STAG 10 Build Accuracy 1.5-2 MOA

I know a few guys are good shooters that compete alot. But the rifle just wouldn't shoot. Although I do agree such guns take more skill to shoot. And I'm not too sure of the components and the build. But I do know alot of $ was spent for the same result as off the shelf guns haha. That would be depressing.
 
Longboat said:
I have seen alot of people in the last year or two pour a ton of $ into BCL 102 and Stag 10. Not sure why, but all the ones I have seen are less than impressive with factory ammo and or handloads.

Why? I dont know. Just something I have seen many times recently.
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Non restricted and similar to AR10/15. Everybody wants a semi-auto DMR.
 
cr5 said:
Trying to watch your bullet hit the target, you should be in a stable shooting position, looking through the scope at the target through the shot, a lot of people (I'm not saying you're doing it) have a tendency to look up over the scope as soon as they pull the trigger.




It's not that much different, you just have to deal with the extra recoil impulses generated by the bolt and buffer travelling back, hitting the back of the buffer tube, then slamming home again. The bullet should be long gone while all this is happening but it can force you to change/reset your position between shots.




Try some 155gr match ammo or even just try some different 168 range stuff.
1.5-2 moa consistently isn't really terrible, my Modern Hunter in 6.5 Creedmoor is only consistently shooting around 1 moa (sometimes more, sometimes less) with a Proof CF wrapped barrel and handloads. My Krieger barreled M14 is around the same.

Keep in mind that some guys like to post that their rifle shoots sub moa when in reality they only actually shot one lucky sub moa group out of a whole day of shooting then claim that their rifle is easy sub moa. I consider the claim to shoot sub moa to mean that it does it every group, every day.
I see very few posts with guys actually showing pics of their groups, definitely never any sub 1 moa 10 round groups. When someone claims that their rifle shoots sub 1 moa I don't believe it unless they show a picture of their targets that don't have 200 holes in them with 5 close ones circled. Even if they did I'd be skeptical as I have owned a lot of expensive semi auto rifles with quality barrels and very very few of them would shoot as well as a lot of the guys on this site claim their factory barreled rifle will shoot.
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I see. I have noticed that I seem to pull to the right after my shots, but have been working on that for a bit now. However it does cause me to have to reset my position.

Considering what some claims on this site about accuracy it did have me worried, but I will try some of the 155 grain you mentioned.
 
Epoxy7 said:
Line up target, squeeze trigger and hold. Don’t snap trigger and keep rifle on target the entire time even slightly past the shot breaking. That’s called follow through.

On good target bolt action rifles the lock time from trigger release to ignition is substantially less than with an AR10. The Gieselle trigger mitigates some of this but it’s still substantially slower. If the rifle moves during this time your groups will open up. Even after the trigger breaks since there is that lock time before the round ignited and is down the barrel. You can get away with a lot more with the bolt action.
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I seem to have sisues with keeping the rifle on target after the shot, but believe that is me not correctly setting up behind the rifle. Have been trying to adjust accordingly to various degrees of success.

I have noticed there is a significant difference in lockuptime between the bolt rifle and the semi-auto.
 
greg olmstead said:
Follow through is a huge thing shooting a semi. I have good days and bad days shooting my stag 10. If I'm not focused my stag 10 is a 1.5 moa rifle or worse. If I'm on the ball focused and in a good mood it's a .6-.7 moa rifle sometimes less if I'm really on my a game. Like epoxy7 said the lock time is different than a bolt action and you need to really be looking for it to notice it. The time between trigger break and ignition is almost 2x that of a bolt action. A lot can happen in that split second to mess up a group. Your heart could beat or you start to exhale that's all it takes with a semi auto.

A good solid rest and rear bag make a world of difference. I bipod you dont need to preload is a huge help too. Going from a Harris to a remple will shrink your groups substantially. You still need follow through though. The rifle needs to recoil too so a sled isnt the best way to do accuracy testing either.

The best thing you can do is find a comfortable repeatable position and just practice. There is no replacement for trigger time

A good rear stock that doesnt hop in the bag will help too. A luth ar MBA 3 or magpul prs. Something with a long flat spot on the bottom. A saber tube is going to catch the bag and make the rifle hop on recoil. You need it to slide. This is also magnified with a bipod you need to pre load. They hop.

Wind. Watch the wind. Watch for it to change. A 10 mph cross wind that gusts to 15 or 20 is going to open up your group too. Even at 100.
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I bought the Luth stock previously but had some issue with the geissele charging handle with it so left the magpul Moe stock on it.

