So my Stevens is Chinese
- Thread starter sniper762
- Start date
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
So I actually just took about a half hour, and ripped apart the trigger group on mine.
It is very simple and straight forward, and should be easy for anyone to do with a little bit of mechanical skill.
I couldn't find anything online about disassembly of the trigger group, or anything remotely close, but like I said it is pretty straight forward. Just be sure to study how it works, and what goes where, prior to ripping it apart.
I polished the contact surfaces on the hammer, and trigger(no sear) and I also cut a coil off of the hammer/main spring. I am going to go back and forth from the work bench to the range to see how much can be cut off with out affecting the reliability of the hammer/firing pin striking the primers, but it is pretty stiff, and the hammer hits pretty hard, so I assume I could remove more. Don't want to take any chances though.
Really this is an idiot proof trigger job, as long as you stick to just polishing the trigger, and hammer surfaces, and use the hammer/mainspring to decrease the pull weight. Even if you cut it too short, and started seeing light primer strikes, the design of the mainspring, and how it fits in the trigger group, would allow for you to shim it with washers or such in order to make the spring stronger again.
I will put up a little tutorial when I figure out how much can be chopped without affecting the reliability.
It is very simple and straight forward, and should be easy for anyone to do with a little bit of mechanical skill.
I couldn't find anything online about disassembly of the trigger group, or anything remotely close, but like I said it is pretty straight forward. Just be sure to study how it works, and what goes where, prior to ripping it apart.
I polished the contact surfaces on the hammer, and trigger(no sear) and I also cut a coil off of the hammer/main spring. I am going to go back and forth from the work bench to the range to see how much can be cut off with out affecting the reliability of the hammer/firing pin striking the primers, but it is pretty stiff, and the hammer hits pretty hard, so I assume I could remove more. Don't want to take any chances though.
Really this is an idiot proof trigger job, as long as you stick to just polishing the trigger, and hammer surfaces, and use the hammer/mainspring to decrease the pull weight. Even if you cut it too short, and started seeing light primer strikes, the design of the mainspring, and how it fits in the trigger group, would allow for you to shim it with washers or such in order to make the spring stronger again.
I will put up a little tutorial when I figure out how much can be chopped without affecting the reliability.
I bought the Field Model a couple months ago to use as a clays gun.
Works great. Only had one problem with it... I took a shot and it got jammed up and I couldn't cycle the action. Took the barrel off to no avail... I kept pulling on the pump for like, 15 minutes, and finally it cycled and the shell ejected. Worked perfectly for the rest of the day.
Works great. Only had one problem with it... I took a shot and it got jammed up and I couldn't cycle the action. Took the barrel off to no avail... I kept pulling on the pump for like, 15 minutes, and finally it cycled and the shell ejected. Worked perfectly for the rest of the day.
I bought the Field Model a couple months ago to use as a clays gun.
Works great. Only had one problem with it... I took a shot and it got jammed up and I couldn't cycle the action. Took the barrel off to no avail... I kept pulling on the pump for like, 15 minutes, and finally it cycled and the shell ejected. Worked perfectly for the rest of the day.
I had an old ithica do that to me. I used aluminum based shells. I think all shotguns will jam with aluminum based target loads. I think the aluminum swells and jams in the chamber if the aluminum base was out of spec to begin with. Most people just smash the butt of the shotgun on the ground but the ithica has only one action bar so I refrained from doing that. I took it to a smith, he unjamed it and told me to stop using garbage aluminum ammo.
sendmorebrains
Regular
I had an old ithica do that to me. I used aluminum based shells. I think all shotguns will jam with aluminum based target loads. I think the aluminum swells and jams in the chamber if the aluminum base was out of spec to begin with. Most people just smash the butt of the shotgun on the ground but the ithica has only one action bar so I refrained from doing that. I took it to a smith, he unjamed it and told me to stop using garbage aluminum ammo.
If you want your shotgun to cycle alu ammo - the chamber needs to be polished shiny.
