T C Encore

A good read for all interested in T/C Encore/Prohunter's.

http://www.bellmtcs.com/store/index.php?cid=580

T/C Pro Hunter test:

A couple weeks ago, I performed a single test on 5 different T/C Pro Hunter rifles that literally cut their group size in half. Before I tell you what I did though, here is a list of the guns/calibers/loads used in this seemingly simple test...

All guns had the 28" fluted T/C Pro Hunter barrel...

All guns had Mike Bellms oversize hinge pin, heavy duty locking bolt spring and 51 lb. hammer spring...

All guns had trigger jobs with the triggers being set from 2 1/2 to 3 lbs...

All guns were shooting factory ammo...

All guns were checked before testing to make sure the mounts were tight...

Here is a list of each caliber used in the test, along with the ammo and group size before/after. I will also point out that there were 2 3-shot groups fired from the bench at 100 yards before the test and 2 3-shot groups fired after the test with the average group size listed for a ruler reading of group size measured center to center...

1) 22-250 / 55 gr. Federal Premium / before - 1 3/4" / after - 3/4"...

2) 25/06 / 117 gr. Hornady Spire Point / before - 2" / after - 1"...

3) 7mm Rem. Mag. / 140 gr. Nosler Partition / before - 2 1/2" / after - 7/8"...

4) 308 / 150 gr. Remington Core-Lokt / before - 1 1/2" / after - 3/4"...

5) 300 Win. Mag. / 180 gr. Ballistic Silver Tip / before - 2" / after - 1"...

Okay, what was the ONLY thing done to these guns to cut their group size in half? I cut 5" off the barrel and recrowned the muzzle! Well, that may actually be two things but, it stands to reason that if you cut a barrel back, it automatically gets recrowned...

So why did these guns start shooting more like what they were suppose to with a 23" barrel instead of a 28" barrel? Excessive "whip" and "vibration" as well as a total change in "harmonics"...

Here is a simple test that you can do and one that I have shown many customers. Remove your barrel from the frame and put the barrel lug in a vice and lock it down good and tight. Put a lead pencil in the muzzle end of the barrel. The wood is soft and will NOT damage the rifling or crown. Make sure the fit is good and tight. Now take a piece of paper and anchor it in front of the barrel and to where it comes in contact with the pencil. Now, with just your thumb and index finger, see just how much you can "flex" the barrel. You can very easily move the barrel 1/2" in all directions and depending on the pressure applied, it is easy to make a circle over 1" in diameter just from the barrel having so much give to it...

I have put these barrels in a lathe and run the lathe at 1,000 rpm and have shown customers how easy these barrels flex or bend with just finger tip pressure. What do you think these same overly long barrels do when a round is fired down the bore? They flex pretty much the same way but, too fast for the eye to see it. A shorter barrel though, will still flex but, to a lesser degree...

These Encore barrels also have what is referred to as a "step taper" and this too is a big cause of barrel flex. This is why that, when I build a barrel by barrel stubbing, I only use barrels that have a "straight taper" as this is what can be referred to as a self supporting structure. It does NOT whip around or flex like what the step tapered barrels do and with the vibrations lessened and harmonics dampened, accuracy potential of the barrel goes way up...

Will cutting 5" off of every barrel automatically make your barrel a better shooter? I cannot say 100% that it will but, I have yet to see one that it did not help at least to a certain degree and some more than others...

Let me also point out that something else that was noticed was "loose" spots in the bore. With all 5 of the rifles tested, when running a jag with a tight fitting patch down the bore, there was at least one if not two loose spots in the bore, with the first one usually at the 23 to 24" mark and then the second one at around 27". I cannot say for sure but, I believe this is why these barrels shot much better because of the elimination of these loose spots. This is something that you cannot "fix" in these long barrels and the only way to deal with it is to live with it being like it is or cut it off, recrown and go from there...

Velocity loss when going from a 28" barrel down to 23"? I only had time to shoot the 25-06 and 308 over the chronograph and total velocity loss for both was less than 60 fps.. I was expecting more but, and this is only my opinion, I feel the oversize bore closer to the muzzle end of the barrel was the culprit. If the bore was uniform from end to end or the muzzle end of the bore had a slight constriction to it, I would have expected a greater velocity loss. The 25-06 really surprised me as this cartridge performs admirably in a long barrel and shows it's true velocity potential. Not so in the last couple of Encore barrels I tested...

It's things like this that show the p-poor quality and design standards of T/C. It's no wonder Mike Bellm and I have so much gray hair....

DAVID WHITE
 
Interesting Riflesmith I think that idea probably would work now that you mention it.

I have been developing a serious small caliber/varmint rifle/ minor wildcat obsession over the last couple years. One tuned action with multiple barrels might be just the ticket I'm looking for :)
 
The 28"'long barrels of the Prohunter were never required in the first place. Just Silly to put such a long tube on a single shot that is not fundementally designed as a target rifle! 24-26" would
Make a Big difference in handleing characteristics as well.

The concept of Longer barrels Having more dramatic deflection isnt new.
Longer barrels Are just as Capable of Accuracy. The deflection is more noticable when the barrel is longer, and measured the way
David White explained it.

