Please remember that all components of real Garands were made to known dimensions from precisely specified wood and metal with the associated hardness and heat treating specifications. I wouldn't attempt to include any part of this in a rifle that was to be fired, except maybe the buttplate if it fit. Clint Eastwood used one of these replicas in his "get of my lawn scene" and it worked for him. I believe that some were also used in Saving Pvt Ryan, but that's Hollywood for you.
The M1 Garand Build Thread
- Thread starter Don Kael
- Start date
I sincerely doubt it - looks like they're cast pot metal. Even if the parts fit, they aren't meant to work, and tolerances will be non-existent. If they used original parts then maybe, but I can't think why they'd be dropping the cash on parts when they can just mass produce cheap parts.
Still haven't got mine (5week +)
It's held by the CBSA. I got a notice to call them. (great...)
Barrel has been opened at custums, same with numrich trigger assembly. No problem for either.
Here's a picture of my Numrich PB Trigger assembly. Internals all look new, but the housing itself is a bit trashed. (will most likely refinish it)
As I said earlier, my Numrich parts (op rod too) were all great EXCEPT the "VG-Excellent trigger group" they sent me that turned out to be a heavily pitted POS. Back it went, waiting for a replacement to get here someday.
As an aside, I've started inletting my Boyd's stock set to my barrelled action (yes, the 7.62 NATO Criterion bbl is installed). WOW - Boyd's out-of-box quality has treacly gone down since the last time I ordered from them.
1) rear hanguard is un-usable. It's inlet too deeply below the retainer clip, so it just slops around on the barrel, made worse by it being inlet too generously where it fits over the barrel. Not really fixable unless I bed the clip, which I'm not going to do. In the kindling box it goes, ordered a NOS walnut GI handguard off the net.
2) The front HG was WAY too fat everywhere, but after a LOT of sanding, it's down to GI dimensions and looks like it will be OK.
3) Buttstock was inlet crooked at the action legs, so the barrel was way over by an inch at the front of the stock. Luckily it was also way way way too tight at the legs, so I was able to correct it when I opened up the inletting. It's now centred. Next, the ferrule tenon was milled too high on the stock, so there was no downward pressure between the ferrule and the handguard retainer. I re-inletted the ferrule lower to recover the necessary minimum tension and eliminate the prod from rubbing on the ferrule. The prod was also heavily binding at the handle slot ledge and in the stock channel, neither of which was inletted far enough down. Now fixed by scraping those surfaces with the spokeshave and then filing flat. The buttplate tenon was left too proud and had to be filed at the toe so the buttplate would seat. Stock way fatted than even a post-war birch stock up by the ferrule, but skinny like a WW2 stock from the magazine well and aft. After a lot of wood removal forward of the magazine, it now is pretty close to WW2 dimensions.
Anyone who thinks the Boyd's product is a drop-in fit either doesn't understand what should or should not bear on the wood and buttstock ferrule, or they got a LOT luckier than I am wrt fit
But then, this ain't my first rodeo...
As an aside, I've started inletting my Boyd's stock set to my barrelled action (yes, the 7.62 NATO Criterion bbl is installed). WOW - Boyd's out-of-box quality has treacly gone down since the last time I ordered from them.
1) rear hanguard is un-usable. It's inlet too deeply below the retainer clip, so it just slops around on the barrel, made worse by it being inlet too generously where it fits over the barrel. Not really fixable unless I bed the clip, which I'm not going to do. In the kindling box it goes, ordered a NOS walnut GI handguard off the net.
2) The front HG was WAY too fat everywhere, but after a LOT of sanding, it's down to GI dimensions and looks like it will be OK.
3) Buttstock was inlet crooked at the action legs, so the barrel was way over by an inch at the front of the stock. Luckily it was also way way way too tight at the legs, so I was able to correct it when I opened up the inletting. It's now centred. Next, the ferrule tenon was milled too high on the stock, so there was no downward pressure between the ferrule and the handguard retainer. I re-inletted the ferrule lower to recover the necessary minimum tension and eliminate the prod from rubbing on the ferrule. The prod was also heavily binding at the handle slot ledge and in the stock channel, neither of which was inletted far enough down. Now fixed by scraping those surfaces with the spokeshave and then filing flat. The buttplate tenon was left too proud and had to be filed at the toe so the buttplate would seat. Stock way fatted than even a post-war birch stock up by the ferrule, but skinny like a WW2 stock from the magazine well and aft. After a lot of wood removal forward of the magazine, it now is pretty close to WW2 dimensions.
Anyone who thinks the Boyd's product is a drop-in fit either doesn't understand what should or should not bear on the wood and buttstock ferrule, or they got a LOT luckier than I am wrt fit
But then, this ain't my first rodeo...
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I've managed to pick up a few small items for my build but I am wondering where the best place to get a barrel is at the moment. I've seen Numrich has the 308's @ 169.99 but I doubt that will come through without an issue. I tried to call Numrich about it but they just told me "I don't know" and that was it haha.
