Starr DA 44 revolver - question!

H Wally

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Wondering if anyone knows how the ram lever catch is installed/removed from the gun?

Best I can figure out is that the cross pin is driven out one way or another, but gentle tapping hasn't moved it either direction and I feel like more force may irreperably damage it if it isn't the correct way or removal. My reason for removing is that the spring that keeps the catch engaged is too weak to hold it in place, so the catch releases the lever, which falls and engages the ram in the cylinder, essentially jamming the gun.

138d3c17.jpg
 
This diagram shows the pin #27 as a separate part and it looks like it is a press fit so you can take it from there. Good Luck

starrdaeclate-01.jpg
 
This diagram shows the pin #27 as a separate part and it looks like it is a press fit so you can take it from there. Good Luck

starrdaeclate-01.jpg

Thanks skinny! That's basically what I was looking for - penetrating oil and gentle taps it is!!!

Also, keep posted for a thread on getting an antique start back out shooting :D
 
Did you get it out???

take care

jpc

Hahahahah - I actually didn't :p :redface: That project was backburnered, but since I have time now, I guess I should eh?


What size ball do you use. Been told a .451 or .458 maybe under sized for these guns?

These guns are all over the map - anywhere from .450 to .464 in my experience, and that's with nice shiny sharp bores! I get around this by shooting pure lead .455 hollow base bullets - they've got wide grease grooves and a deep base so they'll expand out and fit just about any bore in that range. Only problem is that I don't have a mold of my own and I've run out :( Anyone know where to find the RCBS .455 HB bullet molds?
 
Hey Wally.
I have the SA gun, and the DA model. The DA was having the same problem, may as well try it. You are right, just a tight straight pin. Either side is good.
I removed the lever. I used a 3 inch long piece of hardwood, drilled a 11/32nd hole length-wise through it, then split it to give a channel for the lever to lay in. and a 1/8 hole for the pin to drop into. Taped the lever to the block. A couple whacks with a small hammer, then a pin punch, and done.
Pin was tight to get out, easy in. (word from the not so wise, put the catch right side up the first time)..
 
Is that your Starr pictured?

That one's a stock photo. My first antique was one nicer than that though ;)

Hey Wally.
I have the SA gun, and the DA model. The DA was having the same problem, may as well try it. You are right, just a tight straight pin. Either side is good.
I removed the lever. I used a 3 inch long piece of hardwood, drilled a 11/32nd hole length-wise through it, then split it to give a channel for the lever to lay in. and a 1/8 hole for the pin to drop into. Taped the lever to the block. A couple whacks with a small hammer, then a pin punch, and done.
Pin was tight to get out, easy in. (word from the not so wise, put the catch right side up the first time)..

Thanks oldiron! I was wondering if there was a direction it tapped out in - I know some guns have a slight taper, a shoulder, or other unseen physical difference side to side that end up peening themselves in place when you don't know they're there :p :/

Yep, going to have to get to work on her I guess... this' attracting too much attention to ignore :p
 
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