Sub-$500 Scope+Rings suggestions for a CZ 457 Noob

Actually it is a pretty lousy mount system if it can't handle using the scope as a carry handle... it wouldn't bother any of my rifles past or present.
 
I have an Athlon Argos Gen-2 in 8-34x56 on a CZ-457 VMTR in 22LR and have it mounted with Burris XTR Sigs, to allow a 30-MOA rail get down to 50yds. I can change inserts to go out past 200, also.
On my CZ455 with 0* rail and my Sav B-22 with oem mounts I used Vortex Pro LOW Rings on Covenant-4 6-24x50 scopes. Both rifles hit 1.5-2" at 100 with those scopes.
On a couple other rifles I have used Amazon rings with No Probs - ca $20 pairs - - but I don't carry with "scope-handles".
 
I like Riton; got a Riton 6-24 recently and put it on a 455. Perfect combo. I have another Riton 4-18 on a 6.5 x 55 Zastava and it has been doing a great job.

As good as or better than Vortex for less money.
 
I like Riton; got a Riton 6-24 recently and put it on a 455. Perfect combo. I have another Riton 4-18 on a 6.5 x 55 Zastava and it has been doing a great job.

As good as or better than Vortex for less money.

What rings are you using? Do you have any issues with shooting past 100yd without an MOA rail?
 
Have you had a chance to take your riton6-24 out with your cz? I'm looking at different options to pair with my cz457 and came across your posts and was wondering if its been working well for you.
 
8-32x50 ffp scope. Very nice glass. Better than basically everything in the price point. About the same as the vortex viper series. Comes with your choice of rings. 11mm dovetail is available. The rings are pretty cheap, they are aluminum, but they do work. A complete steal at the $325. Very nice reticle, illuminated, zero stop. Basically most of the bells and whistles of pricier scopes. You can step up to ED glass, but it will cost you about two hundred bucks more. They hold up to recoil well. I have a discovery optics on my 375 Ruger, and on my 300wsm. Very nice guy named Wes runs the store, he deals mostly in airgun stuff, but has started getting more scopes in.

**Image and video linking functions will be enabled after you have contributed more to the forum**
 
Last edited:
It depends on the scope you choose. Pay ATTENTION to the TOTAL MOA of a scope, then go for about 1/2 or less MOA for a rail for distance. And 'real long shots' may call for more MOA on the rail ? I'm not sure since I can only shoot ca 200 or less. Try to talk with 'long-range' shooters at your club. My Athlon Argos 8-34x56 FFP Only has 40-ish MOA TOTAL so I needed 20MOA going out to 175, and I had to rely on 'hold' at 20X to see the target at that distance. 34X reduced the visible reticle too much to see the target. I DIDN'T PAY ATTENTION TO THE SPECS when I bought the scope, and wasn't aware of the "1/2 MOA " guideline. It cost em $175 for Burris XTR rings, but better for the distant option than changing scopes OR changing Rails. YMMV - BE CAUTIOUS.

Im not understanding how increasing the power is reducing the reticle? If its a FFP scope the reticle increases in size with the magnification and if SFP the reticle is constant despite the power selected!! Im obviously missing or missunderstanding something
 
If you look thru an Athlon Argos 8-34X56 FFP scope, altho the reticle shows 40+ MOA 'bars' the actual available moa is ca 20-ish. At 8X you can 'see all 40-'bars' but when at 34X there are only 15-MOA visible (see reticles pic - http s://wolverinesupplies.com/shop/optics/scopes/athlon-argos-btr-g2-8-34x56-30mm-ffp-aplr2-ir-moa ) and I needed ca 19-MOA hold for 175 yds. Thus, I needed to reduce the Mag to have 20-ish bars 'visible'. THIS is why I advised OP to pay attention to the "Actual Total" MOA and divide by half to find the available 'holds' of up/down/Rt/Lt. Note, this is all with the scope
Zeroed at 50-yds.
 
Here's the only pic of shooting that 457 VMTR at 175-yds (at the time I was 'told' it was 180, but later I RF'd it ). The first shot is High-Off paper, then #2 was at the Top of the target to determine 'hold', then I got it dialled in (sorta). The group is ca 3"-wide X 5" High - the arms of the '+' are 2"-each, total 6"-wide/high.
I haven't spent much time on this LD, trying to focus on 100 instead. :rolleyes:
Range-7-20-23-CZ457-Rem-308-B22-180yds-edit-out-308.jpg
[/url][/IMG]
 
If you look thru an Athlon Argos 8-34X56 FFP scope, altho the reticle shows 40+ MOA 'bars' the actual available moa is ca 20-ish. At 8X you can 'see all 40-'bars' but when at 34X there are only 15-MOA visible (see reticles pic - http s://wolverinesupplies.com/shop/optics/scopes/athlon-argos-btr-g2-8-34x56-30mm-ffp-aplr2-ir-moa ) ........
Are you going by the picture on an advertisement or are you actually seeing a reduction of the reticle picture in your scope?
In real world, the entire reticle is in view at any power in both ffp and sfp scopes
 
BH - That is NOT an advertisement, it's Athlon depiction of the reticle at 34X. Maybe you don't have a scope of that mag? Or maybe my scope is Faulty ? That is exactly what I SEE and it is WHY I needed to 'dial down' to 20X to see the 20+ MOA Low-Hold.
Maybe I need to move to "Your Real World" ?
 
Last edited:
yeah, I see that now
so used to the Talos scopes for 2 years with a full reticle at 14X, but just looking at a new Midas Tac 6-24 and se the same issue, reticle starts disappearing at ~19X

my real world is evolving :)
 
Back
Top Bottom