- Location
- Lethbridge
Tagged for interest.
Sks Refinish Project
- Thread starter Rock Out w/ Ur Glock Out
- Start date
- Location
- Ottawa origanally Muskoka
I found that a rag and a steam iron are good for removing cosmo from the stock and dents.
The varsol MAY remove paint from black painted metal parts.
Tung oil eh.... I used 'circa 1850 Danish Oil' its a mix of linseed,tung,varnish. Makes a nice satin low luster finish that has improved weather and stain resistance. Used 0000 steel wool in between coats with a 24hr set in between. 3 coats seemed to do it for me.
The varsol MAY remove paint from black painted metal parts.
Tung oil eh.... I used 'circa 1850 Danish Oil' its a mix of linseed,tung,varnish. Makes a nice satin low luster finish that has improved weather and stain resistance. Used 0000 steel wool in between coats with a 24hr set in between. 3 coats seemed to do it for me.
Nice sounds like a nice finish ciphery! I got the first coat on and shes in the process of drying! I ask about the varsol because id like to use it as a regular solvent between cleanings after boiling water but not if its going to hurt the finish. Its hard to tell if my rifles are blued or painted!!
Seperate topic: Sks stripper clip capacity!! Im fully aware of the laws pertaining to mag capacity in centerfire rifles (that being 5). Having a mag that holds over 5 is highly illegal (not including the LAR mags made for pistols) but whats the deal with stripper clips. Im sure you can only load 5 on them but they are sold as 10 rounders and so many people post pics with ten loaded. Is this not in violation of the law! Is the onus on us to only load 5 or cut them down to 5??
Seperate topic: Sks stripper clip capacity!! Im fully aware of the laws pertaining to mag capacity in centerfire rifles (that being 5). Having a mag that holds over 5 is highly illegal (not including the LAR mags made for pistols) but whats the deal with stripper clips. Im sure you can only load 5 on them but they are sold as 10 rounders and so many people post pics with ten loaded. Is this not in violation of the law! Is the onus on us to only load 5 or cut them down to 5??
Ive got to admit that sks's are the sh*t! Ive been a black rifle guy forever but there is an inherent joy in being able to buy a rifle with history, at a low cost, that you dont feel bad (or scared) about ripping apart and working on yourself! Theres a lot of satisfaction in taking something solid and making it your own. Not to mention that all of the supplies required to refinish these stocks cost me about $45 and I can refinish probably three rifles with that purchase. I dont care to tacticool these girls one bit. Only give a quality refinish to an icon that was designed for reliability and long term use while leaving them as they were intended! I dont think people can fully grasp that concept of- you cant only have one- until you own and love one of these beauties! It doesnt matter if im using match ammo or otherwise, ill always clean my guns after use and this means that cheap ammo can be had without compromising the quality of these guns and they give reliability that meets or exceeds what you can expect from many modern rifles!! I suggest that everyone be open to the idea of owning one of these rifles. At $150-200 or $75 in some cases, you really cant go wrong!!!
Congratulations,you got the idea!...
I'm actually a shotgun guy...well,yeah on a couple recomendations and since they are pretty common,I bought a SKS ...51' Tula refurb...you know,can't go wrong with the price.Yaddayaddayadda...not really convinced.
Meanwhile,I sold all my .223's,30-06's,only kept the 300WM's! Bought more SKS than shottys last year.Have 5 SKS by now,working on the sixt...plus bought enough other stuff in the SKS caliber.(CZ 527,AIA,Norinco,Baikal,Conv't Mauser,Rasheed...no 858 yet)...Conclusion: There must be a SKS virus going round.My imune system wasn't strong enough - BUT I LIKE IT!!!
Ya seriously!! I need to stop buying guns and load up on ammo for these girls before expanding the family any further!! I really want to know more about the clip restrictions too!! There absolutely is an sks fever going around and even though they are abundant right now they wont be forever so now is as good a time as any to make the buy! I feel like too many ppl are waiting for the LGR to be abolished and I dont know why!
No "deal".
Nope. It's just a way to hold the cartridges. Nothing more.
Nope. My surplus ammo came pre-loaded with 10 rounds on each clip. I simply insert the 10-round clip in the rifle, stuff my thumb at round #5 and push down into the magazine, then place the clip with the 5 remaining rounds on the bench for when the rifle needs reloading.
