SLR tips, tricks and observations

Hiya

Building mine today. First impressions:

I have a late 400 serial number, and it seems the aforementioned issues with finish, magwell fit, etc, have been addressed. I tried a few different metal and poly mags with no issues.

Certainly oiling the receiver made it look a lot nicer than right out of the box.

Putting it together has been fairly easy. This is my first AR "build" so the learning curve is steep but hopefully short.

Issue 1: I didn't have the bolt catch release "cracking" issue, but the catch itself is stiff. It isn't binding at the pivot, it's just stiuff. Hopefully it'll work itself in.

Issue 2: someone posted a simple diagram of assembling (and cutting if necessary) the trigger group. I can't find that post, so can someone post the link?

I'm not going to be able to complete the build for a while as the gas block I bought didn't come with a roll pin, and I won't have time to get another before I have to leave town for work again.


For the record, my objective was to build a complete rifle for $2000 or less. By using my military discount and waiting on sales and deals I came in at $1994.46 including taxes and shipping from various vendors. One caveat is I repurposed the AR buttstock from my WK180 and I had a pistol grip, sling mounts and BUIS already. Even if I had to buy those items I'd still be pretty darned close to $2k!

I wanted it to have a collaped OAL of under 35" and thanks to the shorty flash hider it's 34.5" with the buttstock at it's shortest setting.

What's on it:

TNA lower kit, charging handle, and ejector port cover kit
TNA stainless gas block and tube
TNA buffer and spring
Black Creek Labs 18.6" SS fluted match barrel (midlength)
Brownell's "shorty" muzzle brake
Ebay 11" M-LOK handguard
Faxon A-3370 BCG
mystery AR buttstock (from WK180-C)

Work in progress photo. Still need to do the trigger group and that gas block roll pin.

maccabee%20build.jpg
 
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BCreserveMP said:
Issue 2: someone posted a simple diagram of assembling (and cutting if necessary) the trigger group. I can't find that post, so can someone post the link?
Click to expand...

Not sure if this is the picture you're referring to but since you used a TNA lpk it will come with an M16 trigger group so this is probably what you're looking for?

You just need to grind off the piece for the full auto sear so the hammer will fit through the trigger box

attachment.php
 
Man that trigger was a PITA, but once it was all assembled inside the housing it slipped right in.

My build is complete. The only issue is the bolt catch release ...doesn't catch. It's not binding at the pivot point, it's like there's too much tension in the spring, or something. I might have to take it off and do some filing of the actual moving part, but that means (yay) drifting that pin out (again) and back in.

I had a minor fitment issue with the fire selector being a little too tight for the opening in the receiver, but a little filing took care of that. It's still stiff, but it'll work itself smooth over time.

One good thing I discovered: you don't have to fiddle with the C-clip of the ejection port cover. Instead of requiring the C-clip, the handguard will keep the cover rod from falling out. The only things you need for the EPC are the cover, the rod, and the spring.

One note about that: If you're thinking of ordering one of those "clipless" EPC rods with the knurled end, they will not fit the SLR receiver.
 
I had an issue with the bolt catch release. It was binding, but not at the pivot. It seemed to be getting jammed in the "channel" where it sits. Took a wheel to the actual catch as well as the detent, and even opened the pivot hole up a bit while it was all apart. Works like a charm now. I think the issue was the coating on the receiver being a little too thick for the catch release assembly.

Other issue was with the fire selector being too stiff despite the actual switch spinning freely without the detent in place. Clipped about 2mm off the detent spring and that did the trick.
 
jiffx2781 said:
Not sure if this is the picture you're referring to but since you used a TNA lpk it will come with an M16 trigger group so this is probably what you're looking for?

You just need to grind off the piece for the full auto sear so the hammer will fit through the trigger box

attachment.php
Click to expand...

Just FYI, that material has nothing to do with the auto sear. The auto sear catches the hammer on a hook at the end of the tail on the top of the hammer (hook is not present on semi auto hammers).
 


Slr. 18.6 mra barrel. Vortex 4x12x 40 tactical. Trigger is a basic group from an aero trigger group in the 6.5 to 7 lb range (waiting on jp springs).


53gr hornady superformance at 100y from the bench using a bipod.



And some ivi 55gr hp. Same set up.
 
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Hey guys. New builder here. Been doing two uppers (one .223 wylde and one 7.62x39). Got most of the kinks worked out by now. But I've been checking headspace on mine and the .223 wylde seems fine but the x39 seems really tight on GO gauge. Doesn't rotate without some leverage help from an Allen key through the cam pin hole on the bolt (disassembled).

I tried testing function with some snap caps and the bolt closed alright. But it seems like it doesn't want to eject the round/snap cap when I pull the charging handle back. I've tried several times. The same snap caps eject 9 out of 10 times out of my SKS without issue.

Any advice?

Thanks! Some great looking rifles in this thread!
 
PGW Steve said:
There are two different bolt heads for X39/Grendel, a type one and a type two. One is .136" and the other is .125", is it possible you have the wrong bolt for your barrel?
Click to expand...
inexperienced builders and owner get this mixed up which can lead to dangerous situations. They should not be mixed.
 
Hey guys I have a question has anyone tried drilling a hole through the reciever and installing a push pin? Iv looked at what material you have to work with and I think if it's a smaller push pin it would be strong enough. What do you guys think?
 
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