Seriously, do people just empty the bottle when treating there guns? Let their firearms swim in the stuff, never clean any of it off even before shooting, and then wonder wtf is wrong with everything else but his own mind.
Super extensive lube test
- Thread starter bcsteve
- Start date
I don't know why you would do that but if you're wondering wtf Epoxy7 is talking about it could be the RCMP's firearm lubricant tests or maybe the CF lube tests spoken of by guys like C77 who have thoroughly tested a myriad of products in service weapons at temps ranging from brisk to "why the f**k are we still outside? I don't want to die here"
So, there's that.
So, there's that.
My issue with FL is that when you heat treat the parts, some of it is bound to get into areas that is not accessible without a detailed strip. Im not going to sit there and heat it until all the excess leaks out. So instead I switched to FireClean which is odorless, not toxic and does not require a meticulous application procedure.
The stuff makes cleaning easier than with FL too. Give it a try, you won't be dissapointed.
The G96 spray is equivalent. They are both metal conditioners as well. All of the advantages such as just wiping the parts afterwards for fireclean are also the result with G96 spray. The difference is G96 comes in an easy spray can, is easy to get and while the price has climbed it's still not too expensive. Last it's recommended by the RCMP so it can be used on duty firearms. This means I just use the same stuff for my personal firearms as the work ones (Cleaning work firearms at home so my supplies, not using work supplies at home) So no need for other products. I can personally verify that the G96 spray will keep your gun running in sub -50 Celcius.
The 0W40 synthetic diesel oil is also good in cold but if really cold just use the G96. What I like about this combo is that the oil on top of the G96 base keeps all the properties of the G96 ie just wipe the parts clean after so no scrubbing. The 0w40 works in very hot and very cold environments. The diesel version has detergents in it. The carbon seems to get taken care of and if excess it seems to pretty much get forced out. Practically self cleaning. Great for semi auto pistol and AR. Also the G96 when confronted with sand or fine talcum like environments can turn into a sort of fine sanding solution. It's not ideal. I have had to clean my duty pistol after a day of ATV patrols in that stuff. The pistol was full of this fine talcum sand. The diesel oil with the G96 again seems to help trap and push this stuff out of the surfaces. So your slides aren't basically emery papering themselves into early excessive wear.
These have been my experiences in sub -50 to high +30 in fine talcum like sand conditions and pretty much everything inbetween. Within a year a duty firearm can experience almost any of these conditions. They have to work and you need that confidence that no matter what when you need it the firearm will fire and continue to fire without seizing or stoppages. If there is something that can go wrong it usually happens during these times.
Fireclean looks really good. But it's not offering anything the G96 (spray not CLP) doesn't offer. Frankly from reading reviews/use on it you could just change the name to G96 on those writeups as the results seem to be identical.
When I run outta fl I might, I can see fl becoming solid if overused, it is sold in paste form. Gunzilla solidifying, seems so very unlikely to me. I wish I still had some kicking around to try and replicate the claims.
Fireclean beats G96 as a lubricant any day of the week.
Care to elaborate?
That's a pretty vague general statement. Subjective or fact? Everything listed in the reviews I read such as slick and just wipe off the carbon is the same as G96. Any military/police testing? Would love to hear about it.
My first hand experience with Frog Lube is not good.
It dries out after a very short period of time and becomes tacky like a really poor quality glue.
When it is initally applied, it works well; but if you lube, let the firearm sit for a period of time and then fail to re-lube before shooting, your gun will jam, as mine did.
I ended wiping all of it off my equipment and went back to G96.
It dries out after a very short period of time and becomes tacky like a really poor quality glue.
When it is initally applied, it works well; but if you lube, let the firearm sit for a period of time and then fail to re-lube before shooting, your gun will jam, as mine did.
I ended wiping all of it off my equipment and went back to G96.
And I think that's what's missing from the lube test that is the subject of this thread: How the lube stands up over time (as the solvent dries) and especially with exposure to contaminants. I personally want something that cleans up well and does not leave any non-lubricating residue. And, when combined with soot and range grime, does not gum up. All of the lubes are reasonably good at lubricity if you don't let them dry out, but not all perform well over time (longevity) or when they get dirty. And that is really the only thing that matters, in my opinion. (cold/hot weather performance matters, too, of course)
Oh I guarantee that if he had applied Frog Lube to that ramp thing he built and let it sit for a day or two, it would have failed miserably.
I'm not saying Frog Lube is a horrible product, just that it is not nearly as good a few days after you've applied it.
He tests the Frog Lube liquid in the test posted, not the paste. He also applies as directed. He applies liberally and wipes off all excess; to the point of it seeming like he has wiped it all off. It sounds like there was some over-application if it caked up and caused your gun to jam...
I use FL after every shooting session. The gun sits for a week or two, and than functions without failure every session. After a few mags, the gun also gives off a faint minty smell that is pleasant through the smell of burnt gunpowder.