OK gents and gals...I want in on refinishing my 54. I have been shooting the crap out of it for many months and now it's time to make it look good. I am by no means a wood worker. So bear with me on confirming the steps.
What are the procedures for stripping cosmoline off the wood? How do you apply the varsol? What kind of furniture stripper are we talking about, Dead Meat?
Alex
To get cosmoline off/out of the wood people seem to like steaming it out or the oven trick. Essentially you're sweating it out. A coating of varsol afterwards doesnt hurt either to clean it up. Varsol works well for getting cosmo off of the metal bits but if you've been shooting for a while Im sure thats already been taken care of. Varsol can be applied with a brush or with a rag (rag works better). No need to go overkill, just wipe a nice coating on. Not so much that its dripping because thats way too much. Then let it dry.
The first step though is to strip the original finish with a furniture and body finish remover. This you can coat on heavily. Let it sit for 10-15 and then brush off with 00 steel wool, a rag or whatever works for you. You may have to go at the stock a few rounds with this stuff to get it all off.
Next (once clean), sand the stock to clean it up. Dont use too heavy a grit because you dont want to be removing material too much,just working it to a smooth and clean state for applying oil. If you have dents you want gone then now is the time to take them out. Place a damp rag over the dent and drive steam through it with an iron/steamer. Start slowly so you dont fry the wood.
Next buff the stock up with some 0000 steel wool and once done you're ready for oil. Nice coating of tung/true oil all over, again, not so much that its dripping and again with a rag. Let sit for 10-15 and wipe off gently with a cotton rag. You're not taking it all off as the wood has absorbed some of it.
At this point try and find a stand so the stock can dry evenly (dont lay it down) and let it sit for at least 24 hours without touching it!!!! After 24 hours buff again with 0000 steel wool and wipe off and fibres and steel wool bits with a rag before applying the next coat of oil.
Repeat this process until you have 4-6 coats of oil on it. On the last coating of oil do not wipe it off after the 10-15, let sit for as long as you can (at least 24 hours but 36 is better) and DO not use anything after it is dry. No steel wool, no sandpaper, nothing. Just buff it with a clean, dry cotton rag. And you're done!
How much you choose to sand in all the nooks and inside the stock before oiling is up to you. I got everything nice and smooth so the action will be easily removable in the future (it wasnt the first time). Oh and if you want to stain it before the oil then you can. Depends on what color you are going for. Follow the steps for before and after oil coats for the stain as well. I personally really like the natural look of the laminate wood which really pops once the oil is on there!!
If im missing anything then chime in people or ask away with more questions. Getting the handguard on the gas tube off is a b*tch but a hammer and punch will work. Just be careful so you dont crack the wood or destroy a finger
Good luck with your endeavors!!!
The first step though is to strip the original finish with a furniture and body finish remover. This you can coat on heavily. Let it sit for 10-15 and then brush off with 00 steel wool, a rag or whatever works for you. You may have to go at the stock a few rounds with this stuff to get it all off.
Next (once clean), sand the stock to clean it up. Dont use too heavy a grit because you dont want to be removing material too much,just working it to a smooth and clean state for applying oil. If you have dents you want gone then now is the time to take them out. Place a damp rag over the dent and drive steam through it with an iron/steamer. Start slowly so you dont fry the wood.
Next buff the stock up with some 0000 steel wool and once done you're ready for oil. Nice coating of tung/true oil all over, again, not so much that its dripping and again with a rag. Let sit for 10-15 and wipe off gently with a cotton rag. You're not taking it all off as the wood has absorbed some of it.
At this point try and find a stand so the stock can dry evenly (dont lay it down) and let it sit for at least 24 hours without touching it!!!! After 24 hours buff again with 0000 steel wool and wipe off and fibres and steel wool bits with a rag before applying the next coat of oil.
Repeat this process until you have 4-6 coats of oil on it. On the last coating of oil do not wipe it off after the 10-15, let sit for as long as you can (at least 24 hours but 36 is better) and DO not use anything after it is dry. No steel wool, no sandpaper, nothing. Just buff it with a clean, dry cotton rag. And you're done!
