starter flinty

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f_soldaten04

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I want to get into bp shooting. I have only a basic knowledge of them. I would like to know where to get a cheapish starter flintlock rifle (i take even reproductions are classified as "antiques?). Are the kits easy to assemble with simple tools? thanks in advance
 
I would strongly suggest buying one with a good lock; the rest can be crap but if the lock is cheap, you will end up beating your head against the wall. Strongly suggest Siler or L&R locks and avoiding Italian locks carte blanche.
I think you have a couple of choices; buying a cheap kit or second hand rifle for $250 - $500 then adding a $120 Siler lock or buying a kit that uses Siler or L&R locks to start with and hopefully find such a kit for around $7-$800
The problem with the first option is that you may have a lot of difficulty trying to fit a new probably larger lock to the inexpensive gun.

cheers mooncoon
 
Wow thanks mooncoon! Ive also thought about matchlock muskets and arquebuses. I am just wondering if it is wise to start with these. They are not easy to come by, but a simple arquebus with a plain serpentine lock should not be hard for someone to build. Here is a rather affordable matchlock:
http://www.englisharmourie.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Gallery/Muskets/muskets.html
Now, I dont know about importing these to Canada, but will it be easy, as they require no license in Canada?(the problem is getting it out of Britain, it seems!)
 
My first ML is a TC Hawken .54. When I bought 20+years ago, you needed to do a lot of metal working and wood fitting. Now they come with the barrel completly blued and accesories attached.

I would also stay away from super cheap ones from CVA or Cabelas. I would seriously look at TC or even Dixie gunworks. At dixie, you can pick and choose parts to make a gun or buy a kit already put together. The Log Cabin Shop is another place to look.
 
I would stay away from matchlocks initially, assuming you are looking for something to shoot. You will find even a good flintlock, a learning experience as well as lots of fun. I currently shoot a flinter by preference and while I consider them accurate and reliable, they also are more challenging than a percussion gun.
Where abouts on the island are you? I am in Nanaimo.

cheers mooncoon
 
Im also in Nanaimo, mooncoon. Just another question. How are Lyman and Traditions flintlocks? The seem to be at the lower price range. Also, would it be recommended that a left handed shooter use a left handed gun, or doesnt it pose much of a problem?
 
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I think Lyman imports a nice looking gun, not sure how dependable the lock is. A left handed lock is an excellent idea for a sinister person :>) although some do shoot right handed guns because the left ones can be hard to find. I may be wrong but I think many of the better kits come right or left. Either way be sure to wear eye protection of some kind.

cheers mooncoon
 
The Lyman are better rifles than the Traditions, IMHO. I have a Lyman Deerstalker percussion, and am very happy with it. I also have a Austin and Halleck Mountain rifle in flintlock, and really like it. But I don't think it is of any better quality than the Lyman.
 
I've only seen one Traditions in flint,it sparked so-so,she was having ignition problems, there was some kind of problem with the vent,I think it was angled .I believe she said it had a 1 yr warranty.
 
I have a Traditions Hawken flinter and love it. The gun is very nicely put together, but I agree the lock (although is nicely colour cased hardened) is small and of lesser quality than the TC.

But... it's a very nice gun overall. I'm changing my lock for a larger one, but the old one does flash every time.

It's a cheap way to get into flintlock.

Edit: I'm also a lefty and shoot the right hand lock without any problems. (remember to shout "flint" and warn the poor shooter next to you!)
 
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At least some spanish percussion rifles were made with a drum that screws almost all the way through both sides of the barrel. The flash channel then enters the bore via a small hole not much over 1/8" diameter which turns a 90 degree to the drum (ie a dogs leg). The problem is that this small hole is very prone to fouling then the gun will not fire.
these same guns when made as flintlocks use the same breach which forces them to have a vent liner which screws almost all the way through the barrel and of course still has a dog leg to the line of the flash. This vent liner more correctly is a bushing replacing the original drum and a short small liner screwed into the bushing
Original rifles and quality replicas when using a drum for percussion or a liner for flint, have it screwed only through one side of the barrel. A vent liner should be bored out on the inside so tht the powder comes almost to the outer edge of the barrel for fast ignition

cheers mooncoon
 
Ah, well traditions have addressed that, the vent liner is deeply concave to bring the flash close to the powder. And is is only bored into the one side.
 
The bushing is not always obvious. I recently worked on gun which at first appeared to have a conventional vent liner but only 1/4 diameter one. Closer examination showed that it screwed into a bushing. I suspect the diameter of the vent liner is one indication of the possibility of a bushing. If the vent liner is obviously 5/16" diameter, there is almost certainly no extra bushing. If the liner is 1/4", there may or may not be a bushing

cheers mooncoon
 
Yes, the vent liner is mounted in something other than the barrel. There's a larger circular ring flush with the barrel.

Presumably this was once the percussion drum now cut flush and drilled for a vent liner?
 
The drum was not cut off and the gun modified. The gun was made using the same barrel and breach assembly and a bushing was installed to hold the vent liner. A bushing had to be installed because there was a threaded hold in the far side of the plug and barrel.

cheers mooncoon
 
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