The Cooey Make-Over Thread

drslav said:
some of you guys have re-done the blue on these old guns. I seen some really shiny finishes. Is it hot blue or cold blue and what is the trick to make it shine like this? I have an old canuck JR i am working on for my 4yo niece but i want it to look really nice..
please advise..
Click to expand...

I have reblued a few guns with cold blue and you can get a very nice, shiny finish if you take your time. A very good preparation is the key. However, cold blue is not a long lasting finish and really should be used for touch ups. It would be better to have it hot tanked for lasting results.
However, there is another method that can be done at home and some say it is more dureable than the hot tank method. That is slow rust bluing, the way it was done in the old days. This is the method I am switching to.
 
thank you for your response i agree with you. having said that I have had few guns done with cold blue. They lasted up to 10 years depending on use. Hot tank is beautiful way to finish but not viable on old cheap $50-$100 guns. How does the old method work? I may have an idea...just came up with it a while ago. Well suppose i will look it up.
I did get nice finish on the last one i did. Just took a lot more polishing...
 
A couple more cooeys looking nice.
First one was just bit neglected and rusty.Mechanically excellent. I Picked it up from acquaintance alongside some other "junk" as he called it. It really had potential. Bore is good and was only buttplate that needed to be changed. So in few days of work here it is...

Second was a find at a local gun store. Cheap...i think but needed take down part, rear sight which i still need. I bought it to restore for my 4yo niece who happens to like guns. First thing i did was taking it apart. I needed to invent a take down that was easy to use and somewhat original. I removed the weird screw and washer and then the part below that is in the receiver. I had old threaded rod and trigger guard form model 60. removed the nut from the guard and shortened the rod. Drilled the stock larger and installed the parts. Then rest was simple. I cut the stock. re worked the plate to fit, true oiled it and did cold blue job on the rest. I am happy with the result. What do you think? I imagine i will get another one if it comes around cheap enough...I Like the little gun has original 16" barrel and its so light. With cut stock it has got perfect balance...
here is some pics...
photo12.jpg

photo1-6.jpg

photo22.jpg

photo4-4.jpg

photo31-1.jpg


photo42.jpg
 
canuck jr

hi drslav:i really like the resto you did on that canuck jr.very nice.what cold blueing did you use.i was thinking of doing the same to my jr.
both my sons learned to shoot with this little gun when they were 4-5 yrs old.now they're in their 20's.so i thought i'd get it ready for some grandchildren,someday,maybe.

here's a couple of pics of mine
thanks
z
cooeycanuckjr003.jpg

cooeycanuckjr004.jpg

cooeycanuckjr006.jpg

cooeycanuckjr007.jpg

cooeycanuckjr010.jpg

cooeycanuckjr011.jpg
 
Nice little gun. Want to sell it?? Probably not. Hehehe. Blue I used is the stuff from Canadian tire. Can't remember the name but it's a brown packaging. I can look it up when I get home. I have had better results than with b. Casey. No idea why.
Cooeys have nice metal to work with. I used wire wheel first then sanded it then buffed. When bluing it took 3 coats. Then oil and buffing with felt buffer wheel.
Cheers.
 
Tried to blue it mnay times and failed everytime.. Just bought some high heat spray and coated the barrel with it..

Just didnt do the bolt itself.. The wifes grandpa must have grinded the bold down for some reason many years ago as its nasty.

The gloss look wore off me quickly..

Wont be doing that again.

Cooey2.jpg

cooey.jpg
 
That's a newer 39(prob says winchester on the plasic butplate). The more squared off design and plastic trigger guard also add up to the same period. The older ones have metal trigger guards and butt plates and the pre 55( have to double check) ones will have blade type screws in them instead of philips.
 
gunsaholic said:
I have reblued a few guns with cold blue and you can get a very nice, shiny finish if you take your time. A very good preparation is the key. However, cold blue is not a long lasting finish and really should be used for touch ups. It would be better to have it hot tanked for lasting results.
However, there is another method that can be done at home and some say it is more dureable than the hot tank method. That is slow rust bluing, the way it was done in the old days. This is the method I am switching to.
Click to expand...