How much you choose to sand in all the nooks and inside the stock before oiling is up to you. I got everything nice and smooth so the action will be easily removable in the future (it wasnt the first time). Oh and if you want to stain it before the oil then you can. Depends on what color you are going for. Follow the steps for before and after oil coats for the stain as well. I personally really like the natural look of the laminate wood which really pops once the oil is on there!!
If im missing anything then chime in people or ask away with more questions. Getting the handguard on the gas tube off is a b*tch but a hammer and punch will work. Just be careful so you dont crack the wood or destroy a finger
Good luck with your endeavors!!!
Ive got three coats of tung on now and shes looking gooood!! The waiting sucks but its a cool little project that will look fantastic in the end. The rest of the metal finish on these two arent bad at all so I will leave them as they are (otherwise id consider armacoat but cant justify the cost). The butt plates are pretty chipped though so ill probably get some krylon to respray them unless anyone has a better option??
hunterinthewoods
Regular
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I would rather powder coat small items like that, wears better than paint.
But I have my own gun and oven.....whatever is easier for you.
But I have my own gun and oven..
...whatever is easier for you.You only need about $150 and then send the wife out of the house for a while.
For a rare(r) milsurp I'd leave the butt plate with the original finish, but for a rifle I didn't mind painting, Krylon would be fine. Another option is to remove the butt plate and screw on an aftermarket recoil pad which can give you more LOP if you want it. Comfy, nice looking, better ergonomics....win-win-win!
To get cosmoline off/out of the wood people seem to like steaming it out or the oven trick. Essentially you're sweating it out. A coating of varsol afterwards doesnt hurt either to clean it up. Varsol works well for getting cosmo off of the metal bits but if you've been shooting for a while Im sure thats already been taken care of. Varsol can be applied with a brush or with a rag (rag works better). No need to go overkill, just wipe a nice coating on. Not so much that its dripping because thats way too much. Then let it dry.
The first step though is to strip the original finish with a furniture and body finish remover. This you can coat on heavily. Let it sit for 10-15 and then brush off with 00 steel wool, a rag or whatever works for you. You may have to go at the stock a few rounds with this stuff to get it all off.
Next (once clean), sand the stock to clean it up. Dont use too heavy a grit because you dont want to be removing material too much,just working it to a smooth and clean state for applying oil. If you have dents you want gone then now is the time to take them out. Place a damp rag over the dent and drive steam through it with an iron/steamer. Start slowly so you dont fry the wood.
Next buff the stock up with some 0000 steel wool and once done you're ready for oil. Nice coating of tung/true oil all over, again, not so much that its dripping and again with a rag. Let sit for 10-15 and wipe off gently with a cotton rag. You're not taking it all off as the wood has absorbed some of it.
At this point try and find a stand so the stock can dry evenly (dont lay it down) and let it sit for at least 24 hours without touching it!!!! After 24 hours buff again with 0000 steel wool and wipe off and fibres and steel wool bits with a rag before applying the next coat of oil.
Repeat this process until you have 4-6 coats of oil on it. On the last coating of oil do not wipe it off after the 10-15, let sit for as long as you can (at least 24 hours but 36 is better) and DO not use anything after it is dry. No steel wool, no sandpaper, nothing. Just buff it with a clean, dry cotton rag. And you're done!
How much you choose to sand in all the nooks and inside the stock before oiling is up to you. I got everything nice and smooth so the action will be easily removable in the future (it wasnt the first time). Oh and if you want to stain it before the oil then you can. Depends on what color you are going for. Follow the steps for before and after oil coats for the stain as well. I personally really like the natural look of the laminate wood which really pops once the oil is on there!!
If im missing anything then chime in people or ask away with more questions. Getting the handguard on the gas tube off is a b*tch but a hammer and punch will work. Just be careful so you dont crack the wood or destroy a finger
Good luck with your endeavors!!!
Thanks i'm on it this week at some point.
Product is finished and ill have pics up this week!! Been busy working Im about to start on the '52 but ill take pics with the '52's stock beside the finsihed '51 for comparison! Gotta say the work you put into this type of thing really pays for itself!
Im about to start on the '52 but ill take pics with the '52's stock beside the finsihed '51 for comparison! Gotta say the work you put into this type of thing really pays for itself!I was wondering if anyone knows what they used for the original finish on the sks because I recently screwed up the finish on my handguard. I would love to refinish the handguard back to what it was. I just love the look of my hard wood stock and want it looking great again. Thanks