I was also eyeballing one of the WWII stocks appearing on eBay right now but the things look rough.. I doubt it matters which way I go, they will probably both require severe fitting if not bedding.(options being used and new)
EDIT:
Stupid followup. I ordered a numrich Trigger Housing Assembly as well but I was wondering what part numbers I can strike off of the garand schema. (I know it says 32A but it the image looks to include the internals)
I was also eyeballing one of the WWII stocks appearing on eBay right now but the things look rough.. I doubt it matters which way I go, they will probably both require severe fitting if not bedding.(options being used and new)
EDIT:
Stupid followup. I ordered a numrich Trigger Housing Assembly as well but I was wondering what part numbers I can strike off of the garand schema. (I know it says 32A but it the image looks to include the internals)
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The Boyds stocks and handgds have been of variable quality. I don't understand why they can't get some consistency into this. The interior inletting of the front handgds has been a problem with the inletting being too deep to seat the rear tabs of the handgd liner on the corresponding wooden flats. I always plan to spend a lot of time to get the rear handgds to fit properly.
You can write pages on how to inlet and fit a Garand stock properly, but here are just a few things to keep in mind;
-you can remove wood easily, but can't put it back, so go slow
-one key area to help get the proper tension is to get some daylight showing between the top of the stock and the bottom of the receiver in the area in front of the rear sight. This needs to be done on a trial fit basis after the stock ferrule has been installed
-if the trigger housing lockup is too tight DO NOT remove wood from the top of the stock to make it fit. You can judiciously remove a bit of wood from the flats on either side of the mag well where the inner surface of the trigger housing is seated. Alternatively, use a trigger guard with worn locking lugs which will reduce the tension here. The round lugs are subject to wear which leads to a looser clamping action when the guard is closed. These lugs should be lubed with a bit of grease to minimize wear.
-if trigger guard lockup is too loose, even when using a guard with full round lugs, you can tighten up the fit by gluing wooden strips on the 2 edges where the floorplate of the trigger housing is seated. Another option is to cut thin strips from a piece of magnetized fridge stickers and put them on the metal ribs on both sides of the floorplate.
- if the rear handgd makes hard contact with the top surface of the stock, sand wood off the handgd to get some clearance. Do not sand the top of the stock.
You can write pages on how to inlet and fit a Garand stock properly, but here are just a few things to keep in mind;
-you can remove wood easily, but can't put it back, so go slow
-one key area to help get the proper tension is to get some daylight showing between the top of the stock and the bottom of the receiver in the area in front of the rear sight. This needs to be done on a trial fit basis after the stock ferrule has been installed
-if the trigger housing lockup is too tight DO NOT remove wood from the top of the stock to make it fit. You can judiciously remove a bit of wood from the flats on either side of the mag well where the inner surface of the trigger housing is seated. Alternatively, use a trigger guard with worn locking lugs which will reduce the tension here. The round lugs are subject to wear which leads to a looser clamping action when the guard is closed. These lugs should be lubed with a bit of grease to minimize wear.
-if trigger guard lockup is too loose, even when using a guard with full round lugs, you can tighten up the fit by gluing wooden strips on the 2 edges where the floorplate of the trigger housing is seated. Another option is to cut thin strips from a piece of magnetized fridge stickers and put them on the metal ribs on both sides of the floorplate.
- if the rear handgd makes hard contact with the top surface of the stock, sand wood off the handgd to get some clearance. Do not sand the top of the stock.
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- Location
- Southern Ontario
As an aside, I've started inletting my Boyd's stock set to my barrelled action (yes, the 7.62 NATO Criterion bbl is installed). WOW - Boyd's out-of-box quality has treacly gone down since the last time I ordered from them.
the net. .......
2) The front HG was WAY too fat everywhere, but after a LOT of sanding, it's down to GI dimensions and looks like it will be OK.
..... After a lot of wood removal forward of the magazine, it now is pretty close to WW2 dimensions.
Anyone who thinks the Boyd's product is a drop-in fit either doesn't understand what should or should not bear on the wood and buttstock ferrule, or they got a LOT luckier than I am wrt fit
But then, this ain't my first rodeo...
Where did you find out GI dimensions for the stock pieces? Is there a dimensioned dwg somewhere for download?
Excuse my Garand newbness, this is my first round of M1 parts collection for my first attempted parts-build project. Getting a decent collection so far, but not even started on getting the wood pieces yet.
I ordered a bolt and barrel from Constantine; the bolt took only about 10 days to arrive and the barrel is in transit as I just ordered it Monday. An NOS barrel and bolt will be nice features of this rifle build. as PB parts are harder to find and more costly, I'm going to make this all Springfield except for the receiver and stock.
Just got a schwack of parts in from numrich. Mixed trigger assy (bmr and sa mostly) is n good shape except a few scratches on the trigger guard. Stock metal is fantastic. Op rod is so so but good on the measurement .526. Only issues were a front sight beat to snot and the gas cylinder seems to have had the threads for the plug reamed out so the plug can't screw in.
Also bought the numrich made replacement stock set. Looks nice. Tigger group is about 1/16" from locking up and the butt late needs some fitting but seems minor. Dunno about op rod and barrel fit yet.
Still waiting for my bolt from Constantine and some guts from Marstar.
Also bought the numrich made replacement stock set. Looks nice. Tigger group is about 1/16" from locking up and the butt late needs some fitting but seems minor. Dunno about op rod and barrel fit yet.
Still waiting for my bolt from Constantine and some guts from Marstar.
