
 
I refinished my 53 tula last winter. Used a furniture stipper on that ugly red stock, worked very well. Used Truoil to refinish and it looks very good. Mine didn`t have a lot of dings or dents so it was relatively easy. A little light sanding was all i had to do. Good luck with your project.
 
you'll get a million and one opinions on lubing the SKS. Just dont let anyone tell you one way is right or wrong as this disproves their logic. Ive heard of everything from no oil, motor oil, wd-40, all different gun oils, all kinds of grease but not yet has someone found a lube that doesnt work in an SKS. They are made with quality steel thats been thoroughly hardened for some serious reliability. Frankly use whatever you please to lube it and it will work. I like M Pro7 products for lube and Birchwood Casey Barricade for protecting bare steel. Its all good so dont forget to have fun along the way. As for roll pins, most hardware stores should have them, Princess Auto should have bulk packs with different sizes for cheap too. A small nail works as well.
 
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