Thats the only method i use now. Very nice home blue.

11b194dc.jpg


ca965ebc.jpg
 
quick question to those who have had multiple cooeys or cooey 600's/ 60's...Should the tube have a "slit/cut" in it that runs down the entire length of it? Mine has one on the side that is close to the barrel. Also i have found that if I tighten my take-down screw up so that when i open and close the bolt the action doesnt move, the bolt then is very stiff and hard to move..From what I can tell when i tighten it up the tube is rubbing on the stock...any help would be greatly appreciated..
Steve
 
Scubasteve21 said:
quick question to those who have had multiple cooeys or cooey 600's/ 60's...Should the tube have a "slit/cut" in it that runs down the entire length of it? Mine has one on the side that is close to the barrel. Also i have found that if I tighten my take-down screw up so that when i open and close the bolt the action doesnt move, the bolt then is very stiff and hard to move..From what I can tell when i tighten it up the tube is rubbing on the stock...any help would be greatly appreciated..
Steve
Click to expand...

Try disassembling the rifle, and then reassembling everything with the stock off. I know what you mean in regards to tightening. One thing that it could be, look inside the stock, are there gouges around where the take down screw thing is? I noticed that if the pin that goes through the tube, holding on the little flipper thing (sorry, don't know the real name, lifter perhaps?) is too long, it can contact the stock and gouge it. That pin really needs to be darn near flush with the lifter thing. However, what I think is the issue is that if you notice, the tube magazine is not really parallel to the barrel, vertically. It angles up slightly, so the feeding block that hooks into the bolt can do it's thing. The result, is that as the mag. tube slides back and forth with the bolt, that angle between the feed block and the receiver changes, ever so slightly. So if you assemble the rifle, and tighten down that take-down screw, what will happen is as you work the action back and forth, the mag tube moves vertially, ever so slightly, due to the changing angle. You might want to tighten up the take down screw while the bolt is back, and see how that changes things.
 
Are you sure the inner nut that locks the tube in place ( the one you have to loosen to remove the bolt, not the outer takedown screw) is not overtightened? They are not supposed to be extremely tight or it bends/binds the tube.
 
gunsaholic said:
Are you sure the inner nut that locks the tube in place ( the one you have to loosen to remove the bolt, not the outer takedown screw) is not overtightene? They are not supposed to be extremely tight or it bends/binds the tube.
Click to expand...

Nope it seams to be fine. Everything looks good. It's just really weird. The only thing that I know could be the problem is the square part that adjusts the tension is loose to the barrel. I hope that makes sense as I just got to work and am replying to this on my phone. :p. also anyone know about the tube crack thing???
 
Is the place where the nut that locks the rod in from where the action attaches to the stock chewed down it the wood? The tube will rub badly then. I believe the tube crack thing may be from it being made from a flat piece of metal that was rolled
 
aaron v said:
Is the place where the nut that locks the rod in from where the action attaches to the stock chewed down it the wood? The tube will rub badly then. I believe the tube crack thing may be from it being made from a flat piece of metal that was rolled
Click to expand...

The wood is very worn out where the nut goes through. The nut might as well not be there.
 
Try grinding a washer down to fit in the worn area to give it more surface area. And also I would tighten up the dove tail that's loose on the barrel or it will keep happening. You could also use wood filler or epoxy to reinforce the stock there again.
 
Hmm....... Maybe reinforce with the epoxy??? And I'm not sure if I can tighten the dove tail. I don't know how to do that. ??? Anyone know what kind of epoxy I should use or maybe some ideas as to how to do it? Should I wrap the action barrel and tube in wax paper and then push it in the stock with the epoxy? Then take it out before it dries??? Any help would be grea. Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom