I used to use an impact driver a lot when I had Japanese motorcycles. The combination of philips head screws and aluminum made it a necessity. The combination of the simultaneous impact and twist keeps the screwdriver head from backing out of the screw. I used to work in a shop that had a special screwdriver designed to be used in an arbour press, and it worked wonders on small stuck screws. Never had a screw head sheer off using it.
That stubborn screw
- Thread starter Nabs
- Start date
Yeah I remember that Gewehr 98, Desert fox 
. You've sold me, I'm going to get an impact driver from Crappy tire.
Wish me luck with that screw.
I'll post back with the results as well as a picture of this screw once it comes out.
Many many thanks for the opinions and thoughts everyone, I hope this thread helped more than just me.
. You've sold me, I'm going to get an impact driver from Crappy tire.Wish me luck with that screw
. I'll post back with the results as well as a picture of this screw once it comes out.
Many many thanks for the opinions and thoughts everyone, I hope this thread helped more than just me.
- Location
- Leduc County, Alberta
Yeah I remember that Gewehr 98, Desert fox
Wish me luck with that screw
I'll post back with the results as well as a picture of this screw once it comes out.
Many many thanks for the opinions and thoughts everyone, I hope this thread helped more than just me.
If I had to buy one all over again, I would just spend the money on a good DeWalt or Makita Impact driver... They go on sale at Cambodian Tire from time to time.
Then again, I need mine for farm work and construction quite a bit too... If you are just the occasional gunsmith or picture hanging guy, then you might just need a cheaper one...
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I'll have to give a vote to Ridgid. Just as tough (in my experience) as the dewalt, plus it comes with a lifetime guarentee (if you register it) on everything including batteries. Whereas the dewalt and makita only have a 3 year. With my ridgid stuff I've already replaced a battery that stopped charging. Just took it into a warrenty center, and walked out with the new battery.
Yep...try it, if this can't break it loose then you will have to get mechanical on its azz.
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IMHO, impact drivers have no place on a gun. Others feel differently, I know. I prefer to grind my own bits for a hex-driver and wrap a piece of sheet rubber around the handle for leverage. This typically works. Sometimes a good rap on the end of the driver handle helps seat the bit and break any rust bonding along the screw shaft.
Good luck.
Good luck.
You better stop flying then
I watched a guy take a windscreen out of a Dash the other day with one. Every screw was solid. Mac impact driver fixed that right quick!Well I just got back from buying the mastercraft impact driver set. I practiced on some other screws first and confirmed it was set to the right motion. I then tried the rifle screw and after about 20 solid wacks, it has not moved and is still tight as heck. The driver ended up stripping most of the screw head. What a shame, money down the drain, a stripped screw head and still no disassembled rifle.
After the first wack, I practiced a few times on the front trigger guard screw and it worked perfectly so this rear screw I just don't get it.
I might just have to admit defeat on this one and not be able to get the action out of the stock.
After the first wack, I practiced a few times on the front trigger guard screw and it worked perfectly so this rear screw I just don't get it.
I might just have to admit defeat on this one and not be able to get the action out of the stock.
On close up examination, it looks like the impact driver was moving in the right direction with the way the head is stripped.
I gave the old faithful hammer and regular screw driver trick again along with some good old elbow grease and that screw hasn't moved at all.
I think this screw should be under study.
As for now, i gave up on getting it out. I'm not happy it got stripped as I was trying to avoid doing that but can't go back now so I will just have to clean the rifle as she is.
I gave the old faithful hammer and regular screw driver trick again along with some good old elbow grease and that screw hasn't moved at all.
I think this screw should be under study
.As for now, i gave up on getting it out. I'm not happy it got stripped as I was trying to avoid doing that but can't go back now so I will just have to clean the rifle as she is.
On close up examination, it looks like the impact driver was moving in the right direction with the way the head is stripped.
I gave the old faithful hammer and regular screw driver trick again along with some good old elbow grease and that screw hasn't moved at all.
I think this screw should be under study
As for now, i gave up on getting it out. I'm not happy it got stripped as I was trying to avoid doing that but can't go back now so I will just have to clean the rifle as she is.
You may have stumbled upon an even greater problem. My guess is that screw is rusted/deterioarated in. I would definitely have to get it out for a below the wood inspection. An "easy out" or simply drilling the head off followed by a tool like a vice grips may be in order. That may sound like bubba, but if you bring it to a gunsmith that is what he will likely do.
Thanks for the thought, I tried scheduling an inspection with the gun smith but I can't seem to find the time of day. Wish there was more than one gun smith in town. If it was a mis-matched screw, I wouldn't mind getting it out, I guess I'm just mad at mself as it is the matching screw.
I'll see what the smith has to say.