If the barrel was cut off to 20", and you had a longer pencil to reach that piece of paper he described, we would likely see just as big of a flex pattern.

I tend to think that the loose spots he describes are night and day the biggest problem. This kind of varience can cause severe flucutations in standard deviations, powder burning characteristics, etc. This would make it very hard to tune an accurate load! By trimming off 5" of barrel you tend to reduce the chance of the bullet encountering a "potential" loose spot. Therefore Shortening the barrel from that standpoint would be my first step as well.
The center hindge pin fit is also very important! If its loose even by a couple of thousandths of a inch, that translates in a terrible side to side sloppy movement at the barrel muzzle! Not to mention a terrible feel to the rifle as a hunter carries it! Been there/experienced that.

The hinged single Shot action presents many challenges to achieve a high degree Of precsion! There are many more things that can be done to improve the accuracy! The problem is that T/C made this a convienient style of switch barrel rifle. This presents a massive challenge for them to be able to produce an accurate product that can fit on "your", "my", or anyones action and still shoot accurately. With that said, I still love them.
 
I am averaging 1" 100 yards 3 shot groups with both my 22" 30-06 and 375H&H barrels I do not expect or require better than that kind of accuracy for this rifle so haven't taken the time to work up better loads.

Now my T/C Contenders are a bit different these are the parent design to the Encore/Prohunters I have had time to work up loads/glass bed the fore ends for most of them my two most accurate combinations are my 21" 223 and 21" 375JDJ they average 1 1/4" - 1 3/4" 300 yard 3 shot groups.

These rifles have potential to be more accurate than most people can shoot them if you take a bit of time and work with them = they are definitely not target grade combo's though.
 
Out of the box, I've got 1"-2" groups at 100. Simply can't beat any of my Savage bolt action rifles for pure accuracy, but it just feels so good to shoulder.
 
Pro Hunter frame, T/C 7RM barrel, walnut off of EBAY 10 years ago, with a slimmed up and re-contoured fore-arm by me.
I had the stocks for 5 or 6 years before I found a rifle frame for a price I was willing to pay..
I'd love to get my hands on the case-coloured frame the custom shop used to do.

DSC04888.jpg


DSC04889.jpg


The forearm before weigh####chers.

DSC04870.jpg


And in bush configuration.

DSC04868.jpg


I'm not impressed with the fiddly nature of using a belted mag cartridge with the T/C extractor, so any additional barrels I get will have rimmed cartridges.
Looking to build some custom barrels, using the barrel stubbing method.
 
I'd love to get my hands on the case-coloured frame the custom shop used to do.



EABCO (E.Arthur Brown Company) had some a few months back. they were all the left overs after the big move...... check them out, they may still have some and you could get someone to import it for you.
just a suggestion.
 
EABCO (E.Arthur Brown Company) had some a few months back. they were all the left overs after the big move...... check them out, they may still have some and you could get someone to import it for you.
just a suggestion.

Ive been trying to get an ENCORE barrel from them...they dont seem to want to talk to a Canadian even though Id be using an importer.
 
Pro Hunter frame, T/C 7RM barrel, walnut off of EBAY 10 years ago, with a slimmed up and re-contoured fore-arm by me.
I had the stocks for 5 or 6 years before I found a rifle frame for a price I was willing to pay..
I'd love to get my hands on the case-coloured frame the custom shop used to do.

DSC04888.jpg


DSC04889.jpg


The forearm before weigh####chers.

DSC04870.jpg


And in bush configuration.

DSC04868.jpg


I'm not impressed with the fiddly nature of using a belted mag cartridge with the T/C extractor, so any additional barrels I get will have rimmed cartridges.
Looking to build some custom barrels, using the barrel stubbing method.

I am doing a 6.5mm-08 AI stub on an H&R SB2 Ultra frame... the smith I approached had not done a stub before, but was intrigued by the process, so he is buying a frame and doing a "guinea pig" custom stub... I will recommend once I test the final product.
 
I have all the required "technology" to do the stubs myself, but I have other projects to deal with before I start playing with that one. Currently, I'm thinking of doing a 6.5mm Rimmed Gibbs, and a rimmed wildcat based on a shortened 338 WinMag.

There is company down south that makes stubs for T/C's from scratch - "5mmcraig.com" will get you there.
If they can be landed here for less than a "significant" premium, that will be the way to go, rather than jigging up to build a couple stubs.
They show Prophet River as being their Canadian distributor, and "RT" is looking into that.
 
I have all the required "technology" to do the stubs myself, but I have other projects to deal with before I start playing with that one. Currently, I'm thinking of doing a 6.5mm Rimmed Gibbs, and a rimmed wildcat based on a shortened 338 WinMag.

There is company down south that makes stubs for T/C's from scratch - "5mmcraig.com" will get you there.
If they can be landed here for less than a "significant" premium, that will be the way to go, rather than jigging up to build a couple stubs.
They show Prophet River as being their Canadian distributor, and "RT" is looking into that.

I better pay great heed to your words, friend... you've been around since 2004 and only have 10 posts... these words are pure gold! :D

By "down South" do you mean state side??? Would that stubbing company be D&T? I am on David's blog and have had conversations with him, but won't be using his service... too much paperwork. I'll await the results from my guy and see how that goes...
 
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