I have been using Mobile 1 Synthetic for case lube on my .50 BMG and .30-378 for a few years. For other firearms grease type applications to critical operating parts I have been using Ski-Doo type grease which is good to around -50 degrees compared to white lithium. In Alberta it is not uncommon to be hunting in the minus twenties with wind during the rut period.
Synthetic Motor Oil as a Gun Oil
- Thread starter gunnarheim
- Start date
PitBull1973
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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- Right Behind You
Ed’s red. Look it up that’s all I use
BUSINESS OP! Put diesel oil in 4 oz. bottle, add dye and additional fragrance to mask original, create fancy label with catchy name and sell for $16.95. Bingo! Years ago there was a carbon-cutting bore cleaner sold for about that price which, according to some sources, was the same as GM Top Engine Cleaner (?) which you could buy a 16 oz. can of for $12.00. And that, no doubt, was just repackaged from some bog-standard industrial cleaner put up in 5- and 45- gallon containers.
This ^^^
And in Europe, a version (presumably put up in sterile packaging) can be used medically as well. What's not to like? I use it to clean my pistols and revolvers, but not as a lube. Usually a drop of ATF works for that.The best thing about diesel oil is that it's cheap, at least compared to Snake Oil. You can afford to fill a 45 gallon drum with it and soak parts or even compete guns for as long as it takes to soften rust and petrified grease. It may not be the best stuff made, but long-term immersion makes up for a lot, compared to dabbing on the expensive stuff and watching it run off. (Especially if the expensive stuff turns out to have been just diesel oil after all.) Better yet, you can buy diesel that already has red dye in it, and it's even a little cheaper.
What he said. Using any old oil is fine for southerners. When it’s REALLY cold no oil at all is the way to go. I know the trolls are going to freak because this goes against their expertise, but for people that do things rather then write things this is how you do it. When it’s warm you use lube but when it’s cold the less then twenty times that you cycle your bolt won’t wear your gun out. If it does you buy another gun. It’s a tool like a hammer.
Experts flame away.
By good fortune I have come to have some of the Lubriplate FMO-350-AW oil mentioned earlier in this thread. For me it is a lifetime supply. If anyone wants to try it let me know. I have placed an add in EE "other stuff".
....safe shooting
....safe shooting
Agreed and that is why I prefer Mauser bolt actions for very cold conditions not only for the CRF but also for their bolts that can be disassembled completely for degreasing without tools. Take the bolt out, break it down, toss the parts in a pan of gasoline, brush them with a toothbrush and then re-assemble.
I use Royal Purple for my Kennebec les pommes de terre frites...
What ring gap you running on the oil rings ???
G-96 is all one really needs, but opinions differ from day to day and region to region.
Rob
Personally, I use anything but ATF, since it has limited lubricity so the clutches don't slip and burn in the transmission. DEXTRON 6 is a bit more slippery though and I run it in my GM transfer case. Maybe an oil expert can enlighten me.
That part at the end.
Nothing special about so called Gun oil or Sewing Machine oil. Just light weight oils packaged for sale to particular consumers.
The proprietary blends amount to snake oil salesmen selling you THEIR version of what THEY think is a better mixture to use. Most of it isn't worse, but all of it costs more.
- Location
- Alberta, North America
why?? G96 since 1980 or earlier, it's even my engine oil
I've been using used motor oil as a chain lube in chainsaws for fifty years. Still works fine; just as it always has. My father-in-law, and his in laws, who, amongst them, cut literally thoudands of truckloads of logs, also lubed with used motor oil. For guns, I use Dexron ATF a lot because that is what I used as a protectant after bluing and I always have a lot on hand. Inside the bore, I still used Hoppes#9 as I always have.
Two types of oils have to be warned against for use on gubs. One is WD40. It's a crappy lube, a crappy protectant, and will gum up any mechanism. The second is any vegatable oil. Olive oil, especially will glue any moving parts in place and is damn difficult to remove.
"I've been using used motor oil as a chain lube in chainsaws for fifty years. Still works fine; just as it always has. My father-in-law, and his in laws, who, amongst them, cut literally thousands of truckloads of logs, also lubed with used motor oil."
My father showed me this when I was a kid and I have been doing the same for Many years. We have always heated our homes with wood. I have replaced one bar in my life and a few chains. (Mostly because I am not the greatest at sharpening)
My father showed me this when I was a kid and I have been doing the same for Many years. We have always heated our homes with wood. I have replaced one bar in my life and a few chains. (Mostly because I am not the greatest at sharpening)
