- Location
- Vancouver Island, BC
Looks great. I ordered some from Canadian Tire and will try it on some cz stocks.
Stock Refinishing, before and after Schaftol oil treatment
- Thread starter The Kurgan
- Start date
- Location
- Steel Town
bobbybirds
New member
- Location
- Water Valley Alberta
That looks really nice... What are you rubbing the oil in with? Just a cloth or are you actually sanding it in with an extremely fine abrasive?
- Location
- Steel Town
The CZ "oiled" factory finish is just right for oil application. I use a cotton sock or linen cloth. Very thin coats, and 24 hours between coats. If there are any flaws, they can be steamed out prior to oil application. Sometimes a light "wiping" with quality 320 grit sandpaper, prior to oiling, helps to open the pores--but nothing aggressive.
bobbybirds
New member
- Location
- Water Valley Alberta
Excellent! I just picked up a brand new CZ557 with some nice curl in the walnut I would like to make pop a wee bit more. I have used 0000 wire wool in woodworking for applying BLO, Danish oil etc and was going to do that with the stock but I might try your method first. The pics make the wood look so nice and warm!
- Location
- Steel Town
That stuff is like liquid gold, buy a few and save them.
- Location
- Steel Town
Just note... this oil in no way alters a factory stock. It simply nourishes the wood, better protects the wood from the elements, and as a side benefit it often improves the appearance of the wood by bringing-out those beautiful mineral streaks inherent in most decent cuts of walnut. Have no fear, you are not de-valuing a factory original stock, only preserving it.
- Location
- Steel Town
One other note. It is always a good idea to first thoroughly clean the stock and then wipe it down with a damp rag. Let it fully dry, then apply a few thin coats of oil, waiting a day between coats. It always dries to a dull sheen. If after a few hours the wood still looks wet, wipe it down with a clean cloth to remove the excess oil, and allow it to dry for 24 hours. The level of shine depends on how smooth your wood is. This oil does not add a surface layer.
My a400s are not finished well at all. Another shortcut beretta is taking. I love the guns they work great just the wood finish is pathetic. A turkish gun thats cheaper than the tax of my a400 will have a better wood finish.
I hunt with all 3 of my a400s. They could use a oil to seal the pores and help protect the wood
I hunt with all 3 of my a400s. They could use a oil to seal the pores and help protect the wood
- Location
- Steel Town
Wood finishes on most rifles seem to be imperfect to down right pathetic these days unless you're spending $4000+ and even then they're not always great. At least with the factory "oil" finishes on modern CZs they are easy to nourish. I just pulled out my 1991 Ruger M77 and examined it's polyurethane finish, and it was still perfect. My $407 (tax and shipping all in) Canuck Pioneer pump action shotgun has a great poly finish on lovely grained walnut... I will keep buying them. I can't imagine how much better it would look if I stripped and oiled it, but I am going to resist.
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These 2 have really well done factory finishes but id like to eventually send them out to have a real true oil finish. I think theyd look even better. The current finish has held up well on a season of hunting in all sorts of weather including duck hunting from my kayak
Attachments
- Location
- Steel Town
Gorgeous wood
Thanks. Pictures dont do these justice. Especially the ou.
- Location
- Steel Town
I can see that!
I picked some Shaftol over the weekend. Interestingly seems to be made by Ballistol, or both are made by the same company. Swift Current Canuck Tire only had 1 box of dark; they are quite small, how many stocks can you do to a bottle, 1?
- Location
- Steel Town
I can easily do 3 full stocks, 3-5 coats each, on one bottle. The key is THIN coats and you don't really need more than 3 in most cases.