It seems like FL has its place for some people and others not so much...
It very well could be that I applied too much, frankly.
All I know is that the way that I applied it (I did NOT heat the parts and let the FL soak in as per the instructions), it didn't work for me.
Don't feel too bad about that...the whole "soak in to the pores of the metal" is total BS, unless your gun is made of poorly done welds, or, I guess, sintered powder (also done incorrectly).
Any lube that requires extensive time or special tools to apply doesn't work in my book.
The guys supporting frog lube. Your saying I need to heat up my guns critical parts with a hair dryer, apply then wipe carefully off and let it absorb into the metals pores... There is simply no time for that. This reminds me of the militec 1 "metal conditioner" craze of a couple years ago. You applied it similarly to how some guys here are saying you need to apply FL. Then you heated up your guns parts with a plastic wrap heat gun/hair dryer and let the metal "absorb" the oil, then wiped the excess off, then let it cool for 24 hours...
A good lube is a Mil-STD CLP that you spray directly into your ejection port, keep shooting and it does it's job.
The guys supporting frog lube. Your saying I need to heat up my guns critical parts with a hair dryer, apply then wipe carefully off and let it absorb into the metals pores... There is simply no time for that. This reminds me of the militec 1 "metal conditioner" craze of a couple years ago. You applied it similarly to how some guys here are saying you need to apply FL. Then you heated up your guns parts with a plastic wrap heat gun/hair dryer and let the metal "absorb" the oil, then wiped the excess off, then let it cool for 24 hours...
A good lube is a Mil-STD CLP that you spray directly into your ejection port, keep shooting and it does it's job.
Clobbersauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Waaay out west.
X2 on G96 spray. It's the only cleaner and lubricant I use. It's worked well in all my firearms including my AR15. The only carbon that it doesn't do a great job on is the at the rear of the bolt just past the gas rings. I usually have to scrape that part every 500 rounds or so.
It's also kept any corrosion from my firearms. Can't say enough good things.
I've also heard a lot of good things about fire clean, but I see no reason to switch when G96 spray is cheaper and available pretty much everywhere.
I've never used Frog Lube, but I've heard enough bad things from SME's I trust to stay away from it.
I use Frog Lube, Seal 1, G96, Hoppe's, CLP, etc for my guns depending the circumstances. I like FL and take the time to apply it correctly as I enjoy doing that....each to there own. So I now have 3 of my guns converted over to Frog Lube (2 AR's and a 45ACP 1911).
Other guns I just spray down and shoot...usually in the summer when I don't want to take the time. Plus I love the smell of G96 : )
Now I just target shoot usually or shoot gophers at the most....nothing that shoots back anyway. My life doesn't rely on my gun lube.
Having said that I work with a guy who was in the British Marines for 8 yrs or so. He was in Iraq and Afghanistan twice. He said they used to go buy Frog Lube at the US base store as they found it worked well in the desert. There guns performed reliably and attracted no dust/sand. It also made cleaning them much easier which was a big plus for them as they have to turn them in regularly to the armorer and they need to be spotless. So Frog Lube cut down on the amount of time it took to get there guns spotless before turning them in.
Their life does rely on their firearms reliability and cleanliness. So to me that says alot for Frog Lube.
Also they paid for the Frog Lube out of their own pockets as well, and didn't use the free CLP provided by the Brits......I found this very interesting. Take it for what it's worth to you and your applications.
Personally I like the non toxicity of it, great smell, and the idea that it is also protecting my firearms.
Other guns I just spray down and shoot...usually in the summer when I don't want to take the time. Plus I love the smell of G96 : )
Now I just target shoot usually or shoot gophers at the most....nothing that shoots back anyway. My life doesn't rely on my gun lube.
Having said that I work with a guy who was in the British Marines for 8 yrs or so. He was in Iraq and Afghanistan twice. He said they used to go buy Frog Lube at the US base store as they found it worked well in the desert. There guns performed reliably and attracted no dust/sand. It also made cleaning them much easier which was a big plus for them as they have to turn them in regularly to the armorer and they need to be spotless. So Frog Lube cut down on the amount of time it took to get there guns spotless before turning them in.
Their life does rely on their firearms reliability and cleanliness. So to me that says alot for Frog Lube.
Also they paid for the Frog Lube out of their own pockets as well, and didn't use the free CLP provided by the Brits......I found this very interesting. Take it for what it's worth to you and your applications.
Personally I like the non toxicity of it, great smell, and the idea that it is also protecting my firearms.
You know what's funny, I left my jr carbine for a couple/few months with excess liquid FL in it, and my range trip this after, the excess FL turned to gum. As someone mentioned, like a ####ty type of glue. That's not cool. Safe queen = demanding for FL.
The linemen's pliers I heated and soaked in froglube(wiped off the excess) a couple months ago are now all surface rusty looking.
