Swedish Mauser stock disk info
- Thread starter alexm14
- Start date
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PICTURES, PICTURES, PICTURES.
While words can describe something, there is no substitute for a Picture.
In making a guess based on your information, the "AP Boras 1917" on the stock is either a Name of a Civilian Shooter who owned the rifle, or this was a "Prize Rifle" given out as a shooting prize. The latter is quite probably as there is a Date on it.
Is it a disk or a plaque? Military disks contain bore information and are not dated.
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PICTURES, PICTURES, PICTURES.
While words can describe something, there is no substitute for a Picture.
In making a guess based on your information, the "AP Boras 1917" on the stock is either a Name of a Civilian Shooter who owned the rifle, or this was a "Prize Rifle" given out as a shooting prize. The latter is quite probably as there is a Date on it.
Is it a disk or a plaque? Military disks contain bore information and are not dated.
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I've been told that those plaques with names were given to the shooter and he/she put them on the rifle themselves as bragging rights and to prove they had won certain matches and when.
Don't pay ANY attention to the stock disk. AT ALL. The bores of the rifles were measured and graded, and the info was stamped on the disk. That disk may have been correct at some point 80 years ago, but I wouldn't bank on it. My m96 didn't have a disk, but it had the inlet, and 4 tiny nail holes for the trajectory chart. I got a random disk, says grade 3 bore, which my rifle is definitely not, but it's just there for decoration.
EDIT: Just looked more closely at your pic and it seems to be not that type of disk
EDIT: Just looked more closely at your pic and it seems to be not that type of disk
This rifle was a Civilian purchase rifle. "A P Boras 1917" would be the name of the person who bought it probably on that date. The little marks stamped on the bottom are called "Hallmarks" and are used to certify the purity of the Silver nameplate disk. There should be a combination "letter-number" as the last stamp on the right. For Example, something like "R8 or B5" etc. You will probably need a good magnifying glass to see it, but if you post that number, it is possible to tell when that disk was actually made by the Jeweller.
BEARHUNTER posts "I've been told that those plaques with names were given to the shooter and he/she put them on the rifle themselves as bragging rights and to prove they had won certain matches and when. "
With personal firearms, some shooters had disks or plaques made up with their name on them for Identification purposes. Prize rifles, on the other hand, were usually made up with a plaque showing the Award, the Match or the Organization giving the Prize. The space for the name was left blank, and then engraved with the Winner's Name after.
This rifle was a Prize Rifle to raise funds for 55 km. of Concrete Bunkers and Trenches for fortications north and south of Stockholm. All paid for by Civilian Monies and supervised by Army Engineers. By the look of the second plaque, the original winner donated it to raise further funds in 1930.
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This rifle was a prize rifle for a Hemvarnet Shoot. (The Hemvarnet is the Home Guard in Sweden, but not "toothless" at all.) The Primary duty of the Hemvarnet at the time was "TO PROTECT THE ARMY WHILE IT MOBILIZES," then protect buildings and installations.
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And to make it interesting, you might "Google" the name, "Erik Lundgren -Ockelbo". This is a personal nameplate.
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Another prize rifle. This one was given out by the FSR (Skytte OS) for the best "Recruit" at the annual Shoot.
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BEARHUNTER posts "I've been told that those plaques with names were given to the shooter and he/she put them on the rifle themselves as bragging rights and to prove they had won certain matches and when. "
With personal firearms, some shooters had disks or plaques made up with their name on them for Identification purposes. Prize rifles, on the other hand, were usually made up with a plaque showing the Award, the Match or the Organization giving the Prize. The space for the name was left blank, and then engraved with the Winner's Name after.
This rifle was a Prize Rifle to raise funds for 55 km. of Concrete Bunkers and Trenches for fortications north and south of Stockholm. All paid for by Civilian Monies and supervised by Army Engineers. By the look of the second plaque, the original winner donated it to raise further funds in 1930.
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This rifle was a prize rifle for a Hemvarnet Shoot. (The Hemvarnet is the Home Guard in Sweden, but not "toothless" at all.) The Primary duty of the Hemvarnet at the time was "TO PROTECT THE ARMY WHILE IT MOBILIZES," then protect buildings and installations.
.
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And to make it interesting, you might "Google" the name, "Erik Lundgren -Ockelbo". This is a personal nameplate.
.
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Another prize rifle. This one was given out by the FSR (Skytte OS) for the best "Recruit" at the annual Shoot.
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Its written D8 on the plaque in really small character, thanks for the info!!!
D8 is the year code for 1930. Your Silver Plaque was made in that year.
By the way, post some good pictures of the rifle and particularly the stock. From your small picture, it almost looks like your rifle has an ELM stock on it. The 1916 year is correct for an ELM stocked rifle, and the serial numbers should be between 371495 and 401598. While not all the 1916 production had ELM stocks, other woods such as Walnut, Mahogany and Beech were also used, because the supply of Walnut was drying up due to Wartime production and shipping difficulties. After 1918, most Swedish rifles had Beech stocks. The ELM stocked rifles are very desireable as not a whole lot of them were made compared to overall production of the M/96 rifles.
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As far as I recollect, there are about SIX known mahogany stocks. If you have one, there is a line stretching from here back over to Sweden with people with HUGE piles of money who want to take it off you.
BTW, your pictures seem to have been taken in a sauna! Can you please take more of the area underneath the wrist [the thin part where you hold it] of the stock. I would liketo see the crown marks that might be there. Having said that, I think that the stock might have been refinished at some time. The woodwork is supposed to be-
1. Higher than the metal work - everywhere - to allow for refinishing.
2. The finish is meant to be rough, even to having snadpaper marks, to make the gun easy to grip in cold weather.
tac
CG - 1898 - #896
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It certainly looks like an Elm Stock on your rifle. I do agree with TACFOLEY in that it has been sanded, but really not that bad. The wood seems more or less level with the metal, and I have seen a lot of them that was well under the metal. Also, some rifles were sanded at the Repair station or Arsenal too.
Swedish rifles were inspected at regular intervals, and when this was done, or when the rifle went for a major repair or replacement, including the barrels, the arsenal or repair station, (Tygstation') that did the work stamped their code on the bottom at the wrist.
Some hints on Photography. Try to photograph firearms on a cloudy day, outside. This diffuses the light evenly. Pictures taken indoors are subject to colour changes because of the flourescent or tungsten light bulbs. If possible, use a tripod, and select the timer option to take the picture. Focus everything well. Most digital cameras now have several settings, including close up ones..
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It certainly looks like an Elm Stock on your rifle. I do agree with TACFOLEY in that it has been sanded, but really not that bad. The wood seems more or less level with the metal, and I have seen a lot of them that was well under the metal. Also, some rifles were sanded at the Repair station or Arsenal too.
Swedish rifles were inspected at regular intervals, and when this was done, or when the rifle went for a major repair or replacement, including the barrels, the arsenal or repair station, (Tygstation') that did the work stamped their code on the bottom at the wrist.
Some hints on Photography. Try to photograph firearms on a cloudy day, outside. This diffuses the light evenly. Pictures taken indoors are subject to colour changes because of the flourescent or tungsten light bulbs. If possible, use a tripod, and select the timer option to take the picture. Focus everything well. Most digital cameras now have several settings, including close up ones..
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