Do you have any other recommendations besides the PRS?.

Also still need to learn how to read the wind better. Although on the last range day the wind was minimal.
 
Longboat said:
I know a few guys are good shooters that compete alot. But the rifle just wouldn't shoot. Although I do agree such guns take more skill to shoot. And I'm not too sure of the components and the build. But I do know alot of $ was spent for the same result as off the shelf guns haha. That would be depressing.
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With the money spent, I kind of wish I hadjl just got an MR308 for a little more money so I know it's me.
 
JNA said:
With the money spent, I kind of wish I hadjl just got an MR308 for a little more money so I know it's me.
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How do you figure the MR308 will be more accurate?

Also are you sure the twist rate is 1:11 and not 1:10 with your barrel? It does make a difference. If 1:10 then along with shooter error your results would make sense. Ammo options I mentioned before would would likely shrink the groups very noticeable. Especially the lapua 167 vs 168 federal match. If not then something is off. If 1:11 then it should shoot the federal gold.
 
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As discussed, you should consider reloading for this rifle. I would use a start load of H4895 and the 168gr MK and work up.

Assuming a factory load will work in every barrel is selling the rifle short. Semis are/can be very fussy about their tuning. From how much pressure you allow into your BCG, strength of buffer spring, weight of the buffer, weight of the BCG, etc... and of course, the consistency that you can send each shot all have an affect.

You are part of the recoiling bits and forces so consistency in your follow through matters.

If you are having that much trouble, send me the rifle and I will give it a go. If there is something wrong with the barrel, I will take care of it... Let's get it sorted out.

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...Modern-Hunter-3rd-MH-tested-with-Proof-barrel

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...uning-for-BCL-102-2-at-250yds-100yds-and-DONE

Might give you some info on how touchy these rifles can be to tune... but they can shoot.

Jerry
 
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Epoxy7 said:
How do you figure the MR308 will be more accurate?

Also are you sure the twist rate is 1:11 and not 1:10 with your barrel? It does make a difference. If 1:10 then along with shooter error your results would make sense. Ammo options I mentioned before would would likely shrink the groups very noticeable. Especially the lapua 167 vs 168 federal match. If not then something is off. If 1:11 then it should shoot the federal gold.
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Assumed they had a guarantee of 1 MOA, so then I would know it would be me.

Yes I ordered the barrel with a 1:11 twist so am sure it is at that.
 
Mystic Precision said:
As discussed, you should consider reloading for this rifle. I would use a start load of H4895 and the 168gr MK and work up.

Assuming a factory load will work in every barrel is selling the rifle short. Semis are/can be very fussy about their tuning. From how much pressure you allow into your BCG, strength of buffer spring, weight of the buffer, weight of the BCG, etc... and of course, the consistency that you can send each shot all have an affect.

You are part of the recoiling bits and forces so consistency in your follow through matters.

If you are having that much trouble, send me the rifle and I will give it a go. If there is something wrong with the barrel, I will take care of it... Let's get it sorted out.

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...Modern-Hunter-3rd-MH-tested-with-Proof-barrel

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...uning-for-BCL-102-2-at-250yds-100yds-and-DONE

Might give you some info on how touchy these rifles can be to tune... but they can shoot.

Jerry
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Hi Jerry,

Yes we did discuss it and still haven't gotten a chance to reload, but after trying even more different types of ammo started getting frustrated and thought more heads might help solve it.

I am going to try a couple more things (including hopefully some reloads), but if the issue persists I may need to take you up on your offer.
 
If you reload, consider H4895, Sierra 168gr MK, CCI 200 primer in Win, or Lapua or PRVI brass.

Start at 39.5gr and work up in 0.2gr increments towards 41.5gr. My testing showed a number of rifles preferred loads in the 40.5 to 40.8gr range.

That will give you a solid ball park to look for an accurate load.

Factory ammo is geared for bolt rifles and that level of powder pressure and burn rates rarely work in semis.

Jerry
 
From my initial testing doing an OCW test with my labradar my shilen 1:10 24" likes 175gr SMK at roughly 2740 FPS. RWS cases 45gr varget GM210M loaded 0.010 of the lands. Still fits in the pmag, but some will drag depending on bullet length variation. If you know someone with a chronograph it could save you a lot of time.

Reloading isn't all that expensive to get into, especially if you're looking to make your rifle as good as it can get.

This is a max published load which I worked up from minimum, so don't use it without doing your own workup.
 
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