Smith and Wesson Model 10 help!!!
- Thread starter HK45auto
- Start date
Since you've already had the side cover off once it would appear that you have some reasonable ability to study and handle doing such things without causing untold destruction. Some folks can't even handle THAT much so you're already way ahead.
Given this I think it's safe to suggest that you dig a little deeper. Just keep in mind that if you feel like something needs to be forced you're doing it wrong.
There's three spots where springs want to try to leap for freedom. The rebound block, the escapement pawl at the extreme front of the action recess and the plunger spring that tensions the cylinder latch plate and pin unit. Watch for those spots and you'll be fine. Getting the spring back in on the cylinder stop escapement requires a thin jeweler's screwdriver and care to avoid it bending over or slipping off and leaping away. Keep a rag bunched up so if it goes SPROING! that you've got a back stop to catch it.
Replacing the rebound block spring is easy if you make up a tool by modifying a 3/16 wide thin screw driver blade to have a V on the front with the angle looking similar to a drill point. It'll let you push the spring in place and hold it as you pivot the block back over the pin in the frame.
Watch the tubular nut that holds the release button. You want it snug but don't go nutz torquing on it. In fact I'm a big fan of sneaking up on screw torque for anything on a gun. If in doubt I like to set it to what feels on the lighter side of "about right". I bring along the screwdrivers for the next few range sessions and repeatedly check for loose screws ever 50 or so rounds. If one does come loose I tighten it a little more than I did the first time.
Generally you'll find that you can do just fine with less torque than you think. Never go by what it takes to snap a screw loose. They do tend to freeze in place a little over time and typically take more torque to break loose than what they are supposed to be tightened to originally.
ALRIGHT...
So I took it apart, soaked and cleaned it. Everything was taken apart expect the cylinder/ejectors as I do not have a vice to do it with, it is extremely tight and I am unable to do it by hand.
I put it back together...did it correctly thanks to checking out a few diagrams on the net and I oiled (lightly) any part that requires some. Function checked...it "works" BUT sadly the issue is still here
Greenhorse six
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Worn or out of spec hand [pall] ?
Just throwing this out there , When you #### the hammer for single action does everything seem to move easy ?
Just throwing this out there , When you #### the hammer for single action does everything seem to move easy ?
Greenhorse six
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Or it might be the hammer block is not in properly .
If you can try working the action with the side plate off to get a look at what is or isn't happing in there.
If you can try working the action with the side plate off to get a look at what is or isn't happing in there.
I don't think it is the first one...tried it both with and without the hammer block in place, same issues.
I can see what is going on but there are so many movements/contact places and I am no expert to know by sight alone which one/s are causing the "issues".
None of us remembered to tell you that the ejector rod is a left hand thread.
Try it again with some gentle persuasion with pliers and good firm padding such as leather. Also the key and pins that retain the star are not that big or strong. So it's normal with a rod that isn't finger tight to fill the chambers with empty casings to take the torque load instead of the poor little pins. You want to use empties so they fit tighter instead of loose fitting snap caps.
Try it again with some gentle persuasion with pliers and good firm padding such as leather. Also the key and pins that retain the star are not that big or strong. So it's normal with a rod that isn't finger tight to fill the chambers with empty casings to take the torque load instead of the poor little pins. You want to use empties so they fit tighter instead of loose fitting snap caps.
Another way to remove the ejector rod if you don't have the right tool is to use a drill chuck. Put a strip of leather around the ejector rod to protect the finish, and turn the chuck by hand. Works quite well.
What's you cylinder gap measuring ? Cylinder rotates freely on the crane ? If you open the cylinder and spin it does the ejector wobble ? When you pull the trigger and it jams check and see how the locking bolt is functioning. All indicative of different issues with different fixes
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
Off topic, but join EESA...crumlin is not a happy place to shoot restricteds....unless it's changed. It used to be Fudd central...only load 5..no rapid fire...OMG a holster!!!! GET OUT OF HERE YOU COWBOY....
EESA rocks, they love guns and shooters in general. If i lived closer i'd be a member there in a second.
If crumlin has changed, my apologies and i'm open to correction....i'm sure someone here can answer that.
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
DAMN! ok, i learned a new trick today! thanks!
Or even better, if we're going to discuss tools, is to just grab it in your bench vise with a U strip of leather to pad the jaws. A bench vise trumps fussing with a drill chuck any day of the week.
I mentioned pliers because I know everyone has them. But really if we're all working on guns some sort of medium size (15 to 25 lbs) bench vise is going to act as the handy "third hand" that we all need so often. And since the crane and cylinder assembly needs to come out of the gun anyway it's easy to use the bench vise that we should all have.
Some other ideas:
1. Is the barrel serial numbered to the rest of the gun? There a few ex-prohibs that have replacement barrels which in turn could lead to out of spec spacing with the rod.
2. Is the cylinder stop dropping downward with a pull of the hammer or trigger. I've seen examples of "smoothed" actions where sufficient metal was removed from the trigger that the cylinder isn't completely unlocked when the pawl wants to start it turning.
1. Is the barrel serial numbered to the rest of the gun? There a few ex-prohibs that have replacement barrels which in turn could lead to out of spec spacing with the rod.
2. Is the cylinder stop dropping downward with a pull of the hammer or trigger. I've seen examples of "smoothed" actions where sufficient metal was removed from the trigger that the cylinder isn't completely unlocked when the pawl wants to start it turning.
I can't agree with that advice. The bench vise or pliers can easily bend, or mar the finish of the ejector rod. The drill chuck has 3 points of contact, so it is less risky. But I believe the correct tool is the way to go for anyone that intends to disassemble these revolvers routinely. There are several on the market that are reasonably priced.
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