I'll see what the smith has to say.
Sorry to hear it stripped the slot. That's very unexpected for the impact driver you strike with a hammer. Was the rifle up against something solid so that the impact is crisp and the rifle wouldn't move? I use a rubber mallet and pretorque the driver in the loosening direction with some pressure from the hand that holds it, and I've removed nasty old door hinges from a rusty 50 year old car.
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There was some confusion in this thread.. impact drivers are the tool I pictured earlier. Hit with a hammer and turn the screw. Electric impact guns are something else entirely. I personally use an ingersol rand 1100ft/lb 1/2" impact for most tasks. I hate batteries with a passion.
ANYWAY.. It is unfortunate the impact driver didn't work. You asked about a preferred brand, well, snap-on is the best but the price reflects that. If you're not using it professionally there's no reason to go over $100. The cheaper tools do have a habit of breaking things.. as you found out.
Next step will likely be removing the head of the screw and turning it out, or using a left-hand drill bit to remove the core of the screw. Then a screw extractor to turn out the remains. I've had good luck on larger bolts with that method, say in the M10 or 3/8 range. Sometimes the threads aren't even nicked.
Absolute worst case, drill out the hole oversize and install a heli-coil.
I think a gunsmith will be your best bet. Sorry to hear about your troubles. No matter what, it is repairable.
ANYWAY.. It is unfortunate the impact driver didn't work. You asked about a preferred brand, well, snap-on is the best but the price reflects that. If you're not using it professionally there's no reason to go over $100. The cheaper tools do have a habit of breaking things.. as you found out.
Next step will likely be removing the head of the screw and turning it out, or using a left-hand drill bit to remove the core of the screw. Then a screw extractor to turn out the remains. I've had good luck on larger bolts with that method, say in the M10 or 3/8 range. Sometimes the threads aren't even nicked.
Absolute worst case, drill out the hole oversize and install a heli-coil.
I think a gunsmith will be your best bet. Sorry to hear about your troubles. No matter what, it is repairable.
Oh well, stuff happens eh ? 100 year old screw that hasn't been removed since WW1. In retrospect, it could have been much worse. I could have run into many problems taking the rifle apart (i.e. the Lange sight, upper and lower bands, bolt disassembly). I find the cocking piece on the bolts to be the worst as they get stuck 3/4 the way when you turn them and then you can't turn it back because of gunk. Now you have a cocking piece that is held on by gunk under spring tension. I once had one fly off during a first time disassembly but luckily it struck a towel in the laundry room and didn't go any further.
I smoothed out the burred edges of the screw and it looks presentable now. The serial number is still on there too so that is a plus, I thought it was lost.
Clean up work is proceeding. I spent a few minutes cleaning the butt plate, that had a thick layer of rust on it, and I can read the serial number again. I am probably the first person to see it in quite some time. I am looking forward to getting her back together again for a range date.
As for the impact driver, I will likely not be using it for rifle screw removal anymore but I think it will be a big help come license plate renewal time for my car.
I smoothed out the burred edges of the screw and it looks presentable now. The serial number is still on there too so that is a plus, I thought it was lost.
Clean up work is proceeding. I spent a few minutes cleaning the butt plate, that had a thick layer of rust on it, and I can read the serial number again. I am probably the first person to see it in quite some time. I am looking forward to getting her back together again for a range date.
As for the impact driver, I will likely not be using it for rifle screw removal anymore but I think it will be a big help come license plate renewal time for my car
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Sorry Nabs. That is very unusual. I cannot remember ever being defeated by a stuck screw with my $6.95 flea market impact driver I bought 30 years ago. Still have the same one. Awesome tool.
Next step- Get a centre punch, punch the screw centre, drill down carefully through it with successively larger bits till the head comes off.
Remove the wood, then tighten the stub in a bench vise, and turn the bolt out with the rifle.
And get another Mauser screw. Matching numbers = sad.
Sorry to hear that Nabs, that really sucks. I marred up my share of screws with a screwdriver, but the impact driver never damaged a single screw. What were the numbers on that screw? If I stumble across one I will let you know.
This may be a really stupid question at this point, but was the capture screw fully removed? Or was is just turned to allow clearance?
This may be a really stupid question at this point, but was the capture screw fully removed? Or was is just turned to allow clearance?
Capture screws were already missing on this lady.
Funny thing is I have another Gewehr 98, same maker and same year, that also has really tight screws. The end number is "65" and it is the early pattern screw if you happen to find one. If you do, I'll more than cover than cost of it.
Funny thing is I have another Gewehr 98, same maker and same year, that also has really tight screws. The end number is "65" and it is the early pattern screw if you happen to find one. If you do, I'll more than cover than cost of it.
