Stubborn squib

I had one in my revolver befor it was such a bicth i had to take it to the gunsmith and he tried everything baning it out didnt work tired shooting a blank in it, still stayed there . He then tried to drill it out no luck ,the last chance was to take the barrel off so he could try from the other end but befor he did that he tried with the drill again and baning it out this time it worked
When the round came out it was in perfect condition but now it looked like a hollow point
 
Oil in the barrel, pad your vice really well (rubber matting or similar) and clamp down hard, use a rod that's only slightly smaller than the bore, hammer hard!
 
I blocked him before he got pinked. Was just looking for good tips, no silly back and forth. There’s a place for that and it’s called YouTube.

Thanks for the info lads, i will try a thick rod and hammer before a blank. I thought it would be easier to remove so I didn’t go to town at first but sounds like it’s harder than I was thinking so I’ll try again and let you all know.
 
this may contradict the commonly shared "wisdom" but DO NOT use a brass / any other soft metal rod. Read this excerpt from "Professional gunsmithing " by Walter Howe. Let me know if you need the pictures referenced in the text:

Quote:
"Pounding It Out. If there is only a bullet, and no other obstruction, such as rods, et cetera, lodged in a bore, then the first attempt at removal should be by the old reliable pounding-out method. After determining which end of the barrel the bullet is stuck nearest, shoot a few squirts of oil along the path the bullet will have to follow in being forced out. Naturally, the path chosen should be the shortest one of travel, unless other extenuating factors preclude this course. Next, select a piece of drill rod of a size about .005″ less than the bore diameter, true up one end, and slightly chamfer the edge on this end so that no cutting edge will score the bore should the rod go off its course.

Note: Under no circumstances use brass or other soft metal for a driving-out rod. Such type of rod is not only useless, but often swages the obstruction more firmly in place or becomes swaged in place itself.

The proper diameter rod having been selected and faced off, push it up to the obstruction. At this point, and this is important:


No More Then Six Inches of the Rod, Should Project Beyond the End of the Gun.
If the rod selected allows more than this length, all in excess should be cut off, even though the remaining length will not go all the way through the bore. The piece cut off can be utilized to make up this difference in length after the bore obstruction has been pushed farther along. However, at no time during the operation should more than six inches of unsupported rod be pounded upon. This, as stated before, is most important, if not the whole secret of performing a successful job, because it prevents bending of the rod and consequent failure to move the lodgment.
Before describing the proper method of procedure for the next step of actually hammering out the obstruction, perhaps it would not be amiss to comment on the theory behind the action so that a more complete understanding of the situation might be gained.
Bullets for modern weapons are, as a general practice, made slightly larger in diameter than the bore of the gun through which they are to be fired. For example, the bore of the Springfield rifle is .300″ in diameter and the rifling is cut to a depth of .004″. Thus it can be seen that the “across the land” measurement of the bore is .300″ and the “across the groove” measurement is .308″. The bullet, however, is .309″ in diameter. Now let us consider another fact based on experiments conducted at Springfield Armory. These experiments showed that it requires in excess of 1,000 pounds per square inch of pressure to force a maximum diameter bullet through a minimum diameter bore.
From this it should be quite evident that light blows from a light hammer on a rod do nothing more than cause the lodged bullet to expand and become more firmly swaged in place. Therefore, when attempting to pound a lodged obstruction from the bore of any weapon, other than a shotgun, each blow delivered must be of sufficient force to move the bullet rather than just upset it; use a heavy hammer and “sock it”!
After the bullet is forced along the bore about 5″, the rod should be withdrawn and a 5″ piece of the same diameter rod, with both ends trued up and chamfered, pushed into the bore. Then reinsert the main rod and resume pounding. As the bullet is pushed down the bore about 5″, another short rod should be put in place, until the lodgment is knocked out completely. Any fragments of lead adhering to the interior bore surface can usually be freed by a vigorous bore scrubbing with a bronze wire brush held in a cleaning rod.
The small rods, or as a matter of fact all rods used for removing bore obstructions, should be cleaned after use, treated with a coating of grease and put away for future use. In this way the gunsmith will not have to run around looking for a miscellaneous collection of rods each time he is faced with a job of this sort.
If the gunsmith expects to do much bore obstruction removal via the rod and hammer method, he might well spend a few hours making up a set of rods as illustrated in Figure 35A. If properly cared for, they will outlast the gunsmith and help him to make many an honest dollar with a minimum of bruised knuckles. A main handle and five lengths of rod for .22 caliber, .25 caliber, .30 caliber, and .35 caliber should take care of all normally encountered weapons. The leather washer shown in the drawing is very important since it will act as a cushion and prevent marring the muzzle or receiver of a gun if the lodgment gives way suddenly under pressure from a well directed blow.

