Tandemkross compensator, wont thread all the way on?

[OneInTheChamber]

There's nothing past the threads to tap.. the comp widens out.

 

[terBC]

Would using a jam nut take up the space between the shoulder of muzzle and the compensator?

 

[Leuchtkafer]

Have you actually run the tap into it yet?

 

[guntech]

Take the barreled action and the brake to a gunsmith. He can fix that in about 20 minutes.

 

[brownbear53]

Except you are forgetting OAL. A muzzle device with 0.5" of thread isn't going to screw all the way onto a barrel with 0.62" of thread

Partly correct, but you didn't comprehend my post.
Look at OP's original image (post #4)

The muzzle device is bottoming out at the end of the thread because they are not cut through.
I'm suggesting OP cut the threads through (past the hypothetical 0.5" mark) till the entire meat is threaded as far as he can (and into the open space of the brake). This allows him to use the Brakes OAL (2.5") to thread it on the 0.62" barrel thread. This procedures is also down for majority of brakes found I, as it allows the user to set the brake as they like with either a crush washer, spacers, or with a jam nuts (that look terrible on a smooth barrel and brake combo)

The only drawback of this is the barrel being visible inside the brake as it protrudes a few millimeters, which is aesthetic and wont affect function, the barrel crown is useless once you put a brake on, the gas redirection is now the final point of contact for the bullet and will shift poi. Almost all rifles need to be zeroed again after a brake install

 

[brownbear53]

There's nothing there to thread,lads! I've got the tap. It's makes no difference.. there's a shoulder there that the threads sit on.

Yeah
Like some of us have suggested, TAP THAT SHOULDER till it goes through.

 

[Butcherbill]

There's nothing past the threads to tap.. the comp widens out.

Gotcha, that makes things a bit clearer. I’d look at a thicker washer to take up the gap then.

 

[dan belisle]

There's nothing there to thread,lads! I've got the tap. It's makes no difference.. there's a shoulder there that the threads sit on.

Then fit a spacer. - dan

 

[hbean]

You guys are over complicating the problem, just use a jam nut to lock the muzzle brake instead of a crush washer

 

[FatCatsDad]

It's a simple problem to overcome.

This is a frustrating thread to read

 

[FatCatsDad]

There's nothing past the threads to tap.. the comp widens out.

It would thread on all the way if that were true

 

[FatCatsDad]

Then you make a collar to take up the extra threaded portion of the barrel, or cut it back. - dan

We don't know the barrel length.
Cutting it could be a no no.

 

[Beeron]

I have owned several “brakes” from TK.
I still own 3.
The aluminum “gamechanger” is not worth putting time into. Ive owned and sold a few.
They are pretty but entirely cosmetic.
Spend 10% more for the GameChanger Pro or 15% for the Pro II and u get stainless steel and legit function to boot.
Running them in a pistol results in appreciably reduced “muzzle flip”.
Believe it or not, they also reduce “flip” on my Grey Birch RDR.

OP. I suggest u consider an upgrade in th TK lineup. The Dlask linear comp is also a worthy consideration and i run one on my CZ457. They do work as advertised.