The GSG 16 modification thread
- Thread starter Danfizz
- Start date
rommelrommel
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
There's nothing to link to. The law doesn't say how to measure OAL or what counts or doesn't count towards it. It's all interpretation and there's no case law I'm aware of where they found a legal NR gun in one piece, took some part off of it, then had a unregistered restricted/prohib, and charged the owner on that basis.
Some people are insistent that a muzzle device doesn't count for OAL even if it does require a tool to remove. It's a who knows area.
Never heard of this.. where did you read about metal GSG housing? Please link
This was a post from ATI the US importer for GSG describing the last import of the 522 back in 2016.
https: //www.ar15.com/forums/armory/The-Last-of-the-GSG-522s/41-459141/
In the article it mentions that the heavy version was metal (discontinued 2012) while the lightweight version was plastic. They re-released the metal version for the last year as a limited edition.
rommelrommel
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
It's pretty clear that how you measure barrel length isn't directly related to how you measure overall length to me, but hey. IRUNGUNS imported some Troy PAR's on which the muzzle device being measured was critical to keeping them NR, and the lab classified them as such.
Hey guys go pipe up on my thread in Dlask forum about making a aluminum rail delete kit. Ive put forth the options that would have a few pic rails to attach an optic and leave the remainder of the rail flat, one with a block so that a true hk site could attach, and any other ideas you might think of. The more guys that pipe up im sure this will come to fruition. I for one would love to get a little more of a solid mounting option than a flimsy plastic rail, and would love to attach a metal hk site as well for back up.
- Location
- Nova Scotia
SO basically what Drop the Bomb is working on?
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Soon to be ABS. But still the weak point in the OEM mount is the 2 brass inserts that sandwich between the 2 halves. Unless someone copying DTB delete method of securing, and trying to make money from it.
Because I brought it up to him back in July, to add a rail to his.
DropTheBomb
Member
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta
Pretty much what ive been working on, seems to have survived stress test with PLA. ABS Prototypes are so far being finnicky, but i think its more so from needed printer calibrations.
Been working on the idea of utilizing one of the brass inserts for extra stability. Even with it being plastic its far more rigid than the stock rail since its not hollow. Even some users ive seen here fill in their stock rails with JB Weld and that helped.
Progress has been slow since life got busy but its coming!!
Pretty much what ive been working on, seems to have survived stress test with PLA. ABS Prototypes are so far being finnicky, but i think its more so from needed printer calibrations.
Been working on the idea of utilizing one of the brass inserts for extra stability. Even with it being plastic its far more rigid than the stock rail since its not hollow. Even some users ive seen here fill in their stock rails with JB Weld and that helped.
Progress has been slow since life got busy but its coming!!
Looks great can’t wait for the final version! I have two of your rail delete’s with sight block that I haven’t installed because I figure I’ll
just wait for this version and avoid using the cheap claw mount for my red dot.
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I got like nickel groups at 25m with the 16.5" barrel. Good enough for what the gun is.
The long, creepy trigger is probably the biggest obstacle to accurate shooting offhand. From a rest that's not such a problem, but this isn't the sort of gun one generally shoots from a rest, more of a casual plinker. Hence my decision to shorten the trigger pre-travel, making for much better clarity as to just when the trigger goes off. The barrel itself seems inherently quite accurate. Maybe not quite as good as a decent 10/22, but not far off.
And as I posted a couple of pages back, adding a round-head bolt to the upper front of the trigger to limit initial travel has made a huge improvement in the feel of shooting my GSG-16. Almost eliminates my 'thinking' about trigger pull as I shoot, as it's just moving a few millimetres before it breaks, so accuracy is improved. Drilling and tapping for a 10-32 thread wasn't difficult and a bit of blue Loc-Tite prevents the bolt from moving once adjusted to the correct height.
Here is another thread with photos showing how do do a trigger job on the 522.
https ://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Make_it_25_rds_and_a_TRIGGER_JOB_/41-300794/
They show how to weld a portion of the trigger pack to reduce trigger throw, definitely more work than the method above but would work as well
https ://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Make_it_25_rds_and_a_TRIGGER_JOB_/41-300794/
They show how to weld a portion of the trigger pack to reduce trigger throw, definitely more work than the method above but would work as well