Drilling It Out. An alternative method of removing lodged bullets is to drill them out of the bore. This procedure is to be recommended only when all attempts to drive them out have proved to be of no
avail, for at best it is a task that requires a great deal of skill, understanding and patience.
After selecting the proper size drill (.010″ less than bore diameter) for the caliber of gun being worked upon, regrind the point to a 30° angle and proceed as follows (Figure 35B):
1) Put the drill in a lathe chuck or collet, making sure that the chuck jaws contact the shank part of the drill and not the flutes, and turn the shank down to 1/8″ diameter for a length of about 1/2″.
2) Take a 6″ piece of smooth, straight, brass rod that measures .003″ less than bore diameter and face both ends off true. Drill a 1/8″ hole to a depth of 1/2″ at each end and chamfer the corners.
FIGURE 35B
3) Select a piece of cold rolled steel or drill rod about .010″ in diameter less than bore size, and 24″ long, and turn one end to 1/8″ diameter for a length of 1/2″.
4) Tin, with acid core solder, the turned end of the drill shank, the turned end of the 24″ rod, and both holes in the length of brass. Then, with a Bunsen burner or alcohol torch, heat first one end of the brass piece
and the tinned drill shank, and sweat the latter into the former. Do the same to the other end of the brass section and 24″ rod, and sweat them together.
Used in a hand or breast drill, this type of drilling tool will maintain its center in the bore while cutting, because the near bore size brass piece serves as a constant guide and is not thrown off by any slight bending of the main rod.
Whatever bit of bullet remains in the bore after drilling out the main part can be driven out with a bore size rod, and then the bore should be completely cleaned with a brass brush.
In removing types of obstructions other than those specifically covered here, the gunsmith must evaluate each job at hand and decide just what is the most practical and safest way to do it. In all instances, though, it must be remembered that improper tools in the hands of an expert are just about as useless as the best tools in the hands of a novice."

End of quote
 
Color me stupid here if I'm wrong but wouldn't a small scale work here to weigh the bullets individually? A round empty or low on powder would show up.

There's a BC guide on YouTube tells a story of trusting someone else's handloads and grizzly bears. I won't after hearing his story.
 
douginont said:
Color me stupid here if I'm wrong but wouldn't a small scale work here to weigh the bullets individually? A round empty or low on powder would show up.

There's a BC guide on YouTube tells a story of trusting someone else's handloads and grizzly bears. I won't after hearing his story.
Click to expand...

Harder with Pistol reloads, some bullets can vary by almost 2 grains sometimes and so can brass
 
I have followed this thread since the beginning, minus the bs responses. I can't believe a pistol bullet has gotten than stuck. I've had 2 squibs in 20 plus years and both "tapped" out, no pounding needed. One was a brand new pistol also, so no worn out barrels. Be careful after you get the bullet out,something sounds fishy here. Just dismantle the ammo and harvest it for parts.

Imho
Corey
 
Something like this happened to a friend recently. A single bullet so stuck, it just wouldn't come out. A local 'smith took care of it. Ended up bringing out the drill.
 
Is it still in there?

Maybe turn the barrel upright and fill it, in the direction you want it to move, with something like WD40 or maybe break cleaner. Leave it over night. Try the pound out in the AM. WD40 is supposed to be left to work for a while.

Never had one stuck this bad. Usually just a few good whacks on a large enough metal dowel is good enough.

Best of luck
 
CoreyMac said:
I have followed this thread since the beginning, minus the bs responses. I can't believe a pistol bullet has gotten than stuck. I've had 2 squibs in 20 plus years and both "tapped" out, no pounding needed. One was a brand new pistol also, so no worn out barrels. Be careful after you get the bullet out,something sounds fishy here. Just dismantle the ammo and harvest it for parts.

Imho
Corey
Click to expand...

My thoughts also.
 
With a semi-auto pistol, I take the barrel out of the gun and clamp it in a vice. I use a Robertson screwdriver as a rod to knock the bullet out. The shank of the screwdriver has a wrap of tape at both ends to keep it well centered in the bore.
 
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