stovepipeing

OP - I am trying to understand the difficulty - do not know a solution, at all, but you wrote, "stovepipes the empties with the next round 3/4 chambered". So for symptoms that you can see - am I correct that the bolt had to go back far enough to pick up a new round, but can not chamber that new round, because the fired casing is still involved?? The empty one is not getting flung out of there, by the time a new one is on the way into the chamber??
 
Potashminer said:
OP - I am trying to understand the difficulty - do not know a solution, at all, but you wrote, "stovepipes the empties with the next round 3/4 chambered". So for symptoms that you can see - am I correct that the bolt had to go back far enough to pick up a new round, but can not chamber that new round, because the fired casing is still involved?? The empty one is not getting flung out of there, by the time a new one is on the way into the chamber??
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That's the impression I got from his description. Which makes me think it's a problem involving either just primary ejection (problem with a magazine feed lip ejector ridge being damaged or worn in some way) or both primary and secondary ejector flaws. The 10/22 offers dual ejection, the magazine feed lip kicking it out sideways, but failing that there's a backup ejector.

The only feeding problem I've seen so far with two 10/22 models is that one with a Dlask barrel seems to jam up on feeding a lot when the CCI SV I feed it is too heavily waxed. I'm finding cleaning out the wax and making sure I don't load the magazine with excessively waxed bullets prevents this. No such problem with my factory stainless chamber, so I'm thinking the Dlask barrel has tighter chamber tolerances. Might very slightly radius the chamber edge and see if that resolves the issue, as it's not always easy to spot excess wax thickness when loading, though I'd be careful not to remove more than a trace of steel from the edge.
 
I would start by doing a side by side comparison with your other 10/22, and seeing how the SR feels when compared directly. About the same weight to draw the bolt back? Any drag or grittiness?

Got a spare stock? Take the dress up parts off the action and see if the problems continue.

Does the stovepipe happen if you single load the mag and shoot?

Check that the scope mount screws are not dragging on the bolt, if there is a scope mounted. Happens.

Won't hurt to polish up the sliding parts. Might not solve the problem, but won't make it worse.

Good luck.
 
DOUGLAS D said:
My 10/22 is built with a Butler Creek stainless fluted target barrel and works flawlessly with about a half dozen 10 round ruger magazines.
Also have 3 ruger magazines with the red colour follower that cause it to stovepipe like the OP posted.
I’ve cured or at least improved function by giving the magazine a good shot of lube.
Might not be the same issue but worth a try.
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Many semi auto feeding issues the root cause turns out to be a faulty magazine. In my mind stovepiping is caused by an incorrect geometry.
Such as worm magazine lips.

To isolate this problem to specific magazine try out other magazines that are more trustworthy.

Maybe
 
well its a new gun very few rounds through it/. stovepipeing just as much as before with different ammo . it is clean inside. i bought 3 new ruger mags to try, no difference. it has a new kidd extractor and spring on it. the scope mount screws are not dragging. i can find no burs on it. i poured it full of G96 to try it wet wet. nothing helped. its really got me. im going to sub out the bolt and see what that does.
 
Check that the magazine spring isn't wound too tight or too loose. Easy to guess wrong if you've had it apart cleaning it, which ought to be done once a decade or so.

Also, I've seen CCI SV recently that had wax running to the side of the box, and trying to feed ammo that has that big a chunk of wax hanging off the side is a wide-open invitation to something misfeeding.
 
DANS40X said:
If all else fails.....STOP LIMP WRISTING THE PISTOL & your cycling issues will disappear.
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You have to be very aware of your habits (even ones that you may have developed recently). "Limp Wristing" is very common and easily correctable if you are aware of it. You won't notice it unless you deliberately solidify your grip during shooting and recoil. Hold it tight into your shoulder and do not anticipate the next round.
 
I had the issues with my sr22 as well I got new springs extractors and the like it didn’t fix it. After a few YouTube vids it turned out to be the magazine just not being held in as tight or aligned when firing. so my fix ended up taking the trigger group and filing the little plunger stop that pushes against the magazine a little so it stuck out further and pushed on the magazine a bit more for a tighter fit haven’t had an issue since.
 
Jest4phun said:
I had the issues with my sr22 as well I got new springs extractors and the like it didn’t fix it. After a few YouTube vids it turned out to be the magazine just not being held in as tight or aligned when firing. so my fix ended up taking the trigger group and filing the little plunger stop that pushes against the magazine a little so it stuck out further and pushed on the magazine a bit more for a tighter fit haven’t had an issue since.
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did that today actually. tried 7 different mags
 
You have tried everything possible.
Bend that SOB around a tree!

Just kidding and good luck. Wish I could help.
 
Is there a possibility you have over tweeked your rifle. Your cases are ejecting correctly and are not weak but your bolt is traveling too fast because of polishing and lubrication and not giving the cases time to clear the ejection ports.
I would be tempted to clean all the lubricants of the rails and bolt and see how it runs dry.
 
Have you tried to cycle it slow by hand to see what exactly is going on? ,Or fast by hand with loaded ammo in the mag, do they clear the gun and a new round load ?
If the empty case is not fully ejecting, it will jam the stroke up .
Chamber sticky, gummed up, bolt not going far enough back to kick the shell out, mag messing up somehow.
try it with a round in the chamber, and remove the mag , before you pull the trigger and see what the empty does.
A hi speed camera would be neat as hell sometimes, I am not up on new smart phones, can you do that?
.A new round should drop into the chamber and fall back out with out help if the chamber is O.K./ clean.
 
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Remove the barreled action from the chassis and shoot it. If it still stove pipes, wipe off all lubricants and shoot it dry.

Try different magazines, without the chassis you should be able go tell if they are engaging properly.

Try some ammo from a different carton/case.

Make the changes one at a time

Good luck
 
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