"The legendary 1911 idiot scratch'
- Thread starter gravel
- Start date
Drag marks on the cylinder of a revolver are also not good, it means the timing was/is off, this has more to do with function rather than looks.
I was fortunate because I had heard of the "idiot mark" long before getting a 1911 and so far I have avoided ruining a perfectly good gun.
I have a 1911 that I bought complete with a huge idiot mark, it shoots great so I don't worry about it.
I was fortunate because I had heard of the "idiot mark" long before getting a 1911 and so far I have avoided ruining a perfectly good gun.
I have a 1911 that I bought complete with a huge idiot mark, it shoots great so I don't worry about it.
To me it depends on how bad it is--a light scratch a half centimetre long just below the slide stop is no big deal to me. However, a deep scratch to the bare metal arcing from just behind the trigger to the slide stop (like some I've seen on the EE) is probably a deal killer.
I don't like takedown scratches on 1911s, so I don't buy ones that have them. Lots of 1911s out there, and I need but a few, so most of mine I've bought new anyway.
I'd like to see how anyone prevents a drag line on a double action revolver, though, considering the bolt drops against the cylinder and rides against it between chambers. The more one is used, the deeper the drag line gets. I grease the notches and bolts on mine, and perhaps that helps a little with the bare metal contact.
It's much more preventable on a single action, where the bolt doesn't drop until after half ####. So long as you never turn the cylinder by hand in any position but half ####, you don't get the pronounced drag lines.
I'd like to see how anyone prevents a drag line on a double action revolver, though, considering the bolt drops against the cylinder and rides against it between chambers. The more one is used, the deeper the drag line gets. I grease the notches and bolts on mine, and perhaps that helps a little with the bare metal contact.
It's much more preventable on a single action, where the bolt doesn't drop until after half ####. So long as you never turn the cylinder by hand in any position but half ####, you don't get the pronounced drag lines.
First thing I do is check out the price. If it's good, I'll look at the gun. If it has the scratch, then that's a deal breaker.
Unless it's a Ruger Vaquero. They all peen the cylinder.
Unless it's a Ruger Vaquero. They all peen the cylinder.
saskgunowner101
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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I've owned a few 1911's, and put the idiot scratch on the first one. It wasn't too bad, but still noticeable....sold it about $40 less than I would have otherwise (Norc 1911). It's the first thing I look for when I see a 1911 for sale.
My Blackhawks are relatively clean, still. Contrast with my GP100 which came brand new with an obvious turn line around the whole cylinder. I thought it was used, for a second!
Stainless revolvers seem to be the way to go to lessen the cosmetic hit.
Part of the problem with the marked 1911's is they are invariably listed as "NIB only 50 rounds fired!" and priced 50 bucks off retail LOL.
Personally, on a "new" series 1911 [Kimber, S&W, Ruger etc] the idiot scratch is just that, an idiot scratch. Usually a deal killer for me considering a purchase.
You will virtually never encounter a vintage 1911/1911A1, and especially a USGI or other military issued/carried one, that does not have the idiot scratch.
In fact I will throw out there, if you own an original condition/finish vintage Colt 1911 or Government model that was military issue or "carry" without the idiot scratch it never saw combat, likely never left a foot locker after issue. The ironic thing on those is "condition" usually always dictates "value" especially on the vintage pieces.
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NAA.
You will virtually never encounter a vintage 1911/1911A1, and especially a USGI or other military issued/carried one, that does not have the idiot scratch.
In fact I will throw out there, if you own an original condition/finish vintage Colt 1911 or Government model that was military issue or "carry" without the idiot scratch it never saw combat, likely never left a foot locker after issue. The ironic thing on those is "condition" usually always dictates "value" especially on the vintage pieces.
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NAA.
I just capture the link with the slide stop dangling in the trigger guard, line up the slide, back the stop out some, then drop it into place..
If it doesn't snap right in, like my Trojan wouldn't, I find where it's binding (like a mould line or roughness in the finish) and give that bit of the stop a touch of a fine diamond burr in the Dremel.
I've never scratched any 1911, going back to the first one that I ever stripped. It fair boggles seeing new made pistols with gouges on them. I can't fathom it.
Actually for the most expensive 1911 that I own, the Trojan is a disappointment in the lack of attention towards fitting of some of the small parts. And I've a spartan with a shard of metal dangling under the rear sight that was never filed off. Between that and the low grade finishes I won't be buying STI again...
If it doesn't snap right in, like my Trojan wouldn't, I find where it's binding (like a mould line or roughness in the finish) and give that bit of the stop a touch of a fine diamond burr in the Dremel.
I've never scratched any 1911, going back to the first one that I ever stripped. It fair boggles seeing new made pistols with gouges on them. I can't fathom it.
Actually for the most expensive 1911 that I own, the Trojan is a disappointment in the lack of attention towards fitting of some of the small parts. And I've a spartan with a shard of metal dangling under the rear sight that was never filed off. Between that and the low grade finishes I won't be buying STI again...
I've had eleven 1911's, over the years, and have only put an idiot scratch on one, a very faint scratch.
It's on a Spartan, and when it sells, it will be deducted by 50 bucks.
I was told minimum 500.00 less for an idiot sratch on a 1911... JP.
I was told minimum 500.00 less for an idiot sratch on a 1911... JP.
If you're in the market for a Spartan, maybe we can make a deal.
I was going to ask 1500 bucks for it on E.E, so minus $500 for the scratch, it'll come out to an even grand.
I hear they are no longer producing them anymore, so they're a collector's item.
