Stripped a bolt... any tips on how to get this rail off?

20240805_094458.jpgplease allow me to introduce myself,i'm a tool of wealth and fame.
Just kidding.this is a "woodpecker".guaranteed to get out rusted/seized/stripped screws.
It requires an air compressor though.
 
FatCatsDad said:
I drill the head off then grab stud with lines pliers and within tension it comes out easy.
Drill bit used is the next fractional size up from screw head Diameter.

Heads up, the rail is destroyed doing this.

Yiur screw heads are in the slots on the rail, you can use a hack saw blade and cut a slot for a screw driver.

Either way you should be able to get it on your own.

A gunsmith is generally not viable, People just assume there's a gun Smith 15 minutes away from everyone
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The proper drill size is not bigger than the head but is actually the size of the threaded screw itself. The screws heads are in the slots but are below the bottom of the pic slots so cutting with a hacksaw blade would require cutting the pic base. If the screws heads were proud of the slots in the rail then mounting anything wouldn’t be possible.
 
Longstud said:
The proper drill size is not bigger than the head but is actually the size of the threaded screw itself. The screws heads are in the slots but are below the bottom of the pic slots so cutting with a hacksaw blade would require cutting the pic base. If the screws heads were proud of the slots in the rail then mounting anything wouldn’t be possible.
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Drilling the same diameter as the screw will not remove tge head to allow tge base to come off.

In the picture posted it looks like he backed out tge screws part way leaving the head above the base
 
You want the drill to sever the head of the screw at the junction with the threaded portion. The stripped socket in the head will center the drill bit. The drill bit needs to be the clearance diameter of the screw or larger. For example, a 6-48 screw needs a tap sized drill bit #31; clearance size is #28. So the drill bit to use is a #28 or slightly larger. With a smaller drill bit, there is less likelihood of damaging the base. The more valuable or difficult to replace, the more sense it makes to save the base.
Drilling out a stripped slotted screw is a bit more complicated, because the thing has to be center punched to get the drill bit started. Often the surface is messed up, so some fiddling is necessary to get the bit running smoothly on center.
Then there can be the complication of heat treated, hardened screws...
 
FatCatsDad said:
if you read the thread I suggested drilling the heads off in post #4 , guntech repeated what I suggested in post #9, I then repeated it again in post #14 as it is the best way to accomplish this small task.
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but your advise did suck. You said to use a drill LARGER then the screw head and then somehow grabbing onto the "stud" with pliers? Do you mean doing this after you take the other screws and rail off and have a theaded portion sticking up out of your action?


Explain to the folks at home how using the clearance drill for the thread size wouldnt remove the head again?

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Jahnj0584 said:
but your advise did suck. You said to use a drill LARGER then the screw head and then somehow grabbing onto the "stud" with pliers? Do you mean doing this after you take the other screws and rail off and have a theaded portion sticking up out of your action?


Explain to the folks at home how using the clearance drill for the thread size wouldnt remove the head again?

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Nah I'll pass on your game, Ive dealt with narcissistic people like you.
I know what I meant and know it works.
Destroying the rail doesn't bother me as it's usually a crappy $10 weaver installed by someone whose used loctite and overtightened it.
 
Now that the head is completely rounded out, start the drilling with a drill that fits in that hole just a short distance creating a center for the small drill (just a few thou over the thread diameter) to center on. When this drill reaches the screw thread, the head will pop off. The rail will not be damaged.
 
Princess Auto also sells broken screw extractors. Mine came in a set of 3. Beats all the above pounding, drilling, force fitting etc.
 
Get a correctly sized quality easy-out/screw extractor - not a Crappy Tire or Amazon deal of the day ... Assume whoever installed it used thread locker, pray it is blue and not red. If it won't come out first try use a little heat (a little)
If still no, refer to post #4, #9 and #14 ~drill the heads off.

Basically Try the tool designed for the job first, then go on to destructive removal.

(I wonder if a "mini impact drive" is a thing???)
 
I've had some success removing bubbad screws using an elastic band in the hole then inserting the tool.
Works somewhat OK removing rounded out Robertson wood screws
 
guntech said:
Now that the head is completely rounded out, start the drilling with a drill that fits in that hole just a short distance creating a center for the small drill (just a few thou over the thread diameter) to center on. When this drill reaches the screw thread, the head will pop off. The rail will not be damaged.
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Perfect advice and even an avearge joe on a cordless drill free hand can pull this off...... Easy Peasy if you have a drill and a set of steel drill bits that are reasonably sharp.

Easy-out's take more skill to use then the name suggests.
 
FatCatsDad said:
I've had some success removing bubbad screws using an elastic band in the hole then inserting the tool.
Works somewhat OK removing rounded out Robertson wood screws
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Buddy has sort of passed the point of no return with his rounded out head.... :)

There is a product out there called "screw out" that is basically a course lapping compound and you drop it into a mangled screw head to increase the friction and bite for a last ditch effort....

Removing stuck fasteners is a bit of an art, even after the head is drilled off that bolt the OP will need a good set of vice grips, attached firmly to the shaft, and likely some heat and vibration to break the bond that caused the issue in the first place.
 
I'd also lay down a strip or 2 of electrical tape around the screws after the rail is off, push the tape over the studs.

It will protect the reciever from scrapes and scratches if you slip with the pliers.
 
I suppose there is an offside chance that a stubby screw extractor might engage in the rounded out socket.
There is no room to drill deeper for the extractor, might just as well remove the head.
 
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